Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

The Majliss in Doha

When we lived in Doha the last time, we often brought people to The Majliss. Most Americans had never been there, never knew it was there. It is off Al Sadd – if you are going from C Ring to D Ring, you turn right at the Kentucky Fried Chicken and stay on the slip road that goes in front of the stores. At the second possible right, you turn right, and you will see the Royal Tandoor on your left, and The Majliss on your right.

There two really great things about The Majliss. First, the food is really, really good. Second, they have a bunch of individual rooms where you can sit on the floor, majliss style, with cushions and a big, low table. Some rooms are small, some are large enough for maybe 12 – 14 people.

They also have booths, some that have curtains you can pull if you need privacy, like if you are a woman wearing niqab and you want to eat without people seeing your face. They also have booths without curtains, and a more open area where mostly just men eat.

There was a time when soldiers would come here from Iraq, and you could sort of check them out like library books to take out for dinner, or to the malls, or to your house. We often took them to the Majliss, and it always blew them away, it was such a great experience. The Majliss is also where we took our son and his wife when they first came to visit us in Doha. We have so many happy memories at The Majliss.

This time, it was our visiting Kuwait friends, and since we all know what it is like to sit in a Majliss, and we all have older knees and hips, we chose to sit in a booth. Here is what is cool – our Kuwait friends loved it as much as our American friends do.

This was our first time back at the Majliss since our return to Doha. We worried that it had changed, deteriorated, that the food would not be so good as we remembered. We had a happy surprise – it is the same, but even better. 🙂

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I have to admit, one reason I love the Majliss is because they have Mohammara, made of walnuts and chilis and other good stuff. This one was really good, a little spicy!

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And oh, the fresh, hot bread . . .

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Now, I am embarrassed to tell you, when our main dinners came, I forgot to take photos until late . . . so this is where the delicious Majliss hammour used to be – my very particular and discerning Kuwaiti friend ate every bite!

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And here is what is left of my Shrimp machboos, before we gobbled the rest of it all up:

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And the kabob, just before it disappeared entirely!

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We were all so full, we didn’t even have room to order the creme caramel, which always comes swimming in caramel, yummmm. We had Turkish coffee and rolled ourselves out the door – stuffed!

Prices are reasonable, it is a great place for good local food at reasonable prices – the Michelin red “R” in Doha.

The Majliss

October 16, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Cultural, Doha, Eating Out, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Food, Living Conditions, Photos, Qatar | 1 Comment

Suq al Waqif Bird Market

As we were heading into the Suq al Waqif for breakfast Saturday morning (Yes! Several of the restaurants are open for breakfast!) we saw a man and his son, both carrying falcons.

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AdventureMan joked that they are hired by the administrators to walk around adding local color. We scoffed. Maybe someday, but for right now, these are still real people, with their own falcons. We know because our Kuwaiti visitor stopped them and asked about the falcons. They were so sweet and so delighted to tell us about their birds, and to allow us to photograph them:

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There was also a lively bird auction going on:

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What we love about the renovated market is that it is still a true market, where real people by daily items for use.

October 15, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Cultural, Doha, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Photos, Qatar, Shopping, Social Issues | , | Leave a comment

More Jewels from the Doha Museum of Islamic Art

More guests, and another trip to the Doha Museum of Islamic Art. I never tire of the place. Most of all, when I walk in, I just take a deep breath, breathe in the serenity.

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It doesn’t hurt that there is also a wonderful, clean ladies room.

Every time we are there, we see something new and wonderful, something that was there, but we hadn’t noticed before. Here are some things I saw this time:

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October 15, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Customer Service, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Public Art, Qatar | 4 Comments

Shifting Weather Patterns

Temp14Oct09

Last week, we had our first days under 100°F/38°C.

Last night, AdventureMan shivered and moved close to me.

“I’m cold” he said pitifully, putting his cold feet up against me.

It’s OK. I’m used to it. He is often cold, and I radiate heat. We pile the covers up on him and I sleep with just a sheet. I can’t sleep if I am too hot.

“There’s another quilt out on the loveseat” I tell him, referring to a piece of furniture about twenty steps away.

“Will you go get it for me?” he asked, his voice quavering.

We’ve been married a long time. I’m on to his tricks.

“No,” I laughed, “If you want another blanket, you have to go get it.”

“I don’t want to leave the bed,” he complained, and snuggled closely to me to absorb my heat.

This morning, at 0700, it is not even 80°F. Wooo HOOOOOO! There is still some humidity, but the afternoons are balmy, and there are evenings you can sit outside and drink coffee. Wooo HOOOO, my favorite season – Outside Season!

October 14, 2009 Posted by | Doha, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Humor, Living Conditions, Marriage, Qatar, Relationships, Weather | Leave a comment

Crab Cakes in Doha

We wanted to have a light dinner at home to welcome our house guests, and then take them on a night-tour of Doha. I remembered the wonderful Crab Cakes my friend and her daughter made in Seattle, and I was determined to have . . . well, I knew it wouldn’t be the same, but something LIKE those crab cakes.

So I found the best crab I could buy in Doha, and made up the crab cakes. Wrong crab. Wrong breading – I couldn’t find any panko (I know there is panko in Doha, I just know it, but I couldn’t find it when I was looking for it!) so I whirled up some lime Tostito chips in the food processor and used those.

They were actually pretty good, when I first made them. Not the same, not Pacific Northwest Dungeness Crab, but not bad.

This is four cans of crab meat – you can find the recipe for Crab Cakes by clicking on the blue type; I already printed it back in August or September.

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The crushed tostitos weren’t bad for breading, but you only use a little, on the outside, to help them firm up for cooking:

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I served them with Plum Sauce, which also wasn’t as good as the fresh home-made plum sauce my friend’s daughter made:

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They were OK. If I didn’t know what Pacific Northwest Crab tasted like, fresh out of the ocean and steamed right away, I probably would have thought they were pretty good. I’m not going to make them again here.

October 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Cooking, Doha, ExPat Life, Experiment, Food, Qatar, Recipes | 8 Comments

Karabaa in Transition

This post is for my friends not here, friends who often accompanied me on trips to Karabaa and all the funky magical shops we would find there. I dropped off the towels at the Mumtaz Tailor to be embroidered, English on one end, Arabic on the other, and while the devastation is no longer so gut-wrenchingly stunning as it was – I guess I am becoming desensitized – I can also see changes.

A lot of the rubble has been carted away. So it makes me wonder, is this what The Pearl is being built on? Is rubble from the old Suq al Waqif and these old buildings along Musherib and Karabaa going to the sea to become reclaimed land? If so, isn’t this going to boggle the minds of archaeologists a couple thousand years from now who are going to find all this stuff jumbled together and try to figure it out?

Yes, yes, it’s true, my mind does wander into trivial areas . . .

From the old parking lot, looking towards Karabaa where the honey man used to be:

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To help you know what you are looking at – remember the sign that shows people how to park? It’s still standing – so far 🙂

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I wanted you to be able to see just how high the pile of rubble is:

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All the rubble that was The Garden is now gone, as if it never was:

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OK, now, in the midst of all this noise and demolition, the rubble and the trucks and bulldozers, there is this oasis of serenity. I often see old men sitting outside on those old fashioned built-in-plaster seating areas, or on the bench. Inside, it looks like it might even be a home for old indigents, but sort of palatial, very green, and well kept up. Is there anyone who can tell me what this is?

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October 12, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Beauty, Building, Community, Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Living Conditions, Photos, Qatar | 3 Comments

Mexican Rouladen, Recipe and Photos

I had my menu all set, and then, when I went to the butcher, he said “No madam, we never do this. You will not find this in all of Doha.

If I had the time, I would go to “all of Doha” and prove him wrong. And oh-by-the-way, what is wrong with saying “we can do this for you and have it ready for you tomorrow morning at 0900?” something like that?? No, just “you will never see this in Doha.”

So I can spend my time grinding my teeth in anger, or running all over Doha to see if I can find what I need (flank steak) or . . . I can see what is available and do what I can with what is available. Fortunately, I see a familiar cut of meat, and I can work with it.

When I get around a group of people, I can’t concentrate. I am so focused on the conversation and the people, that if I have houseguests, for example, which I did this weekend, I can’t talk and get dinner on the table at the same time (even with help!)

My solution is to do everything possible ahead of time, and make lists, including what dishes I plan to use for serving, what times this needs to happen, and then that, and sequences. That way, the fact that my thinking process goes on hold means I am not facing total disaster.

I needed to have a lot of variety, so that if someone didn’t like something, there would be something else they might like.

I took an old faithful recipe, Rouladen, and reworked it for a Mexican theme dinner. The secret to successful rouladen is long, slow pre-cooking. It can be entirely cooked the day before and then re-warmed to serve when you need it. It takes what might be a tough cut of beef and renders it fork-friendly. You don’t even need a knife; it cuts easily with a fork and melts in your mouth.

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You pound the meat, especially on the edges, to flatten it and to tenderize it.

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You have the filler ingredients ready to go:

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Actually, I forgot to put the jalepenos inside, so I chopped up a few very finely and added them to the sauce – it turned out to be just the right thing. I like to start with just a teaspoon of Pesto, just to give it a little pop, and some already-cooked and crumbled bacon (this is turkey bacon, but any bacon will do.)

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You sprinkle the other ingredients lightly over the length of the roll, leaving about an inch all around for rolling and folding:

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When they are rolled, you put them closely together in a pot:

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This is key – you make up an acidic sauce – tomatoes, for example, are acidic. I use tomato paste, and tomatoes, and then you can add broth, or wine, or lemon juice – something to make it more liquid. You also add spices, in this case, chili and cumin for the Mexican flavor, plus, as I mentioned above, some very finely chopped jalepenos.

Then, you pop it into a slow oven – 350°F/180°C – and slow cook it three or four hours. That’s why you want it very liquid-y, so that the sauce won’t disappear during the long cooking, it will concentrate. Yummm!

No, I don’t have any photos of the finished dish. I was pretty busy. 🙂 The roulades shrink, and brown over the top, but remain fork-tender for eating when you heat them up (30 minutes at 350°F/180°C, until hot!)

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This is what one roulade on a plate looks like. They are much prettier when a bunch are all cooked up in the pan together, and I serve them right out of one of my Damascus copper cooking pots:

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October 11, 2009 Posted by | Cooking, Customer Service, Doha, ExPat Life, Food, Friends & Friendship, Living Conditions, Qatar, Recipes | 10 Comments

Suq al Waqif Coffee Shops closed

You gotta read the small items in the newspapers – that’s where a lot of the real news is. Today, in the Gulf Times is this tiny little article about shops being closed in the Souq al Waqif for serving shisha to underage people. Who knew? There is a legal age for smoking shisha?

Coffee shops closed

A number of coffee shops at the Souq Waqif were closed by the Doha Municipality for not complying with the health regulations, according to a report in a local Arabic newspaper.

The report said closure notices were put up by the municipality inspectors on the doors of the non-complying coffee shops.

Among the recently detected violations was the offering of Shish to teens under 18, which the report said, was in breach of the contracts signed by the Old Souq department and tenants of the coffee shops.

However, coffee shop managers at the Souq pointed out that asking customers their age could cause anger, particularly with female customers, who just opt to move to another outlet.

October 7, 2009 Posted by | Communication, Community, Customer Service, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Qatar | Leave a comment

Jaidah Flyover roadworks finish in five days

From today’s Gulf Times comes news that one of the worst current traffic snarls in town will be history in five days.

Do you believe it?

And now – how is the work on D-ring going? Any news on how soon it will be completed?

By Sarmad Qazi

The road works under the Jaidah flyover are expected to be completed in five days, an official said yesterday.
The busy junction leading to the Corniche and the densely-populated Musheireb area in one direction and to Ramada junction and the Salwa highway on the other was dug up towards the end of September for expansion work.

Read the whole article HERE

October 7, 2009 Posted by | Building, Bureaucracy, Community, Doha, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Living Conditions, Qatar, Safety | 2 Comments

Doha Museum of Islamic Art Wins Coveted Award

What I love the most about this award is that it takes into account the usage of local materials. It’s also something I love about The Pearl development; all those buildings and villas built on the rubble carted away from earlier demolition projects and turned into reclaimed land. 🙂 Re-cycling to the max!

Museum of Islamic Art bags architecture award
Web posted at: 10/6/2009 1:19:1
Source ::: The PENINSULA

Dubai: Museum of Islamic Art in Doha was awarded “Overall Project of the Year” at the 2nd Annual Middle East Architect Awards.

Qatar Museums Authority (QMA) was presented with the award, for the Museum of Islamic Art – Doha, at a ceremony hosted by the Middle East Architect magazine.

The annual ceremony is the most prestigious event dedicated to recognise outstanding architectural projects in the region.

The Museum of Islamic Art was chosen for its traditional design principles that use indigenous materials and processes and integrates them with contemporary technology to create familiar, functional and environmentally sustainable architecture.

Accepting the award on behalf of QMA, Omar Chaikhouni, Manager of Public Relations and Information said: “We are delighted and honoured to be recognised as the top overall project in 2009 among all the nominees from the region. The Middle East Architect awards ceremony is a great initiative and we wish it all the success in years to come.”

Organised by ITP Business Publishing, the lavish awards ceremony took place at the Westin Dubai with the presence of more than 200 leading professionals from the region’s architecture industry, including architects, developers, service providers, contractors and building owners.

The 2nd Annual Middle East Architect Awards set out to raise the profile of the industry and reward and recognise those that have made significant contributions to its development.

Ten awards were presented at the ceremony in categories that covered a number of fields, from infrastructure project of the year to mixed-use development of the year, and from engineering firm of the year to architect of the year.

The winners were judged by a panel of experts, which consisted of industry-leading academics, architects and engineers from around the Middle East.

October 6, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Building, Character, Community, Cultural, Doha, News, Public Art, Qatar | 3 Comments