Souk al Waqif: Men’s Souks
AdventureMan and I have a tradition, and that is we like to go shopping together before Christmas, helps him help Santa Clause with things to put in my Christmas stocking, and gives us precious time together in a relaxed setting.
So of course, we headed to our favorite place, the Souk al Waqif, where I discovered that the place I love the most to buy scarves – he always has things no one else has – was totally out of scarves! Well, he had six hanging up, but they were not special. I said “Where are the scarves??” and he laughed and said “Sold out!” and I said “Well that is good for you but not so good for me!” and we both laughed. He said he will be getting more early in January, but that is no help to Santa!
Then we wandered over into the older area of the souks, closest to Grand Hamad street. There is a new shop with beautiful misbah (worry beads) and unusual treasures. We wandered further, and came upon the falcon souk.
OK, I get it, the rest of you knew all about it, but I think because I usually go early in the morning, maybe this area isn’t open when I go – I have seen the seats outside, the majlis area, but I never saw the falcons before, not in the new souks. What fun! But aside from tourist women, there are no women in this area – the falcon souk, the camping souk, the hunting souk – these are very masculine domains, Guy Souks.
And they are equally lovely:
In this hallway, everything is giant. Hanging up above is a giant falcon glove, a giant falcon hood, and at the end of the hall, where the men with falcons are entering, are two gigantic falcon stands.
Look at this beautiful space! I think there are some offices around this space, as well as shops:
The camping and hunting souks have all kinds of tentings, bedrolls, washing up fixtures, etc, not so good for camping in the Pacific Northwest, but great for desert camping and hunting:
When the hardware souks and shoe repair souks were cleared out of the main street, I wondered where they had gone, and last night we found them. To my joy, I also found the scribes! I had been told they dispersed, went to various police stations to do their translations, fingerprints, etc. but last night I found them here! Right next to the police station! How have I missed them, all these evenings in the souks? I didn’t see them!
When first in Doha, where there is not one single modern hardware store, and before I had discovered my neighborhood hardware area, (remember, my secret vice is that I love hardware? and hardware stores?) I would go to the Souk al Waqif and start at one store saying “I need 3/4 inch masonry nails” and I would show them one. The man would leave his shop and take me to whichever of his buddies carried those nails. Or chains. Or bungee cords – they always had what I needed, or something close I could use. I’m glad to see the hardware shops are still there, along with the fishing and boating supply stores, and those huge pot and griddle stores.
Did you know Souk al Waqif had it’s own fire truck? Neither did we!
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nice photos… BTW how do you manage to get parking there… its always packed… next time i will take a taxi and go… i love the atmosphere there and also the restaurants… have you tried the ice cream joint there… its nice..
No! I promise you, there are always spaces! But if we are going on a Thursday or a Friday, we get there early, like between six and seven, and often we go down on a Wednesday, when there is no competition. You are probably more stylish than we are, arriving closer to eight, when parking gets more dicey. Another half hour and you can have our parking spot, LLOOLLL!
We do like ice cream, and have it now and then. Hubby prefers another brand . . .
Very interesting pictures and place!! I will be lost in these souqs, as I like shopping wired stuff. Why are those falcons in crowns? How come the sales people are in white hat and shirt collar white gowns that look different from the Kuwaitis’? Is this their casual clothing? So women can go there as tourists? Would it be better if I speak Arabic? Do you bargain when you buy things there? Do you think it would be OK if a couple of women go shopping without men (my husband does not like shopping in malls, but not sure about souqs)? What are scribes?
Sorry about so many questions… 🙂
LLOOLL, you are welcome to ask questions!
Nice pics… I want to see this falcon market next time I’m in Doha.
The plastic chairs in the second last photo have been designed, manufactured, sold and distributed around the world – to ruin our photos!
Polar Panda, somehow I missed your questions! I see them now.
The falcons are wearing hoods, it keeps them calm when they can’t see things that frighten them or make them want to hunt.
I think the salesman is maybe Omani; different nationalities wear their headgear in subtly different ways.
Women can go there as tourists.
Speaking Arabic is a courtesy. It’s always better to be able to say greetings, ask simple questions, order from menus and read the road signs in the local language. If you have a chance to learn some Arabic, it would be a really good thing. If you get to Kuwait, there is a place called the AWARE center where you can learn all about the language and culture. It’s very very good.
Women – like me – go here, there and everywhere all the time, without men. Your husband might like the souks, but you are safe there.
Scribes write letters for people who are illiterate, fill out official papers, take fingerprints, help people get through the residency process, etc.
Bu Yousef, bring your family. It’s a great place for everyone. 🙂
Thank you, intlxpatr for the answers.
I heard that Kuwaiti Government provides free Arabic lessons with professional teachers, maybe AWARE is one of the kinds?
I would like to learn read, write and speak Arabic.
HA! It’s so funny that this is one of the few place you hadn’t found yet, because it was on our City Tour when we visited in the spring during our recruitment trip to campus. It was hilarious, because I was 7 1/2 months pregnant, sweating my arse off, and finally had to shed my black blazer, leaving me in a sleeveless maternity top. We went upstairs–in a elevator!!–then into a small falcon shop, where an older man and his son offered us tea and talked with us a bit about the falcons. He was so kind and funny. He said, “You [meaning me] must drink two cups. One for you, one for the baby.” I’ll miss the souks when we leave Doha.
AcadeMama, I love that story. I have met some of the most gracious people in the world in Qatar and Kuwait. I love it that you are having some similar experiences. I love it that you said “he was so kind and funny.” And there you were, great with child, with your BARE ARMS in the souks! LLLOOLLL!
One time, in Qatar, I had three friends in the car and we headed north, and outside of Al Shamal, there was some roadwork being done. We also noticed at that point that we were being followed. A Qattari gentleman followed us for forty rough kilometers until the bad road turned into good highway, at which point he turned around and went back. He was like a guardian angel. Priceless.