Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Cold, So Cold in Kuwait

Last night, in the middle of the night, even my normal blanket and the Qatteri Cat weren’t enough. I was COLD. It seeped right through the blankets and into my hips. I was too sleepy to get up, and shifted position, trying to find a warm place, but finally, I had to give up and go get another blanket.

“Do you need some more blanket?” I asked AdventureMan, but he said no, he was fine. I covered up the Qatteri Cat entirely, and in moments was warm and toasty and drifting back into sleep.

A couple hours later I feel a nudge and a cold leg drifting up next to me, and AdventureMan whispers “I’m cold!”

I tell him to snuggle up, but then he says he is still cold and I remind him there is another blanket on the end of the bed, and he, too, covers up and is quickly back to sleep.

When I got up this morning, it was cold, so cold I have to wear slippers on the cold marble tiles, and a shawl against the chill. Even hot coffee isn’t enough; soon I have to head for the shower, a nice HOT shower.

Weather Underground says it is -1°C in Kuwait. I believe it. I believe with the wind chill, it feels even colder.

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And, Daggero, just for you, that icy-cold sunrise you asked about yesterday (although check later today, to my surprise, I do have a sunrise from yesterday!)

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Not a cloud in sight. Only that pollution laying out there on the horizon. I can only imagine the chaos snow would dump on the Kuwait traffic. It would be utter bedlam.

Bundle up, Kuwait! It is COLD out there!

January 4, 2009 Posted by | Community, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, sunrise series, Weather | 10 Comments

Kuwait Times on Morality Police

Wooo HOOOO on you, Jamie Etheridge; you bring grammar, tone and content to the Kuwait Times

Kuwait’s illegal morality police
Published Date: January 02, 2009
By Jamie Etheridge

Two female students were attacked by two youths this past week in Hawally, reportedly for not wearing the hijab. The girls were standing outside their school when two bearded young men jumped from an SUV, whacked them with a stick and then jumped back into their truck and took off. The incident sparked outrage and triggered discussions across Kuwait about the self-proclaimed morality police encouraged by a radical Islamist cleric Mubarak Al-Bathali.

In late December, Al-Bathali announced that he had established a voluntary committee for the “Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice” along the lines of the dreaded Saudi mutaween. The mutaween are a sort of religious police that patrol the streets in the villages and cities of Saudi Arabia, ensuring that women are covered from head to toe, that men go to the mosque to pray and that unmarried men and women do not mix in public. They also enforce other important moral strictures, like no mixed dancing or playing rock and roll music.

Al-Bathali said that his ‘vice’ squad will patrol the Sulaibikhat area first and then slowly spread out to other areas. It’s not clear who was behind the attacks in Hawally. Some have argued that it might have been just a couple of youths having fun and playing a trick on the girls by whacking them like the mutaween in Saudi do.

Let’s hope it was a bad joke by bored teens. God help us if random groups of men suddenly start forming ‘morality’ patrols and beating women on the streets of Kuwait. A Kuwaiti mutaween would create a host of problems.

First, the morality police would be trying to enforce a brand of radical Islam and ideology many in Kuwait – both citizens and expats – do not follow. Many Muslim women in this country do not wear hijab and there are no laws that require them to do so – despite the best efforts of the fundamentalists in parliament.

Second, Kuwaitis are highly protective of their female family members and few are likely to accept strange men whacking their mothers, sisters, daughters, wives and aunts in public areas. Following the 1990-1991 Iraqi invasion and occupation, some radical Islamists tried to establish a religious police and had begun even stationing ‘officers’ outside the Co-ops in Jabriya, Surra and elsewhere.

These mullahs carried short sticks and would strike women coming out of the Co-ops who they deemed to be dressed inappropriately. The women, of course, immediately called their male relatives who then rushed to the Co-ops and attacked the mullahs for attacking the women. The resulting chaos led to the banning of the self proclaimed morality cops.

Third, an ad hoc security force running loose around the country poses a real and present danger to the forces of the Interior Minister and by extension, the stability and security of Kuwait as a whole.

Nearly 20 years later, the radicals have reemerged and wider popularity – as evidenced by the fundamentalists victory in parliamentary polls – has encouraged them to reassert their plans for greater social control.

Success for the mullahs will mean failure for Kuwait’s experiment with democracy. Unlike the rest of the Gulf Arab states, Kuwait isn’t just beginning this experiment. For nearly half a century, this diminutive Muslim country has balanced tribal mores and religious identity with the Islamic and democratic ideals of freedom, dignity and self respect. Allowing roving bands of self appointed religious police to patrol the streets of Kuwait will undermine all of the country’s efforts toward balancing tradition
and modernity.

January 3, 2009 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Counter-terrorism, Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Free Speech, Kuwait, Law and Order, Living Conditions, Mating Behavior, News, NonFiction, Political Issues, Relationships, Saudi Arabia, Social Issues, Women's Issues | 9 Comments

What We’re Watching – Briefly

We could hardly wait to recover enough from jet lag to sit down and watch the final season of The Wire Season 5, generously loaned to us by our son. This season focused on newspaper coverage, how they choose what to run, how newspapers are changing and how they influence city management and police work.

It was a hoot.

McNulty, in the face of huge budget cuts, damaging Baltimore city police morale, creates a “serial killer” using bodies which actually died a natural death. From the beginning, you find yourself saying “No! McNulty, No!” it is just so blatantly self-destructive, so destined for exposure, but, as many con-jobs do, it succeeds brilliantly for a short while, with unexpected assistance from a journalist who builds his own coverage on a fictional phone call he claims to receive from the serial killer. Meanwhile, we follow the familiar faces on the streets, and think often of what our son has said – in law enforcement, the good guys aren’t always that good and the bad guys aren’t always that bad.

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At the end of the last episode, they tie things together and show us a glimpse of where the characters we have grown to love end up with their lives. It is a brilliant series, one of the best we have ever watched. If you have never followed The Wire, we suggest you start with Season 1 and work your way to Season 5, so you get the fullest picture.

This weekend, we watched four movies:

Twilight
Burn After Reading
The Day the Earth Stood Still
Charlie Wilson’s War

I was really looking for Valkyrie and Australia, but the DVD guy says he hasn’t gotten good copies yet.

Twilight – based on a series of book very popular with readers about vampires, at first we thought the movie was pretty bad, but camp. We watched the whole thing. There were moments of good writing, but overall – if you have ever seen True Blood, which has the same Romeo & Juliet premise, breeching the moral barrier between human and vampire, how can two so unalike find true love, etc. . . True Blood is funnier, has better writing. Twilight is interesting, though, and ties in other interesting legends, American Indian, etc.

Burn After Reading – We really like many of the Coen brother’s films, especially Fargo, but we found this one had few of those golden moments and a lot of boring boring boring. Oh well.

The Day the Earth Stood Still – I have always loved science fiction, the way it takes the long view, so I was interested to see how this re-make would do. It was ok – good. We enjoyed the movie, which had some great moments, and makes it’s point – when pushed to the precipice, we CAN change. It had a lot of drama.

Charlie Wilson’s War – Tom Hanks and Julia Roberts, golden combination, in how the US got involved supporting mujeheddin against the Russians in Afghanistan. It was an interesting movie. Had many funny moments, so funny you know it probably had an element of real life, as the ridiculous pops up so often – or it does in my life (how about yours?) I was left wondering, though, if anyone ever really succeeds in Afghanistan, and if we haven’t overstayed our usefullness to the Afghanis.

Not a really great movie in the bunch. It’s a good thing we have good books to read. 🙂

January 2, 2009 Posted by | Entertainment, ExPat Life, Law and Order | 10 Comments

Never-Ending Sunrise 2 Jan 09

Good morning!

We stayed up late last night watching movies. At my normal time this morning, I woke up and told myself I could go back to sleep, but . . . sleep didn’t come. I don’t know how it works for you – I am a morning person. Once I am awake, I am awake. And it was just about time for a sunrise, so I joined the Qatteri Cat in the living room, and took a photo of a very grey, very cold, day.

I thought yesterday was WARM. I had headed out, all bundled up for winter, with AdventureMan, and we were both warm almost as soon as we got in the car. I had to take off a layer as we ran our errands. Late last night, seeing our guests off, we were both shivering in the cold – the weather changed so quickly.

Here is what it looks like this morning:
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Here is the dawning at 0630:
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Just 15 minutes later, a whole new sky:
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And another 15 minutes it looks like an artist took paintbrush to the sky, giving it highlights and depth and color:
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My cholesterol actually came down this year – it wasn’t high, but it was rising. Eating the dreaded oatmeal and more vegetables, less meat seemed to help. When I just can’t stand the thought of another bowl of oatmeal, I fix myself a bowl of Kashi with blueberries, which, for my US viewers, costs around $11 – $12 a box – not a large box – here in Kuwait. I save it for special occasions. 😉

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January 2, 2009 Posted by | ExPat Life, Food, Health Issues, Living Conditions, sunrise series, Weather | 12 Comments

Hopeful Signs

You know me a little bit by now. You know what makes my heart sing. I believe things really can get better, if we all just commit to being a part of that process, and taking steps, even small steps, in the right direction.

So you will understand why this makes my heart sing:
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Wooo HOOOO, Kuwait! Clean! Fresh! Visible! Woooo HOOOOOOOO!

And – just seconds later – THIS:
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Light at night! Clear! Visible!

Wooo HOOOO, Kuwait!

Some bureaucrat somewhere made a decision, and followed through on that decision, to make sure it was carried out, this being Kuwait. That one seemingly small decision, that small step in the right direction, could save lives.

God bless the bureaucracy, God bless the people that make the effort to keep us safe, who take their jobs seriously. I don’t take this lightly, not in my own country, not in any country I live in. Public policy is created by US, making small steps for the greater good.

December 31, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Interconnected, Kuwait, Leadership, Living Conditions, Technical Issue | 7 Comments

Rose-Colored Sunrise 31 Dec 2008

When we got up this morning, it was DARK, at a time when it is normally lighter. When I looked out my window, there were heavy clouds, everything looked dark and sombre:

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Minutes later, the sun begins to break through and the clouds look less substantial:
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And then – the light! The sun breaks through!
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And, a short time later, the day shimmers in silver and gold:
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All that drama, and the morning is yet young! Wooo HOOOO, what a day this might be!

These are funny days, December 29th – 31st, days in which those who follow the Islamic calendar are already in the new year, and days in which we are still waiting. Tomorrow we will all be back on track, starting off a new year. In Kuwait, schools this week reported 85% absenteeism. Schools were open – but the students didn’t come!

AdventureMan and I briefly reviewed our year 2008 before praying this morning. For us – even though our financial investments are (on paper) in the depths – this has been a very good year. We have each other, and we have our sweet Qatteri Cat.

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We have been greatly blessed to have had more time with our son this year than any year we can remember in the last ten years. We love our time with him, and with his wife. We have had weddings, and lots of family times with my family. We have had wonderful times with our friends, old and new. God has blessed us abundantly.

In every way that really matters, life is sweet. We thank God for 2008. We thank God, even for the challenges that 2009 will bring.

Brothers and sisters, we wish you peace, peace in your spirits, peace in your families, peace in your nations, and a desire to meet all obstacles with peaceful intentions. We wish you peaceful times with family, and peaceful resolutions of any conflicts. May your New Year be filled with unexpected blessings!

December 31, 2008 Posted by | Community, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Friends & Friendship, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Relationships, sunrise series, Weather | , | 17 Comments

Qurain Fest – Information Where?

Here is what bugs me. There is this perfectly wonderful festival going on. I only know because the newspapers print photos and stories – after each event. I cannot figure out WHERE the event is taking place, WHAT TIME an event will take place . . . these are perfect opportunities to go and learn something, to experience the culture, and we have no idea – in advance – where to go, how to find these things.

I would love to see this dancing!

So, if it is cultural, music and dancing are allowed? 🙂 Is it always just men dancing, or do women dance, too?

Isn’t this camel racing season? When are the camels raced? Where?

From Al Watan

Kuwaiti folk dancing troupe entertains audience

KUWAIT: As part of the Qurain Cultural Festival”s festivities, the Red Palace group, a folk dancing troupe, performed in Jahra on Sunday.

The performance, which was attended by Deputy Director of the festival Mohammed AlـAsousi, lasted for two hours. The dancers presented a wide spectrum of national and patriotic themes much to the enjoyment of the audience.

Head of the folklore group, Nasser Suleiman AlـFaraj explained that their participation in the event came as a result of the group”s strong belief in reviving an old heritage and folklore. He stressed that the past would always be relevant in the present.

Last updated on Tuesday 30/12/2008

December 30, 2008 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Rants, Travel | 17 Comments

Sunrise 30 December 2008

Good Morning, Kuwait!

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There are tiny, fleecy clouds in the sky, nothing to speak of, no rain in sight. The scum on the horizon is diminished. It is going to be another gorgeous “winter” day in Kuwait. Light sweater weather – my favorite!

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Christmas is all put away, and we are readying to welcome in the New Year. Happy New Year (already) to my friends who celebrated the Islamic New Year yesterday. May God richly bless you in the year to come.

(As I write that, I realize with a start that we don’t think the way God does. What if the economic crisis, our dwindling investments, the rising prices – what if these are all a part of God’s blessing, and we don’t see it? What if he is demonstrating that we can live more simply, more happily, with less? What if he is telling us we can be happy eating less, spending less, what if he is telling us our greatest blessings are family? good health? moderation? Hmmmmmmm. . . . . . )

December 30, 2008 Posted by | Beauty, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Holiday, Interconnected, Living Conditions, Random Musings | 4 Comments

Family Crisis

The Gospel reading for today details a family crisis. We grow up with these words, we know them by heart, but it is only living in the countries near where Jesus was actually born that I have come to ponder these words in my heart, and try to imagine what it meant in Mary’s time.

Matthew 1:18-25

18 Now the birth of Jesus the Messiah* took place in this way. When his mother Mary had been engaged to Joseph, but before they lived together, she was found to be with child from the Holy Spirit. 19 Her husband Joseph, being a righteous man and unwilling to expose her to public disgrace, planned to dismiss her quietly. 20 But just when he had resolved to do this, an angel of the Lord appeared to him in a dream and said, ‘Joseph, son of David, do not be afraid to take Mary as your wife, for the child conceived in her is from the Holy Spirit. 21 She will bear a son, and you are to name him Jesus, for he will save his people from their sins.’ 22 All this took place to fulfil what had been spoken by the Lord through the prophet:
23 ‘Look, the virgin shall conceive and bear a son,
and they shall name him Emmanuel’,
which means, ‘God is with us.’ 24 When Joseph awoke from sleep, he did as the angel of the Lord commanded him; he took her as his wife, 25 but had no marital relations with her until she had borne a son;* and he named him Jesus.

Living in Jordan, living in the Gulf has helped me so much to understand the context in which this birth took place. In America today, it is still hoped for that women will be married when they have children, but it is not taken for granted. No one goes out and kills a daughter or sister who has had sexual relations with a man before she is married. Parents don’t disown daughters who conceive before the vows are publicly exchanged.

Even now, in the Middle East, most expect women to be virgin at marriage, and to conceive only after the formalities of marriage. There are steep penalties to be paid for varying from that route. Banishment. Death. Dishonor. A bastard child, if she lives that long. These are all things Mary was facing as she entered her earliest months of pregnancy. Joseph had decided to set her aside – not to marry her. He was a decent man, but a man of the times, he didn’t want a pregnant bride. The angel comes – he tells Joseph that this baby is special, conceived of the Holy Spirit, that Mary remains virgin. And miracle of miracles . . . Joseph listens.

What a courageous woman. What a courageous man.

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December 28, 2008 Posted by | Character, Charity, Christmas, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Living Conditions, Marriage, Random Musings, Spiritual, Women's Issues | 8 Comments

What is it called in Kuwait? Can you do it?

In the comments of a recent post, blogger Moodi asked if I liked Qatayif. I checked the Wikipedia page, and it reminded me of something else.

In Qatar, when I lived there, our teachers at The Qatar Center for the Presentation of Islam demonstrated making a large, thin dough that was used in many ways, folded and used in casseroles, used as a foundation in serving dishes, crumbled up when dry and used in breakfast making . . .

It was made by hand, using a dough that you held in your hand, and tossed and brought back to your hand after leaving a dot on a hot griddle. I think the hot griddle might have been flat some times, and like an upside-down wok other times. The pancake would turn out large and round, but only a few atoms thick, they were very very thin and delicate.

I never have seen this in Kuwait, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.

Do any of your grandmothers or mothers make thin pancakes for special holidays in this manner? Can you tell me what it is called?

In Tunisia, women used to make Malsouqa, the thin thin dough used to make brik and sell it in stacks in the marketplace. You could wait, and buy it fresh off the stove, they would toss and grab, toss and grab, and then peel the very thin, fragile skin of dough off the burner. Pop in a little tuna, chopped parsley. salt, pepper and egg, fry lightly in a little olive oil in a frying pan – heaven in a wrapper.

I was obsessed. It took me an hour – but I found a wonderful blog, Chef Zadi with these fabulous photos of how malsouka are made. His blog is all about healthy North African cuisine

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So – have you seen anything similar, something done on a hot iron with a dough held in the hand and tossed at the got grill over and over, leaving small spots of dough that gather into a large flaky thin pastry?

December 28, 2008 Posted by | Africa, Cooking, ExPat Life, Food | 7 Comments