Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Morocco Malta and the Med: Revisiting Life in Tunis

Sunrise getting close to Tunis.

You may be a little hazy on where Tunisia is:

We recognize Carthage and Sidi Bou Said, but everything is so much more built up.

Saint Louis Cathedral up on the hill, we remember. Oh wow, Wikipedia tells me it is no longer a cathedral: Since 1993, the cathedral has been known as the “Acropolium”. It is no longer used for worship, but instead hosts public events or concerts of Tunisian music and classical music. Currently, the only Roman Catholic cathedral operating in Tunisia is the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul in Tunis.[1] Hunh. Acropolium.

We had exactly the day we needed in Tunis, thanks to this fine man, Noureddine Boukari. We found him through Tours by Locals, and he corresponded with us to determine exactly what we wanted to see and experience in our precious few hours in Tunis.

He was there to pick us up as we exited the boat. He took us directly downtown, along Habib Bourgiba to the Central Market and the souks as they were opening. It was a great beginning; the Central Market hasn’t changed much in forty years; people can still find the freshest fish and local vegetables as they do their daily shopping.

LOL this thrilled my heart!

This was so much fun for me – probably because as a young wife, shopping for food was challenging at first – buying by weight in the markets, always carrying our own bags to put our vegetables in. I have so many hilarious stories, mostly because I was so ignorant, and had to learn new ways.

Noureddine introduced us to friends who were shopkeepers, and they had a great time talking with AdventureMan.

As I type this up, I hear the words in French and Arabic for eggs, parsley, pumpkins – it comes roaring back, words I haven’t used in a while.

And we head for the souks, which are just opening. The whole medina area is SO clean now!

The Hotel Royal Victoria on the right used to be the British Embassy a long time ago, right at the main entry to the souks.

I didn’t do a lot of shopping on this trip, but I found in these souks a beautiful silk scarf hand woven in Mahdia for my daughter-in-law and a huge red sefsari in the old pattern for the woman who stays in our house and cares for the cats while we are gone, and who, like me, loves textiles.

These date pastries/cookies are so delicious. Noureddine is taking a box to his family.

Our chariot awaits. We drive around Tunis and arrive at the Bardo just as all the tour groups are leaving. Noureddine leads us through the centuries of mosaics. The Bardo is more beautiful and more organized than it was all those years ago.

The Bardo itself is a former palace. Now it holds priceless mosaics taken from ruins of houses built throughout Tunisian history (Tunis, Carthage, Dougga, Kairoan, Djerba – it is impressive.)

The imagination and the execution of the work is exquisite.

Below is an intricate ceiling.

View of Tunis from the Bardo Palace.

A treasure discovered with hundreds of gold coins and one silver coin (at the bottom).

Ancient Punic Gods. Some are really hideous.

This is the house where once we lived, but not in this house, in the house that used to be there. I am glad Noureddine found the address, but it is not the house where we lived. But it IS on the way to Carthage and Sidi Bou Said, and to a delightful lunch of bric, and couscous.

Brik!

Fresh fish, which Noureddine skilfully deboned for us.

Vegetable couscous. I’ve never tasted carrots as delicious as those grown in Tunisia.

We have a lovely walk around Sidi Bou Said before heading back to the ship.

On return to the Viking Saturn, as instructed, we had our shore passes out and ready to give to the official collecting them. But there was no official collecting them! No one was collecting them! We still have them! Just in case.

The sun is setting over Tunis.

As we sail away, a flock of gulls trail us, hoping for a hand out!

Just in case you are, like me a map person, this is a general idea of the route we took today:

January 14, 2025 Posted by | Adventure, Africa, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Birds, Bureaucracy, Civility, Cultural, Customer Service, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Restaurant, Travel, Tunisia | , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment