Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Coen and No Country for Old Men

AdventureMan and I watched No Country for Old Men last night, and oh! it held us on the edge of our chairs. At the end, we ran for the phone to call our son and ask “Whoa! What happened??”

In short, we loved the movie (and I can hardly wait to read the book, although Cormac McCarthy goes a lot darker than I care to go). The Coen brothers also go darker than I care to go, but we find ourselves drawn to their movies because there is so much thought put into them, so many references to other genres, other films, and because the characters are so true to life. We first met them in Fargo, a movie we pull out and watch again from year to year – that’s a rare movie. We love the characters, even the bad guys are so human.

It’s the same in No Country for Old Men. Set in the desolation of West Texas, there are whole minutes when you listen to the wind whistling in the desert as the hero hikes down to a drug-exchange-gone-bad.

There is a good guy, a sherif played by craggy-faced Tommy Lee Jones, and an ordinary guy who finds a whole lot of money, and we really want him to get away with it, and then there is a really really bad guy, who is also smart, and . . . well, something inside of him is just bent. He’s not right. The Coen’s have a way of making him both appalling and just a guy doing his job very well. It’s not personal, but we wish he wouldn’t enjoy inflicting harm so much.

What I love about the Coen films is that they can capture the essence of a character so sparely, with just a few words, a few lines. There is a trailer park manager who refuses to give the very very bad guy an address. You hold your breath; she could get blown away, she doesn’t know it. She holds firm. In another scene, an older woman tells a Mexican man who has just helped her “You don’t see too many Mexicans in suits.” So so so politically incorrect, and so ordinarily normal, the plain-spokeness of the elderly. The Coen’s capture the West Texas-ness which permeates the film.

This movie is worth watching again.

May 4, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Crime, Cross Cultural, Entertainment, Interconnected, Language, Living Conditions, Poetry/Literature, Relationships | 9 Comments

Warden Message and More

Fresh in the mailbox from the Embassy comes this warning:

Embassy of the United States of America
Kuwait City, Kuwait
May 4, 2008

MEMORANDUM

To: All American Wardens

From: Consular Section

Subject: Warden Notice 2008 – 9

Please circulate the following message without additions or omissions
immediately to all American citizens within your area of responsibility.

Begin text.

The Minister of Interior, Sheikh Jaber Khaled Al-Sabah, has issued a Ministerial
decree that prohibits drivers in Kuwait from using a cellular phone while
driving a vehicle. This decree (number 76/81) is intended to keep drivers in
Kuwait focused on driving and not talking on a cellular phone. This decree is
consistent with what is going on in our own country in many states that are
enacting laws prohibiting cellular phone use while driving.

This decree goes into effect on May 1, 2008. As a practical matter, drivers
should not be talking on cellular phones while driving at any time. They should
find a safe place to pull over and stop their vehicles before talking on the
cellular phone. Keep in mind this new decree is an amendment to a previous law
already in effect that includes eating or drinking while driving a vehicle an
offense in Kuwait.

You should expect some increased vigilance on the roads by police in the coming
weeks to enforce this decree. Our information from MOI is the fine for use of a
cellular phone while driving will be 15KD.

Comments: There is already a law in effect that bans eating and drinking while driving??? Who knew?

Waaaaaayyyyy back in February, a chart started circulating, said to be a fraud, that pretty accurately defined the new laws in effect 1 May. Looking at it now, I am betting it is a list of new laws that went into effect in JORDAN, and Kuwait used it as a template for changes in Kuwait. I know new traffic laws – very similar – went into effect in Syria on May 1st.

I can’t help wondering how all this came about, but most of all, for your protection and mine, I am thankful for these new laws and the commitment on the part of the government to enforce these laws equally, across the board. The statement we keep hearing is “no one is above the law.” Wooo Hooo, Kuwait!

The only funny thing is – the chart I have seen most often in Kuwait says the fine is KD 50 for driving while on a cell phone. This message says KD 15. The announcement in the paper said KD 5. If anyone out there has been charged for taking on a cell phone while driving, will you let us know what the real fine is?

Is the ban being enforced equally against all drivers? The Kuwait Times says 200 people were charged on the first day of enforcement.

May 4, 2008 Posted by | Community, Crime, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions | , , , , | 3 Comments

Pyramid Mosque and Gulf Road

My friend and I were driving by this mosque when she sighed.

“We used to think this mosque was huge,” she said. “You could see it from far away. Slowly, slowly, it just disappeared.”

The mosque is now surrounded by tall buildings, and, indeed, if it weren’t for it’s unusual shape, you might barely notice it across from the Holiday Inn, while driving on Gulf road. There are all kinds of buildings along Gulf road, apartments, hospitals, office buildings. They are doing amazing things, twisting glass and concrete spires up into the heavens. The pyramid mosque is dwarfed by these towering buildings.

We also saw these amazing signs along Gulf Road:

If there were one or two, I would not have taken a photo, but there are like EIGHT of these, four on each side of the road, and a lot of flashing lights. I checked the red sign – remember my Arabic is basic – and I could see two “mamnuas” (forbidden) but I didn’t see “foto” or “suraa” so if it says “no photos” will someone please tell me right away so I can take this photo out?

May 4, 2008 Posted by | Building, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Uncategorized | | 5 Comments

Sunrise and Splotches

It’s a teeny bit hazy this morning, but the sun rose bright over the water, there is just a tiny bit of ripple on the otherwise glassy surface of the Gulf (cleverly sidestepping whether it is the “Arabian” Gulf or the “Persian” Gulf).

It is a mere 86°F / 30°C at 0730 and not expected to break 100°F.

Yesterday, AdventureMan and I had a late lunch, noticing as we entered and left the restaurant how beautiful the weather is – even though it is hotting up, it was comfortable enough outside, still bearable, even enjoyable. Not for much longer (sigh!)

Until I can get my rain-splotched windows cleaned, I will have the splotches you see . . . I can’t open the windows to shoot out for fear the Qatteri Cat will jump out!

May 4, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Family Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Pets, sunrise series, Weather | 2 Comments