Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Bad Dream

Do you ever have a bad dream at night and you can’t shake it off? No more coffee for me after dinner!

The Qatteri Cat also had a restless night, and it was nearly dawn before we both drifted off into deepest sleep.

I dreamed I was living in a new place, a very spacious place, and then the doorbell rang and people came to deliver new furniture. It was like when I was an Army wife – I had no notification, and had not made any arrangements for where the new furniture would go. And yet the furniture was here and I had no choice and had to quickly make a place.

The furniture was awful! Awful! Stuff I would never have chosen in a million years, and I felt so depressed thinking “how am I supposed to live with this furniture? I don’t like this furniture!” And I wanted to send it all back.

Now that I write it down, it sounds absurdly funny, but I woke up feeling powerless and angry and sad all at the same time. Now what’s that all about?

July 21, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Family Issues, Living Conditions, Relationships | | 9 Comments

One Step Beyond: Baan Sabaidee

We all have our limits. When it comes to food, my limits are farther out there than most – I like taste. I like most cuisines, or at least most of most cuisines. I do have my limits.

One limit is okra / ladyfingers/ bamyi:

One time, at a buffet in Jordan, I told my husband I was going back for something I found totally delicious, and he laughed and said “You know it is okra?” No, I didn’t know. I did go back and get a little more anyway, but it no longer tasted the same – I knew it was okra. It’s the texture; okra is, to me, slimy, gooey, in my mouth it gives me shudders. It’s like raw oysters. Shudder.

Deep fried okra in a spicy tomato sauce was OK – until I knew it was okra.

I was visiting with a friend, working on some projects and we decided to order out from a nearby newly opened Thai restaurant for lunch. She’s a crazy woman, like me. We are not alike – she says “tomahto” and I say “tomato” and somehow we get along just fine. We decided to order things we have never ordered before.

We ordered two safe things – the first was Gai Sate (chicken sate). It was gorgeous and delicious. The sauce is one of the best sauces I have had with Thai food, hot, sweet, and sesame. Delightful.

The second safe thing was Pad Thai, which was also beautiful and tasty:

We ordered Pad Ka Phrao, because we had never heard of it, and because it has basil leaves in it:

It was delicious.

We loved the way the food was packaged. The green curry and the soup was packed in sealed plastic sacks, inside the normal plastic containers. Not a single drop was spilled in the bag. I’m impressed. I love soups, and I hate the mess when soups spill in the bags:

This is the green curry (Gaeng Khew Wan). It is totally delicious.

You know me. I love fish. We had never tried the Tom Kling (smoked herb soup) so we ordered that, with grilled smoked fish. It came beautifully packaged, like the above curry. When we went to eat the soup, however, although it was delicious, I had to fish out the fish. I am not normally squeamish, but their little fishy eyes were too much for me:

AdventureMan and I later made a trip to find the restaurant. It wasn’t easy, but it was worth the trouble. Tucked back behind some of the behomoth apartments on the Southern Gulf Road, it only has maybe six tables, but it is tiny and exquisite. Someone went to a lot of trouble to make this little place beautiful and serene. Although it is a new restaurant, it was already packed when we got there, but a table opened up just as we arrived.

We asked for recommendations, and tried the Tod Mun (shrimp cakes) and a dish I loved. Pad See Ew, which was vermicelli noodles stir fried in soy sauce with shrimp. We also had the chicken sate again – delicious. We were busy watching other people with big pots of something in front of them, shared by groups. We have to go back and try that, whatever it was.

Their take out menu has a nice feel to it – heavy paper with good photos so you can guess what you are ordering:

And- the bonus – it has a map of how to get there on the back, so I don’t have to confuse you trying to figure out the directions:

If they are full, I noticed across the street is another branch of China Queen, one of the best kept secrets in Kuwait for Chinese food with authenticity.

July 20, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Community, Cooking, Cross Cultural, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Food, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 9 Comments

Strange Bird

It’s the strangest bird. He settles on the balcony off my kitchen around dusk. It doesn’t bother him that I am inside moving around, preparing dinner. It doesn’t bother him in the least that the Qatteri Cat is jumping at the window and miow-ing wildly. When I bribe the Qatteri Cat to leave the kitchen, and I shut the door and take some bread pieces out to the bird, he doesn’t fly away.

He’s still there when I go to bed. He is there at 4 in the morning, when I can’t stand not knowing if he is there or not. When I get up – after dawn – he is gone.

I am glad he felt safe enough to spend the night on the balcony. I am also glad he was able to fly away the next morning – I was afraid he wasn’t well. Maybe stunned from flying into a window or something. Maybe (gasp) bird flu. It was a relief to know he flew away on his own power, and that he he was just spending the night on my balcony.

July 19, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Family Issues, Health Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 7 Comments

Fresh Orange Souffle

This recipe is a little more complicated than most, because of the collar, but once you’ve done it – and it isn’t that hard – it is a piece of cake. You can leave out the Grand Marnier and it still tastes just fine. Delicious and cooling, light on a hot hot hot summer’s eve in Kuwait – or anywhere else. πŸ™‚

Fresh Orange Souffle

This is another recipe from our time in Tunis, where oranges are so good and so sweet!

2 small naval oranges
2 envelopes unflavored gelatine
6 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 can frozen concentrate for orange juice, thawed
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 pint heavy cream
1/4 cup Grand Marnier or other orange flavored liquer

1. Prepare six cup clear souffle dish, or other clear straight sided glass dish with a collar – here’s how. Fold a 24” length of waxed paper in half lengthwise, wrap around dish to make a 3 β€œ extension of dish. Tape or use string to hold in place. (You use a clear glass dish so that the sliced oranges show around the sides)

2. Cut one orange into thin slices, arrange slices against side of souffle dish, chill.

3. Grate rind from remaining orange, measure 4 teaspoons.

Squeeze the juice of the oranges; measure into 1 cup measure adding water, if necessary, to equal 1/2 cup. Sprinkle gelatin over the orange juice, let stand 5 minutes to soften.

Set cup in a saucepan of simmering water, stirring until gelatin is completely dissolved. Remove from heat.

4. Beat eggs and sugar in a large bowl with electric mixer at high speed until thick and light. (10 – 20 minutes)

5. While eggs are beating, whip 1 1/2 cups of the cream in a small bowl until soft peaks form, refrigerate.

6. Combine orange rind, orange juice concentrate, lemon juice, orange liquer and dissolved gelatin; pour into egg mixture. Continue beating the mixture until it is well blended. Remove bowl from mixer, chill about 5 minutes by placing in larger bowl lined with ice cubes. Stir often, just until mixture mounds slightly when spooned.

Fold whipped cream into chilled mixture until no streaks of white remain. Pour into prepared dish, taking care not to disturb the orange slices. Refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours.

9. To serve, gently remove collar. Beat remaining cream in a small bowl until stiff. Garnish with chopped pistachio nuts.

Warning: Ummm, I just remembered, this is an old fashioned recipe that uses raw eggs. People with immune system difficulties, pregnant women, anyone worried about raw egg issues should not eat this souffle.

July 18, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Food, Health Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Recipes | 6 Comments

Ministry Conducts Demographics Study

This is from today’s Kuwait Times. I LOVE demographics. I love tagging factors, loading them all into a data base and seeing where the stats fall. You learn so much.

The Ministry of Social Affairs and Labor is studying effective means to rectify the country’s demographic imbalance. The ministry has reportedly reached the conclusion that the blend of different nationalities in Kuwait has proved detrimental to its societal fabric. One Arab nation’s expatriate population in the country has exceeded 300,000, sources say, which puts the states economic and political stability at great risk. Sources said that the matter is complicated and needs all the ministries’ undivided support.

Expatriates, it is felt, bring with them their own modern culture and customs which are alien to the local citizens, most of whom follow archaic customs deeply rooted in tribal practices. Expatriates are also accused of taking the law into their own hands without approaching the concerned authorities whenever they are confronted with a problem. It has also been observed that expatriates belonging to a certain nationality inhabit certain areas in droves, leaving security officials at a loss to change the situation.

As a move towards controlling the situation, the ministry is to form a permanent committee comprising officials from different ministries to scrutinize all the expatriates who arrive at Kuwait.

It will issue a fitness certificate to eligible expatriates on the lines of medical fitness test. Employers will then be able to decide whether to appoint those workers or repatriate them. The ministry also plans to come down heavily on expats who obtain jobs using illegal residence permits.

Hmmm. Rectifying the population imbalance might require giving up expatriate labor. What laborers do you want to give up? The largest number are probably doing low-skill level work – cleaning houses, cleaning the streets . . .Or do you want to give up those who are managing your stores, taking your orders in all the restaurants, cooking, taking care of the office chores?

I can guess which expatriates are bringing in alien modern customs and practices, but unless you are going to give up television, cable, the internet and travel . . . that train has probably left the station.

So which nationality has over 300,000 expats in Kuwait? And which nationalities “inhabit certain areas in droves?”

Who takes the law into their own hands?

July 17, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Health Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Random Musings, Relationships, Social Issues | 6 Comments

First Dates

There are some advantages to being in Kuwait in the dead heat of summer. One is that even in peak driving time, the roads are far less crowded. Restaurants are less crowded. Shops are full of all the things that go missing when the entire population is in town.

And – if you are here in July, and if you have good Kuwaiti friends with date trees – you get a big bowl of fresh, sweet DATES!

These are unbelievably yummy. I always liked dates, but until we moved to Tunisia, I didn’t know the pure joy of fresh dates. Living in Kuwait when the first dates of the season start ripening – pure bliss.

No, my Kuwaiti friends are very generous, they gave me a great big plate of dates, it’s just I’ve already eaten most of them! I had to take a photo quickly, before I ate the few remaining!

I went to Wikipedia on Date Palms to discover there are countless varieties of dates. They give this lengthy list of dates, and then say that in Iraq there are more than 100 different dates cultivated:

Aabel – common in Libya
Ajwah – from the town of β€˜Ajwah in Saudi Arabia, it is the subject of a famous hadith of the prophet Muhammad.
Al-Barakah – from Saudi Arabia
Amir Hajj or ‘Amer Hajj’ – from Iraq, these are soft with a thin skin and thick flesh, sometimes called “the visitor’s date” because it is a delicacy served to guests.
‘Abid Rahim (Arabic: ΨΉΨ¨Ψ― Ψ±Ψ­ΩŠΩ…β€Ž), from Sudan
Barakawi (Arabic: Ψ¨Ψ±ΩƒΨ§ΩˆΩŠβ€Ž), from Sudan
Barhee or (barhi) (from Arabic barh, a hot wind) – these are nearly cylindrical, light amber to dark brown when ripe; soft, with thick flesh and rich flavour. One of the few varieties which are good in the khalal stage when they are yellow (like a fresh grape as opposed to dry, like a raisin).
Bireir (Arabic: Ψ¨Ψ±ΩŠΨ±β€Ž) – from Sudan
Deglet Noor (Arabic: ‘translucent’ or ‘date of light’) – so named because the centre appears light or golden when held up to the sun. This is a leading date in Algeria, the USA, and Tunisia, and in the latter country it is grown in inland oases and is the chief export cultivar. It is semi-dry and not very sweet.
Derrie or ‘Dayri’ (the ‘Monastery’ date) – from southern Iraq – these are long, slender, nearly black, and soft.
Empress – developed by the Deval Family in Indio California USA from a seedling of ‘Deglet Noor’. It is larger than ‘Deglet Noor’, somewhat softer and sweeter. It generally has a light tan top half and brown bottom half.
Ftimi or ‘Alligue’ – these are grown in inland oases of Tunisia.
Holwah (Halawi) (Arabic: ‘sweet’) – these are soft, and extremely sweet, small to medium in size.
Haleema – in Hoon, Libya (Haleema is a woman’s name)
Hayany – from Egypt (Hayani) (Hayany is a man’s name) – these dates are dark-red to nearly black and soft.
Iteema – common in Algeria
Kajur – common in Pakistan / India
Kenta – common in Tunisia
Khadrawi date / Khadrawy (Arabic: ‘green’) – a cultivar favoured by many Arabs, it is a soft, very dark date.
Khalasah (Arabic: ‘quintessence’) – one of the most famous palm cultivars in Saudi Arabia, famous for its sweetness level that is not high nor low, thus, suits most people. Its fruit is called ‘Khlas’. Its famous place is ‘Huffuf’ (Al-Ahsa) in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia (Al-Sharqheyah).
Khastawi (Khusatawi, Kustawy) – this is the leading soft date in Iraq; it is syrupy and small in size, prized for dessert.
Maktoom (Arabic: ‘hidden’) – this is a large, red-brown, thick-skinned, soft, medium-sweet date.
Manakbir – a large fruit which ripens early.
Medjool date
Medjool or (Mujhoolah) (Arabic: ‘unknown’) – from Morocco, also grown in the USA, Saudi Arabia, Jordan and Israel; a large, sweet and succulent date. It is named unknown because who owned it at first didn’t know its specie and thus called it unknown.
Migraf (Mejraf) – very popular in Southern Yemen, these are large, golden-amber dates.
Mgmaget Ayuob – from Hoon, Libya
Mishriq (Arabic: ‘East’ – Ω…Ψ΄Ψ±Ω‚)β€Ž – from Sudan and Saudi Arabia
Nabtat-seyf – in Saudi Arabia.
Rodab – from Iran, they are dark and soft.
Sagβ€˜ai – from Saudi Arabia.
Saidy (Saidi) – soft, very sweet, these are popular in Libya.
Sayer (Sayir) (Arabic: ‘common’) – these dates are dark orange-brown, of medium size, soft and syrupy.
Sekkeri – (lit. sugary) Dark brown skin; distinctly sweet and soft flesh, from Saudi Arabia.
Sellaj – in Saudi Arabia.
Tagyat – common in Libya.
Tamej – in Libya.
Thoory (Thuri) – popular in Algeria, this dry date is brown-red when cured with a bluish bloom and very wrinkled skin. Its flesh is sometimes hard and brittle but the flavour described as sweet and nutty.
Umeljwary – in Libya.
Umelkhashab – Brilliant red skin; bittersweet, hard white flesh (Saudi Arabia).
Zahidi (Arabic: ‘[Of the] ascetic’) – these medium size, cylindrical, light golden-brown semi-dry dates are very sugary, and sold as soft, medium-hard and hard.

July 17, 2008 Posted by | Community, ExPat Life, Food, Friends & Friendship, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 16 Comments

Morning Reflections

I am sure you have noticed that I have not been taking any sunrise photos lately; one problem with summer is that the sunrises tend to go flat. There may be no horizon, there may be dust and haze, or one sunrise just looks exactly like the day before.

Not this morning! This morning, the Gulf had alternate patches of glass and wave activity, making for an unusually reflective and glorious sunrise:

July 17, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, sunrise series | 8 Comments

Weight Loss: Fat Burning Beads

I could not believe my eyes. Would you buy these beads? You can read the entire story at BBC Health News.

‘Fat-burning’ bead marketing ends

A company that said its “fat-burning” beads triggered “automatic weight loss” has agreed to stop marketing in the UK.

One claim suggested that Accu-Slim Beads worked “faster than total starvation” by placing one bead behind each ear.

The Office of Fair Trading (OFT) sought assurances from Global DM Licensing, based in Hong Kong, that it would stop mailings being sent to UK consumers.

The OFT says thousands fall victim to claims about weight loss products.

Misleading claims
The company, using the name The AccuSlim Centre, claimed the beads were “fat burning acupuncture without needles, diets, exercise or effort”.

It claimed that users could eat as much as they liked but still lose 30lbs in 30 days, as the bead stimulated acupressure points that led to automatic weight loss.

The company claimed guaranteed results and charged Β£65 for a package of up to 120 beads.

OOps – I just noticed that they only have to stop marketing these beads in the UK. So if someone approaches you on the streets of Kuwait offering to sell you fat-burning beads (wouldn’t you feel like punching someone who thought you needed fat burning beads?) DON’T BUY THEM! THEY DON’T WORK!

July 16, 2008 Posted by | Cross Cultural, Diet / Weight Loss, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Humor, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Social Issues | 20 Comments

Three Cups of Tea

My best-friend-from-college and I were chatting the other day and I asked her “what are you reading?” because we have always exchanged book recommendations back and forth.

“I’m reading a biography of Teddy Roosevelt,” she started, and I groaned, because most of the time biographies don’t interest me that much. “And I am reading Three Cups of Tea . . . “ and I interrupted her (rudely) to exclaim “so am I!”

Three Cups of Tea is a must-read in the US. It was actually published in 2006, and has sold more and more books every month, and has been on the New York Times best seller list almost since it was published.

The book begins with a failure. A mountaineer, attempting a climb on K2 runs into problems, including evacuating two severely injured fellow climbers from the mountain. Exhausted, and devastated by his failure to capture the summit, he gets lost on his way back to the base camp, and ends up in a village where the people are very kind to him. He is treated as an honored guest, he regains his strength, and on his last day in the village, learns the children have no school. He rashly promises to come back and build a school for them.

One of the great redeeming features in this book is Greg Mortenson’s endless humility. He has a co-author, to whom he gave a long list of people he could talk with, including all his enemies and people who thought he was crazy. He’s that kind of guy. He talks about his life’s personal failures and his toughest moments, and he moves on.

He doesn’t take credit for the dogged persistence with which he keeps his promise, in spite of daunting obstacles. He doesn’t take any credit for the good will he builds.

Several years ago, I read another book which has changed my life, The Purpose Driven Life (which, by the way, the hardcover is $9.99 and the paperback is $10.19, go figure) in which the basic premise of the book is that we are each created uniquely, individually, by a loving creator, for a purpose. As I read Three Cups of Tea, I thought this man is greatly blessed; he discovered his purpose and nothing kept him from fulfilling it!

The book deserves every single one of it’s Amazon Five Star ratings.

I had a hard time putting the book down. Even though my life is full of other demands, once I had the chance, I spent an entire afternoon finishing this great book.

Greg Mortenson isn’t discouraged that his first school takes three years, and first he has to build a bridge. His second, third and fourth schools take just . . . three months! He has a gift for inspiring others, and people give what they can. The villagers give their time and their efforts, and western supporters donate funds.

By the end of the book, 24 school have been built, in the very poorest mountain villages in Pakistan, where money from the government for education doesn’t trickle at all, until near the end of the book. He doesn’t build the schools himself – he meets with the villagers, they donate a plot. He buys the materials, and together, they all build a school. These villagers are hungry for their children to become educated, to have a chance for a better life. Mortenson learns to focus on the girls.

He learns that as the boys become educated, they leave the villages for the city, but as the girls become educated, they come back, and like yeast, they raise the standard of living for the entire village, providing health care services and information, providing education for the newest crop of children, learning new skills, bringing them back and sharing them.

One of Mortenson’s gifts is that he isn’t interested in changing these mountain people into westerners. He likes them, and he learns from them, just the way they are. He dresses like them, he prays with them, he learns their language, and he has no western agenda for the curriculum in these schools. He also helps the government schools – building an additional room here for an overflowing school, paying a teacher’s salary there – his goal is to educate children. That’s it. No political agenda. The people of the villages love him for it, and give him their full support.

You cannot undertake a project like this without a lot of help. Mortenson had some extraordinary experiences, experiences that to me look like the grace of God, that drew together teams of people to help build and supply his schools.

“I looked at a sign in front of the school and saw that it had been donated by Jean Hoerni, my cousin Jennifer’s husband,” Bergman says. “Jennifer told me Jean had been trying to build a school somewhere in the Himalaya, but to land in that exact spot in a range that stretches thousands of miles felt like more than coincidence. I’m not a religious person,” Bergman says, “but I felt I’d been brought there for a reason and I couldn’t stop crying.”

A few months later, at Hoerni’s memorial service, Bergman introduced herself to Mortenson. “I was there!” she said, wrapping the startled man she’d just met in a bruising hug. “I saw the school!”

“You’re the blonde in the helicopter,” Mortenson said, shaking his head in amazement. “I heard a foreign woman had been in the village, but I didn’t believe it.”

“There’s a message here. This is meant to be,” Julia Bergman said. “I want to help. Is there anything I can do?”

“Well, I want to collect books and create a library for the Korphe School,” Mortenson said.

Bergman felt the same sense of predestination she’d encountered that day at the school. “I’m a librarian,” she said.

After struggling for many years, seeking donors who would help to build a school, Mortenson now has a foundation eagerly supported by many Americans, and especially the mountaineers, who continue to build schools. At the end of the book, the foundation is moving into the poorest sectors in Afghanistan, and building schools there. They have children’s programs in many of the schools in the United States, where children donate pennies to help pay for books for the schools, and for the teacher’s monthly salaries, where salaries are not reaching the teachers. You can donate to the school building fund, teacher’s salaries and books using your credit card, online, at the website Three Cups of Tea. You can order this book there, too, as well as music CD/s and learn more about the work being done.

July 14, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Books, Bureaucracy, Community, Cross Cultural, Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Fund Raising, Health Issues, Living Conditions, NonFiction, Pakistan, Relationships, Social Issues | , , | 15 Comments

France Rejects Veiled Muslim Wife

From BBC News: Europe

France rejects veiled Muslim wife

A French court has denied citizenship to a Muslim woman from Morocco, ruling that her practice of “radical” Islam is not compatible with French values.

The 32-year-old woman, known as Faiza M, has lived in France since 2000 with her husband – a French national – and their three French-born children.

Social services reports said the burqa-wearing Faiza M lived in “total submission to her male relatives”.

Faiza M said she has never challenged the fundamental values of France.

Her initial application for French citizenship was rejected in 2005 on the grounds of “insufficient assimilation” into France.

She appealed, and late last month the Conseil d’Etat, France’s highest administrative body which also acts as a high court, upheld the decision to deny her citizenship.

July 13, 2008 Posted by | Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, France, Living Conditions, Social Issues | 15 Comments