Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

The Majliss in Doha

When we lived in Doha the last time, we often brought people to The Majliss. Most Americans had never been there, never knew it was there. It is off Al Sadd – if you are going from C Ring to D Ring, you turn right at the Kentucky Fried Chicken and stay on the slip road that goes in front of the stores. At the second possible right, you turn right, and you will see the Royal Tandoor on your left, and The Majliss on your right.

There two really great things about The Majliss. First, the food is really, really good. Second, they have a bunch of individual rooms where you can sit on the floor, majliss style, with cushions and a big, low table. Some rooms are small, some are large enough for maybe 12 – 14 people.

They also have booths, some that have curtains you can pull if you need privacy, like if you are a woman wearing niqab and you want to eat without people seeing your face. They also have booths without curtains, and a more open area where mostly just men eat.

There was a time when soldiers would come here from Iraq, and you could sort of check them out like library books to take out for dinner, or to the malls, or to your house. We often took them to the Majliss, and it always blew them away, it was such a great experience. The Majliss is also where we took our son and his wife when they first came to visit us in Doha. We have so many happy memories at The Majliss.

This time, it was our visiting Kuwait friends, and since we all know what it is like to sit in a Majliss, and we all have older knees and hips, we chose to sit in a booth. Here is what is cool – our Kuwait friends loved it as much as our American friends do.

This was our first time back at the Majliss since our return to Doha. We worried that it had changed, deteriorated, that the food would not be so good as we remembered. We had a happy surprise – it is the same, but even better. 🙂

00MajlessEntry

00MajlessTraditional

00MajlissBooth

I have to admit, one reason I love the Majliss is because they have Mohammara, made of walnuts and chilis and other good stuff. This one was really good, a little spicy!

00MajlissMezze

And oh, the fresh, hot bread . . .

00MajlissBread

Now, I am embarrassed to tell you, when our main dinners came, I forgot to take photos until late . . . so this is where the delicious Majliss hammour used to be – my very particular and discerning Kuwaiti friend ate every bite!

00MajlessWasHammour

And here is what is left of my Shrimp machboos, before we gobbled the rest of it all up:

00MajlissShrimpMachboos

And the kabob, just before it disappeared entirely!

00MajlessKebob

We were all so full, we didn’t even have room to order the creme caramel, which always comes swimming in caramel, yummmm. We had Turkish coffee and rolled ourselves out the door – stuffed!

Prices are reasonable, it is a great place for good local food at reasonable prices – the Michelin red “R” in Doha.

The Majliss

October 16, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Cultural, Doha, Eating Out, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Food, Living Conditions, Photos, Qatar | 1 Comment

Suq al Waqif Bird Market

As we were heading into the Suq al Waqif for breakfast Saturday morning (Yes! Several of the restaurants are open for breakfast!) we saw a man and his son, both carrying falcons.

00SatSuqAlWaqif

AdventureMan joked that they are hired by the administrators to walk around adding local color. We scoffed. Maybe someday, but for right now, these are still real people, with their own falcons. We know because our Kuwaiti visitor stopped them and asked about the falcons. They were so sweet and so delighted to tell us about their birds, and to allow us to photograph them:

00Falcon

There was also a lively bird auction going on:

00BirdMarket

What we love about the renovated market is that it is still a true market, where real people by daily items for use.

October 15, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Cultural, Doha, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Photos, Qatar, Shopping, Social Issues | , | Leave a comment

More Jewels from the Doha Museum of Islamic Art

More guests, and another trip to the Doha Museum of Islamic Art. I never tire of the place. Most of all, when I walk in, I just take a deep breath, breathe in the serenity.

00IsArts1

It doesn’t hurt that there is also a wonderful, clean ladies room.

Every time we are there, we see something new and wonderful, something that was there, but we hadn’t noticed before. Here are some things I saw this time:

00IsArts2

00IsArts3Tessalations

00IsArtsFirebird

00IsArtsRubies

00IsArtsWarMask

October 15, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Customer Service, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Public Art, Qatar | 4 Comments

Farewell Dar al Thaqafa

We were sitting in a meeting when two friends rushed in, full of news of the fire down at the Souk al Diraa / Souk al Asseiri, familiarly known as The Fabric Souks. Our friend’s car had been near where the blaze broke out and they had been stuck while the firemen refused to allow her near her car, and finally they moved it out of the way for her, covered with ash and dirty water, but otherwise unharmed.

We all waited breathlessly to hear if the fabric souks were harmed. They weren’t. For such a big blaze, such a long-lasting fire, no lives were lost, no one was hurt, as far as anyone knows.

But in this morning’s paper, I see that while the fire started out a small fire, somehow, it was not contained, and in the clutter and chaos of the older souks, it grew, fed by stacks of stored goods and rubbish.

One of the victims was an old friend of mine – the Dar al Thaqafa. Little Diamond and I would often find treasures there, books you couldn’t find anywhere else. There are other bookstores in this chain, but this one, this Dar al Thaqafa was THE oldest bookstore in Doha, stocking school supplies, children and adult fiction and non-fiction, textbooks and obscure Islamic scholarly works. It was a quiet place, an old fashioned book-store, tucked behind the very tacky toy vender where I once bought both a dancing Osama bin Laden and a dancing Saddam Hussein.

We are sorry to see this old friend go. (They gave me permission to take these photos)

00DiraaDar

00DiraaDar2

00DiraaDar3

00DiraaDar4

00DiraaDar5

00DiraaDar6

The area was full of small merchants, most of whom I suspect could ill-afford this loss of merchandise and income. I took a photo of an alleyway in the area of the fire (taken in July)

00DiraaAlley

October 14, 2009 Posted by | Books, Building, Bureaucracy, Community, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Living Conditions, Safety, Shopping, Social Issues | 5 Comments

Grossing out the World

I admit it. I failed. I only got 5 out of 11. See how you can do:

http://www.fekids.com/img/kln/flash/DontGrossOutTheWorld.swf Dining Out in the World

Tests your knowledge of eating etiquette around the world. 🙂

October 14, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Civility, Humor | 5 Comments

Home Foreclosures: The Storm That’s Yet to Come

This is just an excerpt from a much longer article I found on the AOL Money and Finance Site which you can access to read the entire article, and find others like it, by clicking on the blue type.

Experts are saying that there is a turn-around. I believe it, I also see the improving signs, but the wreckage will remain, and may even get worse, for some time to come in the real-estate markets.

Home foreclosures move up-market as discounting pushes prices down
Lita Epstein

A greater number of foreclosures are hitting the high-end real estate markets in 2009 as price discounting continues to throw more and more properties underwater. It’s like a self-fulfilling prophecy: As some homeowners see their homes’ values drop below the balances due on their mortgages, they give up trying to save their homes.

Zillow’s chief economist, Stan Humphries, found that while high-end markets accounted for only 16 percent of foreclosures in 2006, by July 2009, 30 percent of foreclosures hit the top third of homes. “That means that top-tier homes make up almost twice the proportion of foreclosures as they did just three years ago,” Humphries wrote on his blog.

Foreclosures are no longer a primarily subprime problem. While in 2006 about 55 percent of foreclosures came on subprime loans, in 2009 subprimes represent just 35 percent of foreclosures, another 35 percent are in the middle tier and 30 percent are in the top tier. The primary contributing factor is higher delinquency rates in Prime, Alt-A and Option ARM mortgage products.

According to the Amherst Security Group, this problem won’t go away any time soon, because:

• Loans are transitioning into delinquency/foreclosure at a rapid pace, but moving out at a slow pace;

• Cure rates are low. In other words, fewer people are paying their past-due amounts and getting back on track.

• Loans are taking longer to liquidate. In other words, the length of time between the start of the foreclosure process and the point when the lender gets control of the property is growing.

The Amherst Mortgage Insight report notes that there are currently 7 million homes in a shadow market — homes that are either in delinquency or in foreclosure, but not yet on the market. This number translates into 135 percent of a year of existing home sales, which means that whatever numbers you’re seeing now about homes sales, they don’t truly reflect the storm that’s yet to come.

October 14, 2009 Posted by | Building, Bureaucracy, Community, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Living Conditions | 2 Comments

Shifting Weather Patterns

Temp14Oct09

Last week, we had our first days under 100°F/38°C.

Last night, AdventureMan shivered and moved close to me.

“I’m cold” he said pitifully, putting his cold feet up against me.

It’s OK. I’m used to it. He is often cold, and I radiate heat. We pile the covers up on him and I sleep with just a sheet. I can’t sleep if I am too hot.

“There’s another quilt out on the loveseat” I tell him, referring to a piece of furniture about twenty steps away.

“Will you go get it for me?” he asked, his voice quavering.

We’ve been married a long time. I’m on to his tricks.

“No,” I laughed, “If you want another blanket, you have to go get it.”

“I don’t want to leave the bed,” he complained, and snuggled closely to me to absorb my heat.

This morning, at 0700, it is not even 80°F. Wooo HOOOOOO! There is still some humidity, but the afternoons are balmy, and there are evenings you can sit outside and drink coffee. Wooo HOOOO, my favorite season – Outside Season!

October 14, 2009 Posted by | Doha, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Humor, Living Conditions, Marriage, Qatar, Relationships, Weather | Leave a comment

Too Much Food

AdventureMan and I have lived more years outside our own country than inside it. We have lived on-and-off in the Middle East for more than 30 years. You’d think we would know everything by now, but we are still delighted to discover new things and to learn from the culture in which we are living.

Our Kuwaiti friends were good about letting us peek inside the culture, telling us stories of family life “before oil” and Kuwait traditions. Like women aren’t supposed to eat too much when they to to someone’s house for dinner or the people will say “do you think she has never seen food before?”

On the other hand, it is shameful not to provide enough food, so you always prepare way more than the group invited can possibly eat, like in ten years.

Sometimes a lot of the food goes to waste, but I have also discovered these wonderful plastic bags and tin trays found in every supermarket in the Middle East. What doesn’t get eaten now – gets eaten. I admit it, I am a lazy wife. I don’t like cooking big meals when it is just the two of us, so I love being able to pull something out of the freezer and have it all heated up and fresh for dinner.

00LeftoversTaco

00LeftOversChicken

It also makes me feel very ecological to have food in the freezer, ready to fix, and to know that not a lot went to waste. We are learning from our son and his sweet wife, and all the young adults in our family, who are WAY more ecologically aware than we ever were, and we thought we were pretty good, the generation who invented recycling.

AdventureMan used to bring home people for dinner, mostly guys from out of town in town for a short time who needed a home-cooked meal. We always had food in the freezer, something I could pull out on short notice.

One time, I made beef burgundy. When I went to serve it, I looked for the cheesecloth bundle of spices and couldn’t find it. I looked and looked, and then I figured I must have taken it out earlier and forgot I’d done it. Then, during dinner, one of the men had a very puzzled look on his face – he was chewing on the spices ball! I was SO embarrassed, but they all just laughed, thank God.

October 13, 2009 Posted by | Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Food, Friends & Friendship, Generational, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 9 Comments

Fruit Crisps – Desserts (English: Crumbles)

There are two reasons to make fruit crisps. One, there is no better way to let ripe fruit star, take center stage, just when it hits its peak. Second – oh, it is SO easy.

Here is the original recipe I use:

Apple Crisp

From Mary Cullen’s Northwest Cook Book, 1946

Crisps are wonderful when made with fresh fruit, and not so much trouble as a pie requiring crusts. Here, the topping is delicious, and easy.

5 cups apples
1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar
3/4 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon or nutmeg

Peel, core and slice apples and place in a greased baking dish or cassarole. Using a pastry blender, work together the butter, sugar, salt, flour and spices. Pack closely around apples. Bake in 425 degree oven for 45 – 50 minutes. Serve with whipped cream.

Berry Crisp

Substitute berries for apples. If berries are very tart, sprinkle with 1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 cup flour before covering with crumb mixture.

Rhubarb Crisp

Use diced rhubarb in place of apples. Mix 1/2 to 1 cup sugar and 1/2 cup flour with rhubarb before placing in baking dish.

This time I made peach crisp:

You put the fruit in a buttered pie / tart plate:
00PeachCrisp1

You sprinkle the topping on, pat it down, and bake. Yes, it is that easy.
00PeachCrisp2

No, no end photo, sorry. It disappeared too quickly!

(In the Pacific Northwest, these are called Crisps. My English friend tells me that in England, they are called Crumbles.) So Easy.

October 13, 2009 Posted by | Cooking, Cross Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Food, Recipes | 2 Comments

Crab Cakes in Doha

We wanted to have a light dinner at home to welcome our house guests, and then take them on a night-tour of Doha. I remembered the wonderful Crab Cakes my friend and her daughter made in Seattle, and I was determined to have . . . well, I knew it wouldn’t be the same, but something LIKE those crab cakes.

So I found the best crab I could buy in Doha, and made up the crab cakes. Wrong crab. Wrong breading – I couldn’t find any panko (I know there is panko in Doha, I just know it, but I couldn’t find it when I was looking for it!) so I whirled up some lime Tostito chips in the food processor and used those.

They were actually pretty good, when I first made them. Not the same, not Pacific Northwest Dungeness Crab, but not bad.

This is four cans of crab meat – you can find the recipe for Crab Cakes by clicking on the blue type; I already printed it back in August or September.

00CrabCakes1

The crushed tostitos weren’t bad for breading, but you only use a little, on the outside, to help them firm up for cooking:

00CrabCakes2

I served them with Plum Sauce, which also wasn’t as good as the fresh home-made plum sauce my friend’s daughter made:

00PlumSauce

They were OK. If I didn’t know what Pacific Northwest Crab tasted like, fresh out of the ocean and steamed right away, I probably would have thought they were pretty good. I’m not going to make them again here.

October 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Cooking, Doha, ExPat Life, Experiment, Food, Qatar, Recipes | 8 Comments