Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Sun Will Prevail

This morning, there is an unusual thick band of clouds low on the horizon, not those sulphery yellow-brown clouds of pollution, but a thick band of normal weather clouds. The sun managed to get a peek at the world on its way up, but after that, it’s been a fight to break through.

00barelysunrise

I want you to see this cloud layer; it stretched from horizon to horizon:

00wallofclouds

You can see the sun is fighting valiantly to overcome these clouds, and rise above. This is Kuwait. I cannot imagine a day without sunshine (unless, God forbid, it is a dust storm.)

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It is only mildly cold this morning, and warming fast:

00temp063010jan

January 14, 2009 Posted by | ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, sunrise series, Weather | 4 Comments

Bu Yousef: Fancy a Date? Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

fancyadatebuyousef

Woo HOO, Bu Yousef! This is one great photo! I can almost taste the date, but even better – I love the gleam on the vendor’s face! More, please, Bu Yousef!

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Character, ExPat Life, Food, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Photos, Shopping | | 8 Comments

DaisyMae: Number 1 Entry in the Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

DaisyMae is our first challenger, with recent photos from the souks. Woo Hoooo on you, DaisyMae! Thank you for showing us the markets through your eyes.

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odiferous1

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WHO is next? Is it YOU? 🙂

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Cross Cultural, Cultural, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | 3 Comments

Odd Couple / Best Friends

I love this one, sent in today’s e-mails. Just the ticket to warm your heart on a cold Kuwaiti night in January 🙂

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Friends & Friendship, Interconnected, Living Conditions, Relationships | , | 4 Comments

NBK Scam Letter

This is a total hoot. Like I really have an account under the name “Intlxpatr”. My friends, if you get this letter, do not click on the blue type and go to the website which will LOOK a lot like NBK, but will not be NBK. DO NOT give them any information, none! If you have the slightest doubt, go to your bank directly, but do not give these identity thieves any information!

From: info@update.com

Dear valued Watani Online Bank member:

Due to the number of incorrect login attempts, your Watani Online Bank Account has been locked for your security.
This has been done to secure your accounts and to protect your private information.
In case the login attempts were not done by you..
At Watani Online Bank we care about your security .
So, for your protection we are proactively notifying you of this activity.

If you did not trigger this lockout, follow this link to Log on to your Watani Online Account:
Click here to unlock your online account

Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.

We apologize for any inconvenience.

Thank you for using Watani Online Bank !

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Blogging, Bureaucracy, Crime, ExPat Life, Financial Issues, Kuwait, Lies | | 10 Comments

Sensitive to the Atmosphere (Sunrise 13 Jan 09)

Good morning, Kuwait, and a great morning it is. I could feel the change in humidity, I have this weird sensitivity to atmospheric pressure. I can feel some changes – like in Florida when a thunderstorm is building, I can feel SO depressed, suicidally depressed for no reason, and as soon as the storm starts storming, it’s gone, just like that.

Yesterday, I had an almost-headache, the atmospheric kind. I got up with it and by noon it was gone. Today – not a thread of pressure left. It’s another great day in Kuwait.

It is, theoretically, cold again, but because of the low himidity, it actually feels warmer than yesterday, when the humidity carried the cold into my bones.

00wea13jan09

And it is going to get colder, and then jump warmer:

00forecast13-18

I can’t stay home in this weather. Not a cloud in the sky, good sweater day, great driving day, great day to be outside. Have a great day, Kuwait!

00sunrise13jan09

January 13, 2009 Posted by | ExPat Life, Living Conditions, sunrise series, Weather | 1 Comment

The Great Kuwait Market Magic Photo Challenge

OK my friends. You know how this works. There is no great prize, except the thrill of the hunt, and the sharing with those who share your passion. And before we go on, I want to give credit to Yousef, at Some Contrast who took some truly fabulous photos at the Souk Mubarakiyya last week and wrote up a delightful article about it.

Today, the Great Kuwait Market Magic Photo Challenge kicks off. I would limit it to Mubarakiyya, but if I did, I might miss the magic YOU see in the Sharq market, or one of the fish markets or . . .

The weather is gorgeous. The lighting is fabulous. Go forth and capture the magic of the market. Send your photo to me and I will publish it here. Or you can publish it on your blog and tell us in the comments section of this blog entry, if that is your preference. The deadline will be January 31st, and I will post a poll so we can all vote on our favorites.

WOO HOO on you, Kuwait photographers.

I have a thing about bread, so here is what inspired this post:

00fatayrman

This man, in the Mubarakiyya food court near the mosque, makes fatayer that I think are to die for. You can sit outside in the warmth of the Kuwaiti morning, and sip a little tea with mint and one of these fatayer (we like halloumi and zatar) will more than take care of your morning treat. 🙂

00mubbreadinoven

For about one month of the year, being the man who puts the bread in the oven – it’s done by hand, for those of you who don’t live here – must be a joy. The rest of the year, I can’t begin to imagine . . .

00turkishfatayr

This is a more modern oven, but it still looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel, doesn’t it? (Hansel and Gretel is one of many particularly gruesome “fairytales” children in the West are raised with. There are many horrifying tales – read the Grimm brothers. Wicked parents, wicked stepparents, a horror filled life for children.)

Back to the topic – go forth, Kuwait, and show us what you see in the markets!

January 12, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | , | 16 Comments

Happy Birthday Sunrise

I have a friend who had a birthday yesterday. I kept the secret. Well, I told one other person, but she also kept the secret, doesn’t that count? This sunrise is dedicated to my good friend, may God richly bless you in the year to come, in every way that matters to you.

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Our place is very cold this morning, I am all wrapped up. The Qatteri Cat only slept with me the second half of the night, so I should have figured out that it is warmer, but I was surprised to see just how warm it is. These weather readings are, as usual, from Weather Underground: Kuwait:
00wea12jan09

That’s a huge jump in temperatures, and I am glad I checked so I won’t be all overdressed when I leave the house. That’s the good news. The bad news is, we have some cold nights coming:

00forecast5dy

Well, bad news if you don’t like the cold. I am enjoying getting to wear some of my winter clothes!

Have a great day, Kuwait.

January 12, 2009 Posted by | Community, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Living Conditions, Qatteri Cat, sunrise series, Weather | Leave a comment

Freej Soeleh

“You’re going to LOVE this place!” AdventureMan crowed from two continents and an ocean away. Our Kuwaiti friends’ son had just taken him and his father to eat in this restaurant, and it was a great experience.

00fireejsueila

He was right. A couple months later, he took me there, and I loved it. It was a different experience for him, too, when he went with me, because with me, he could sit upstairs in the family section. 🙂

You would never guess a place so full of homages to Kuwaiti tradition would be next door neighbors to the Marina Mall. From some of the cabinets, you look directly over to the mall.

They make their own sweets, and very fine sweets they are. His huge pot is entirely copper, and he makes wonderful candies, which you can buy and take with you, and use for gifts – made in Kuwait!

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Pardon my indelicacy, but I love thoughtful decoration. This is the ladies room, and I am crazy about their huge bowl sinks – a wave to the past with the traditional sand and stone colors and materials:

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We have all the privacy in the world, although we are surrounded by families. By the way, this is not a great place for an intimate, romantic dinner. Children are everywhere, clearly welcome, and bouncing off the walls. It is noisy. (We don’t mind.) When you want a waiter, you press the call button on the wall next to the little windows, which open and close.

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At night – OK, this is hokey, but the truth is, I love it – they have a ceiling full of “stars”:

00fireejnightstars

One thing we really love is that you can get Kuwaiti foods here. We love trying different things. One of our favorites is the Fish at the Bottom of the Pot:

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Very shortly, pre-food food arrives – the beignets are light and sweet and irresistible:

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As you can see, the prices are reasonable:
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We have never ordered the camel milk:
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To get to the Freej Soeleh coming south on Gulf Road, turn in where you see that big old Kuwaiti Style hotel, I think it is the Al-Ghanim, and then take the first right onto what my friends call Salmiyya High Street. You take the last right going toward the Marina Mall just before the mall, which will take you right into a parking area. If you look on your right, you will see the Freej Soeleh.

If you are coming South on Gulf Road, take the exit that goes in front of Marina Mall and turn right just past the valet entrance to the Mall. You will see a parking lot – and the Freej Soeleh – on your left.

You can take the elevator up to the second floor, if you are a family. If you are bachelors, you can take the escalator up to the first floor. The food is good in either place. The family section is more colorful.

If you go early – like noon for lunch, six-thirty/seven for dinner – you will walk right in. If you go later, when the Kuwaiti families stream in, you may have to wait, but they have a great waiting area, and you can watch the caramel man make candy.

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Please, my western friends, if you go, dress modestly. This is a family place; most women are in abayas. I have never seen another western family here, but then we are all in cabinets, so that’s not such a surprise. It is a gem of an adventure in Kuwait.

I apologize that there are no photos of the main courses. There is always SO MUCH food. It comes, there is a frantic trying to organize the table so it has enough room for everything, and it all smells so good! You tend to just dive in.

The one jarring element is that when you are having appetizers, the tabbouleh, the muttabel, the hummus, they bring a plastic bag of bread on a plate. . . I guess I get spoiled down at the Mubarakiyya market, where the bread is always freshly made . . . I wish they had fresh hot bread, but the food itself is GOOD.

January 11, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Cross Cultural, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Food, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 20 Comments

Kuwait Moonlight Magic

I should have guessed when I saw all the fishing boats gathering last night as the sun went down. As the day went all pink and lavender, and then deeper purple, you could see their lights bobbing not too far off shore.

Minutes later I cam back and was stunned – the moon was up, full and glimmering over the Gulf. It was magical.

“AdventureMan! Come look!” I called, because it is a great sorrow in our lives that many a full moon we have been in different cities. I don’t know why it matters to us, but it does. He will call me and say “there is a full moon tonight in Djibuti and we are not together!” or I will SMS him saying “there is a full moon tonight in Seattle, where are you?” There are times he will say “At least we are both on the same continent” or “At least we are both in the same time zone!” but it is still sad that we are not together. It matters to us, so to watch this great bright silver orb rise over the waters was a moment to be treasured.

There were wisps of clouds in the sky, so the moon is not sharp edged, but a little blobby. Nevertheless, it is a full moon and we are together. A good night to celebrate.

00moonoverkuwait

January 11, 2009 Posted by | Beauty, Communication, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Marriage, Photos, Random Musings | 4 Comments