Here There and Everywhere

Christmas Markets on the Elbe: Treasures of Dresden

We were already underway when I woke up, on our way from Meissen to Dresden. Along the way, we heard a musical salute and knew we were passing Beyla’s sister ship on the Elbe, the Astrid, headed from Prague to Berlin. She is the only ship we passed the entire five days cruising on the Elbe, other than ships passing in the larger cities.

Our bus did a tour of Dresden neighborhoods, which also allowed for some history, and then got to the Zwinger and the old city of Prague. We toured the museum full of wonders (it’s an amazing thing to be a king, to contract wonderful works of gold and baroque pearls, crystal, cut gems, silver – and the largest green diamond in the world.)

I found Dresden to be an elegant and spirited city. The total destruction of the city by the Allied bombers toward the end of WWII, when it was already clear that the war was almost over, was devastating. Years later, there was rubble everywhere. The citizens of Dresden had hidden many of the city treasures in cellars, in the ground, in all kinds of places, and although many were plundered, some fabulous pieces still remain. I’m inspired to re-read Vonnegut’s Slaughterhouse Five.

Dresden has rebuilt. Much of what looks old is actually rebuilt, re-using the rubble remaining after the bombing. This is what I mean by spirit. Years after the Russian occupation and the dreary years of the GDR, Dresden is like a phoenix rising out of the ashes, glorious, and incorporating the old to build the new. I admire that spirit.

The Dresden Opera house, made to look like the original, but much larger.

We heard the porcelain bell concert as the clock reached 10:15. Delightful! Impressive!

This is the Zwinger Palace courtyard; I don’t show the courtyard because the gardens are all torn up. Even with the snow cover, it is a mess.

Imagine being a ruler with so much wealth to spend on these luxurious objects.

This carved ivory piece reminds me of the design of the iconic Kuwait water towers.

LOL you get a chance to see my clunky walking shoes. I’ve been wearing them on every tour since Sans Souci. They keep me comfortable and safe.

A huge green diamond

As we left the museum, we told our guide we would not be returning to the ship with the group, and we took off, exploring the very crowded old Striezelmarkt, full of families and friends drinking gluhwein. One of the best places we found was a booth selling the wine we had found, a Saxon wine, Schloss Wackerbarth. We had a bottle with us on board the Beyla, and I really liked it.

That is a whole ox they are turning on the spit.

Dresden had some of the most unique shops and decorations we saw on the whole trip.

Took a lot of photos, bought nothing, and found a brewery serving duck where we had lunch. It was full of locals, and us. We were near a rowdy bunch, having a great time, and the two in Santa hats allowed me to take their photos. 

Leaving there, we found our way to the Medieval Christmas Market in the old stable area.

We had to pay 5 Euros each but it was worth it – the drama of kettle drums and the smells of oxen grilling, vendors of iron works being sold by the blacksmith, glassware sets, each unique and beautiful, medieval games, tankards of different kinds of hot brews, including one “gleubier” (we didn’t try it). Lots of kids, lots of fun going on, consumed players, a lot like a Medieval Knights Tournament or Renaissance Fair. 

That’s a huge rocking pig the children are riding.

Then on to the Frauenkirch market, very similar to the non-medieval markets, but where we were able to access a cash machine for our daily allotment of Euros. 

From there, a ten-minute slippery walk to the boat as the snow became heavier and we became happier to be going inside to a warm place. We have good weather gear, but after a while, the wind finds its way to your bones, especially when the humidity goes up and the temperatures go down.

Dresden interests me. Of all the places we have visited, this is the place I want to come back for a longer visit.

The boat is lovely and warm, and we are happy we did all that we did today, and equally happy now to settle in. We need to finish the Schloss Wackerbarth wine we bought in Berlin before we leave the ship in Shandau, so we will fill our glasses and take them to the port talk tonight.

December 29, 2023 - Posted by intlxpatr | Advent, Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Cold Drinks, Cultural, Entertainment, Germany, History, Restaurant, Travel, Weather | Beyla, Dresden, Elbe, Green Vault, Medieval Markt, Striezelmarkt, Viking Christmas Markets on the Elbe, Zwinger