British Isles: Belfast and the Days Run Together
I am laughing as I look at these photos, because I remember every day as being sunny. I don’t remember the early morning clouds. It almost always cleared off by noon. I don’t remember any rain, either, but I can see here in Belfast we did get a little rain. I think it happens more often than I would like to think. I would be willing to swear my memory is correct, and – it is not always.
We had anticipated and studied Chester. Belfast caught us by surprise. It looked so drab in all our looks at YouTube videos and trip reports, but it has become a vibrant, future-oriented city and one I could see living in.
I apologize for the quality of these photos, taken as best I can from a bus with rain-drop smeared windows. Below is a square in homage to the author C.S. Lewis. Under that is a statue of his lion from the Narnia series.
Our guide is Sean, and he is full of jokes, but also full of history, some old history, but most of it about the “troubles” and how the peace is working out. As it turns out, peace is very difficult. People have trouble learning to trust one another after all the years of shooting at one another, but groups are finding ways to work together on projects, and rubbing shoulders with one another helps reduce fears and prejudices, and helps contain small problems from becoming big problems.
Belfast Castle below:
We start looking for the nine cats hidden in the gardens:
Sean tells us that most of the flags and nationalist art is created by the working class, who are still living with some resentment of the ruling, more liberal class in power. Most building flying Palestinian flags are those of the soldiers and those protesting the status quo.
The art of those in power is mostly about sacrifice, and history of service. This art increases feelings of positivity and acceptance of the status quo. All of this was imparted to us without any indication of which Sean’s position.
We had not anticipated liking Belfast as much as we did. I spite of the divisions, there is a vibrance in having the devisions out in the open, and a commitment to working out the differences. Belfast is now one of the safest cities in the world. We visited a large university, very impressive, and I found myself thinking how wonderful it might be for one of our grandchildren to attend a university where people openly debate the significant political positions. It lends life and energy to upper-level studies when new and challenging ideas can be confronted and evaluated.
We met up with our friends back on the ship and shared our impressions. Our backgrounds are similar in some ways, very different in others, so we always have lively and entertaining discussions when we meet up. They have a substantial collection of Starbucks cups, and strive for one from each city. I like cups, too, but sometimes I want something locally made. I always love seeing what they find.
And Belfast reminds us of why we travel. We see a country perpetually at war over religion, culture, customs, and willing to try to kill each other. Now, they are putting in the hard work of reconciliation, trying to find common ground. It isn’t easy. I like that all voices are allowed to express themselves, and that it is a situation where compromises are emerging. No one gets everything they want, peace is not taken for granted, and they persist through the discomfort. Maybe we can learn something.
Sun setting as we leave Belfast.
British Isles: Dublin Uses Euros
We are already docked in Dublin when our alarm goes off. We had thought we would be caught up after a sea day, but no, we are not caught up and we have to meet early this morning for our excursion.
We are the first group off the boat, but it is more complicated because the boat is anchored, not docked. That means we will have the added adventure of being tendered, i.e. one of the smaller boats on board will ferry us to the docks where we will catch a bus which will take us into Dublin.
We are greeted by Sean, who is a great jokester. He looks at my ticket and my very Irish name and says “I should just hand the mike over to you!” ha ha. He had a lot of jokes, and kept us laughing all the way into Dublin where our first stop was the Cathedral of St. Patrick’s. He took us around, showing us tombs and chapels and restorations, and where the Knights of Saint Patrick were all seated, separately from other people, with their flags and helmets.
Below is a replica of the ships that took the Irish to the New World during the famine. Below you will also see statues representing the emaciated immigrants seeking shelter in our country. It is a chilling exhibit. It reminds me of the words on the base of the Statue of Liberty – “give me your tired, your poor.”
Back on the bus for a short drive around, then out to the American Ambassador’s house (just a drive by) and a toilet stop – we’re that demographic. Back in Dublin, we pass great shopping stops and Trinity College to be let off at the National Gallery.
We could go back to the ship, but we’re in Dublin. We have tickets to tour the Dublin Castle, so we ask Google to help us get there – only a 19 minute walk.
We tour the castle, an inner city castle, more of an event venue. It’s full of paintings, most on the theme of Sheherezad and the beheading of John the Baptist – dark, gruesome paintings.
The sun is out, and it is a lovely day with a nice breeze. We limp over to the Cecil Beaton museum, where I have heard there is a lovely cafe/restaurant, and indeed, there is, The Silk Road. The restaurant is popular, full, but not crowded, there are tables inside and outside. You go through a line and choose a main course, then you have a choice of three sides.
AdventureMan was holding a table, I chose a lamb moussaka, and then a beet salad, a green salad and stuffed grape leaves. The plate was heaping. I took it to the table and AdventureMan liked the look of it and I invited him to share it with me (Please, AdventureMan!) as it was way more than I could to eat so he got a knife and fork and glass of water and it dish was plenty for both of us.
As a bonus, just across from The Silk Road was a gorgeous gift shop, with truly lovely offerings, unique and artistic and yes, a little expensive but this was not the junk of the gift shops we’ve been seeing, so we found some things we liked, and for gifts, and felt very happy.
AdventureMan got us back to the Viking Shuttle pick up point, and a bus showed up right away, with double decks so they could take a lot of us, and we drove back to the docks, where we tendered back to the ship.
AdventureMan pulled out our wine and cheese, cut off some pieces and we had a few quiet minutes out on the balcony with our feet up, before I had to go to the port talk for our upcoming visit to Holyhead.
I am ashamed to tell you that not long into the port talk, I started falling asleep.
We’ve been walking well over our 10,000 steps daily. One day it was almost 18K, most days are 14K-15K. In Dublin, it was 14K by mid-afternoon. I was truly tired. Fortunately when I told our old friends how tired I was, one said “I slept through half of the presentation.” I suspect a lot of us had problems staying awake; we are all in a demographic that may nap regularly back home.
I did take a short nap back in the cabin, waking when AdventureMan tapped me and said “Honey, I don’t want you to have problems sleeping tonight.” We got to the restaurant around the same time as our friends, and our conversation and laughter revived me.
This is our first cruise where we are traveling with friends. Not as a group, but we’ve met up. Sometimes we are on the same tour, sometimes not. Sometimes we attend the same lectures, sometimes not. We tend to meet up most nights for dinner, and occasionally for lunch. It has worked out well. We have lively discussions, interrupted by trips to the salad bar or soup or ice cream, we disuss what we’ve seen and how we feel about it. We discuss our feelings about how we are changing as aging adults, how our families are growing and changing. We never seem to run out of great topics. It has become a good part of why every day of this trip is one of our best days.
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