British Isles: We Transfer to the Viking Jupiter
Morning came too early, the bag handlers must have started with our room! Promptly at six, the bell rang and AdventureMan had to struggle out of bed to let them in. Fortunately we were able to get back to sleep, and slept until our alarm went off. We headed down to breakfast – no room for us! We had to wait for a table, about twenty minutes, and we had not factored that in. By the time we finished, we barely had time to rush back to our room, gather our carry-ons, and head down to the hotel lobby where we were just in time. As AdventureMan checked out, our group was called. I was one of the first to board the bus and headed to a seat halfway back where we like to sit for the unimpeded view. Just behind me another couple, who as they sat behind us said a little sourly “you got our favorite seat.” Oooh kay. AdventureMan found me, and we had an hour long ride to Tilbury, not Greenwich, where the fun began.
First, we have great admiration for and understanding of the logistics involved in last minute changes, so the awkwardness of the explanations and arrangements were not surprising, but the London Cruise Port was not ready to board a few hundred people. Our buses were stacked up, and after the one hour drive, we sat another hour on the bus. Some of the passengers got testy and argumentative, and finally they let a lucky few off to find the toilets, with the understanding that they must come right back.
Our group was called, not to line up but to sit in the terminal. Maybe fifteen minutes later (we learned there was another couple from Pensacola on board) our area was called to process in – or embark, as they call it. That process was quick, with one surprise, we had to surrender our passports, which we never do, for British immigration and customs.
And then we boarded another bus which took us to a dismal part of the port, surrounded by piles of stones and dirt and cranes and bulldozers and roll on roll off containers and thousands of Hyundai cars awaiting delivery to dealerships.
We were disappointed. We had made plans for Greenwich. We unpacked, put everything away – it’s easy on Viking, we ask for the same stateroom every trip and we know where everything goes already, so unpacking is quick. We decided to go to the pool grill, where a better me would have ordered the seared ahi tuna, but the spoiled baby disappointed me ordered comfort food, the Viking hamburger. With fries!
To further soothe ourselves, when we got back to our room we went down to the gorgeous Viking spa, the only people there, and let the hot bubbling wave pool soothe our disappointment, then we napped.
We have old friends on board! We met up for dinner; these are the kind of friends that, even though we haven’t seen one another for three years, the conversation picks right up where we left off and just keeps going. We ate in the World Cafe, picking and choosing from a fabulous welcome buffet, lots of seafood, crab and shrimp and mussels! There was also a sweet potato soup with ginger that was out of this world, and of course, a choice of ten different ice creams. It’s one of the most popular places on the ship, casual with a luxury of choices.
Bernie, who, with Augustina, below, took good care of us and were a joy to know on the Viking Jupiter.
After dinner, the ship repositions to the main terminal, grand entertainment as we turned in tight quarters, then slid through a tiny canal to the locks leading to the River Thames. It took a couple of hours to complete the process. Out on our balconies, we met our neighbors on both sides, Will and Kate on one side. We dock with our cabin facing the terminal, an old-timey building with a clock tower on top.
Look how close the ship is to the canal edge!
Here is the truth. We were disappointed. We had been told we would be docked in Greenwich; Tillbury is a ways down the road from Greenwich, and more distant from London. We were prepared for Greenwich. We were both a little disgruntled, and aware of how very spoiled we are. Another truth is, until I re-read the journal I kept, and saw the photos, I had forgotten about this altogether, it was such a small disappointment in proportion to the great adventures we had in London and the greater adventures to come. We forgot about it!
British Isles: Day Two in London
We slept. We slept and slept. We didn’t want to get up. My body ached. It got to be eight and we knew we needed to get up and get going, but our bodies said it was still the middle of the night. Coffee. Coffee would help.
We went down to breakfast, and it was lovely, very lovely, hot and cold things but no oatmeal, and I am diabetic. I keep it controlled, but I need my oatmeal. So I treated myself to smoked salmon, and to oat cereal with fruits, and hoped for the best.
After breakfast, we took the Metro to Kensington, another new experience, where we didn’t buy tickets, just used our credit cards like everyone else was doing, remembering to tap in and be sure to tap out so we wouldn’t be charged for a whole day. We walked to the Museum of Natural History, where AdventureMan spent a lot of time with dinosaurs, and I focused on the beginnings of the earth, and found a fabulous display of earth minerals, sparkling minerals. It must be my Scandinavian blood, I love gemstones, and I found an exhibit that captivated me – there are gems I didn’t know about!
This museum quickly became packed with families and groups. By noon, once again my feet were tired. Texted AdventureMan who was also ready to leave. We love these museums but their floors are hard, harder than the pavement and sidewalks in London.
We walked to Herrod’s, getting there late in the game – we had to fight the crowds going in. Every designer of luxury goods has displays on the ground floor, so lovely, so tempting, but we have a mission – we head straight for the food halls, where we find something for dinner and some cheeses to take with us for when we board the ship; we like to have a small stock for wine and cheese as we sail away, or for before dinner celebrations. Just sitting on our balcony as the sun sets is a celebration. Any excuse will do, and having cheese and wine makes it even more special.
We found a wonderful man who knew a lot about cheese, who helped us find two we wanted to try, a Leicester Red and a Black Bomb. I found a smoked salmon salad for dinner, and AdventureMan found a wedge of quiche, and we picked up forks and knives as we headed out. The only souvenir I have bought here that was not edible was a Herrod’s canvas bag for foodstuffs with a leather strap. I love it and I will use it with a smile.
We saved so much money on little stuff that as we left Herrod’s and were trying to figure out whether we wanted to walk back or take the metro. We were right by the long line of taxis lined up to ferry Herrod customers where they needed to go, so I said, “Let’s grab a taxi!” and AdventureMan and his feet agreed heartily.
Our taxi driver was Dominique, from Nigeria, and we had a lively conversation on the way back to the hotel. I had never met a Nigerian Catholic before. I know many Anglican Nigerians, we went to church with them in Doha and Kuwait, but he was Ibo from near the coast. He told us Nigerians do not gather as Nigerians in London, but as communities along tribal lines, so he gathers with large numbers of Ibo in London.
We reorganized and rested briefly, then headed to take a river cruise, which was part of our Big Bus Hop On Hop Off package. We’ve been on these before, like in Paris, the Bateau Mouches, and they can be very crowded and uncomfortable, but it was still early, not crowded and we got good seats. I could get up and down as I needed, and a lot of the things I had seen and photo’d yesterday, so this was all very relaxed. We went from the Westminster Pier to the Tower Pier, got off, grabbed sandwiches at Pret a Manger, then found the HoHo to take us back to our hotel, where we need to pack up to move to our ship tomorrow morning.
We have two more days in London, and already we have had a wonderful time. We are feeling very relaxed, and happy to be here.
Back at the hotel, we got our bags packed for our six a.m. pickup, I took one last luxurious bath in the generous tub the room provided, we had a great conversation with the Polish woman who took care of our room and was married to a Pakistani, and we settled in for a good night’s sleep.
British Isles: Arrival and First Day in London
Arrival in London was both chaotic and orderly. As we arrived, early in the morning, several other large flights arrived, mostly from Africa, and we moved in a large crowd towards customs. At customs, we were separated into two lines, one countries associated with the British Empire, even the United States. All you had to do was to put your passport in the machine and it gave you the green light and you were done, so easy, so painless. It took seconds!
Pick up bags, walk out, the Viking people are waiting for us and pop us into a van with another couple to take us to our hotel.
At the hotel, it isn’t even nine a.m. but they have a room for us, and we love it. Spacious, for London, with a large bathroom with both a bathtub and separate shower room. Last time we were in London, we were in a room like a closet, climbing over each other to get to the bathroom which was like a toilet room in a boat, maybe 2.5 feet by 4 feet, and the shower got the toilet all wet. This feels so luxurious, and it is quiet.
Even better, the Big Bus, a hop on hop off line, stops just around the corner from our hotel, and we are close enough to many places to just walk. We spend some time cleaning up – having a bath after a long flight is just sheer luxury, and we are celebrating having a room, not having to leave our bags in a storage room and go out into the city in clothes we spent the night in. We’ve done it – and so we really appreciate not doing it.
Once we’ve cleaned up, we are ready to hit the town – and it’s not yet nine on a quiet August Saturday morning. We decide to take the Hop on Hop off and then change our minds and walk to the British Museum.
It isn’t our scheduled time, but the guard checks our bags, lets us in, and we go to the great court for a little coffee and cake, just to give us energy. We have museum guides and AdventureMan is eager to hit the Egyptian displays, and I have my own agenda so we separate with plans to meet in 2 hours.
I head straight for the Sutton Hoo warrior. I think early man is fascinating and smart. We think we are so smart now, with all our technology, and it concerns me how little practical knowledge we have. In all cultures, the early cultures were about survival. How to nourish our bodies, how to protect our bodies, how to heal our bodies, only slowly developing more complex behaviors like farming, cloth making, cooking, making containers to store things – so I love exhibits on early civilizations, early communications (petroglyphs and pictographs) and early war fighting. Second, the Lindisfarne chess set, and then the Rosetta Stone. At first, my quests were easy, but quickly the museum filled and getting close to the Rosetta Stone was nearly impossible.
Finally I texted AdventureMan “my feet hurt! I found a bench in the great court by the questions booth, you will find me there” and within minutes AdventureMan showed up saying “My feet hurt!” It had also become, as you can see, very crowded. Individuals, groups, entire bus-loads, families – it’s a Saturday morning and we are glad we got there early and saw what we wanted to see and now, we are glad to escape the hoards.
AdventureMan had done his homework and had found a restaurant in Chinatown with duck, and we walked there. They sent us upstairs, where we were crowded in with about a hundred Chinese families, mostly at large round tables, with a few tables for two wedged around the room. Hardly space to exit or enter. We loved it. We got the food we wanted, duck with pancakes and sliced onions and cucumber and sauce, and a bowl of spinach and garlic.
With all that good food, our feet stopped hurting and with some searching, we found the Big Bus Tour stop, had our paperwork verified and climbed on the bus for a two hour overview of London up high on the top of the bus.
It dropped us off at our hotel and we staggered in, bathed again, and tumbled into bed. In about an hour we woke up, but decided to sleep another hour, then made ourselves get up, get dressed and go out walking some more to find a place to eat.
We walked to the Thames, to Westminster Abbey and discovered the clouds were disappearing, and a rich glow was lighting up the gilding on the Parliament buildings and Churches. It was glorious, and revived us.
As it got late, we needed to eat to get our bodies on local time, but couldn’t find anything right. Then we came across the Blue Boar pub, liked the look of the menu and went in, only to figure out that we were in our own hotel again, just a part we hadn’t found before. I had a beetroot salad and mussels, and AdventureMan had a goat cheese quiche (we split the mussels) and we stumbled up to our room and fell into bed. We had walked almost 18K steps.
It was a great day. We had intended to take it easy, but all the exercise and staying up really helped us to get on local time. The nap helped; even so we decided to ditch our already-paid-for sunset whirl on the London Eye. Once we saw it, saw all the people enclosed in a tiny capsule that goes very very slowly around, it didn’t interest us. So much to do, so little time!
British Isles: Leaving Pensacola
We were so relaxed Adventure Man and I, leaving at a very reasonable hour of 8:15 when our Pakistani friend would pick us up to take us to the airport. We really like this man; he sends a text early the morning of the day before departure to confirm he will pick us up at 0815. He is never late. He is occasionally early. That’s just fine with him; we are ready.
We are flying United; we hardly ever fly with United. When we arrive at the airport, there is a large crowd checking in, but they are all at Delta and American, and there are clerks waiting to check people in, and no other United customers. Check-in is a breeze, we zip up to security, which is also a breeze – now we no longer need to take off our shoes. Our flight takes off on time, we arrive in Houston early, we have time for a sit down lunch.
We wanted Texas barbecue, but have you noticed, airports are changing. There are fewer and fewer people, fewer personal kinds of shops, almost all generic, and almost all self-serve and self-checkout using machines and credit cards.
We look for a real restaurant with Texas BBQ, but all we find are these kiosk-ish kinds of places with BBQ that has clearly been prepared somewhere else. Se settle for an Oriental-ish kind of restaurant, where you read a menu by using a QR code, and you choose and pay and give the tip with no interaction with a human being. A woman served the drinks and orders, but would (maybe could not) not answer any questions for those for whom the technology was too confusing, or not working as they had been told.
I had one of the most expensive miso soups I had ever had, and shared some dumplings with AdventureMan, who had a great big bowl of soup, both delicious, but the dumplings were served with Thousand Island dressing, so jarring to the way things “ought” to be.
Our flight boarded quickly, we took off on time, we were served dinner immediately, and I slept as best I could. I didn’t think I slept, but my Fitbit said I slept four and a half hours, so I may be wrong.
We have found that we don’t have the latitude we used to have when making travel plans. We learned on the Elbe trip that it makes a difference having airlines reservations made by Viking. When things go wrong, when flights cancel or weather intervenes, their travel people jump into action and take care of things, while those who have made their own arrangements struggle. But it means we sometimes fly airlines we don’t prefer on routes we find less desirable. This time, we just sighed and accepted it, and – had a perfect and comfortable flight, arrival and transfer experience.
Delinquent and Begging Forgiveness
It is five p.m. Pensacola Time, this 30th day of December, and I am starting a new series of posts, a trip we took in August to the British Isles, ending in Bergen, Norway.
While I am still the same Intlxpatr you remember from back in 2006 – yes, almost 20 years ago, I have aged. I still feel the same on the inside, but there are hints even I cannot ignore. I have slowed down. I have given up things that might damage me, like skiing and ice skating, and walking too fast on slick surfaces. Like staying up late at night to finish a book. Like eating too late at night, and cooking for large crowds.
None of this happened quickly, and most of happened unconsciously. We used to joke about becoming “elderly” and we don’t joke about that anymore, or we joke about it differently, with more respect.
We still love to travel, but we travel differently, too. Today I started to plan a trip to the Big Bend National Park in Texas, and to some petroglyph sites north of there, and when I went to plot the map, I discovered it was 1100 miles. When we got to Pensacola, 15 years ago, we might do that in two days, like making a stop in Houston or Fredricksburg, but now, we don’t travel like that. We fly places, rent cars, spend more time in one location. As I looked at the map and the distances, my heart sank. We could do it – and we would pay a price. I sighed, and started looking at other options.
When we finished trips, I might give myself a month or so to sort through the photos and to integrate what I had seen and learned, and then I would start writing and not stop until I had finished up the trip, a day or two. This is the first year I have not written up any trips, and so I will start with this one, The British Isles.
It’s been on the books for three years. We like to plan. We like to research. We weren’t as excited about this trip as others (almost anything on the Mediterranean). It turned out to be one of the best cruises yet.
And there were differences. We had planned to take it easy – we didn’t. This trip was so packed with destinations, we were on the run every day. We booked ahead for early tours at our destinations, so there wasn’t a lot of sleeping in. I had books with me, but the only reading I got done was on the airplanes, going and coming back. There were days, I am embarrased to admit, when we woke up and had to check what day it was and which city, which country we were in. There is one day that I uploaded photos, ran short of time, thought I had saved them, carefully deleted from my camera and disk, then discovered I had lost two days worth of photos. Fortunately I had also taken some on my camera, and Adventureman to the rescue – he had taken some beautiful photos.
All I’m saying is that I am confronted by some realities I never dreamed would apply to me. Uncomfortable realities relating to energy levels, bone density, conditions that only applied to The Elderly. Oh. Wait.
So we are traveling a little differently now, maybe just a little slower, definitely lighter, expecting less of ourselves and truthfully, enjoying it more. AdventureMan told me tonight he has noticed over the years I am putting in less written content and more photos. Sadly, it’s because sometimes I can’t remember! Sometimes I just get tired of writing! But I am committing to sharing this trip with you, starting now.
The map at the top is the route we followed. We gave ourselves two days in London to adjust to the time change before joining the Viking Jupiter. I may be rueful about aging, and less compultive about posting, but we really loved our time on this voyage.
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