Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Edmonds, Washington Street Gardens

In a time where states and counties and cities and towns are cutting back, I am infinitely grateful to my little home town that they find the resources to maintain the street gardens. In the town, you find huge baskets of flowers hanging from poles along the main streets (one of which is called Main Street, in true small town fashion). These are from the street level gardens; they are so beautiful.

Nearby, two of our favorite stores are side by side:

Woo HOOO, Half Price Books is having their annual Labor Day Sale, 20% off everything in the store. Like we need more books. 😉

September 4, 2010 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Books, Civility, color, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Gardens, Living Conditions, Travel, Values | 4 Comments

Just How Emirati Do You Have to Be? (Mixed Marriages)

Thank you, Little Diamond, for sending the article from The National. I totally love this article, and hats off to it’s author, Sultan Al Qassemi.

Mixed marriages bring strength upon strength to the UAE
Sultan Al Qassemi

Not too long ago, I boarded a plane in Dubai bound for the United States. There were a number of Emirati families on board, some of whom I recognised and greeted. After a 14-hour direct flight, we descended from the plane and made our way to passport control.

One Emirati family walked towards the line for US citizens and, in my naivety, I almost told them they were standing in the wrong queue. I hesitated, correctly it turned out. They were American citizens and obliged to stand in the US citizens section.

Many people who hear this story immediately assume that the mother was a foreigner. Not only is that incorrect – the mother is a true-blue Emirati – but she also works in the UAE government.

In the past week, I was reminded of this by an article in The National relating to mixed parentage. The Grand Mufti of Dubai, Dr Ahmed al Haddad, made controversial comments questioning whether there should be restrictions on Emiratis marrying outside their nationality.

In truth,a substantial number of talented Emiratis have been born to mixed marriages, a point that Dr al Haddad’s comments did not seem to take into consideration. According to one person who was present at the panel discussion, Emiratis from mixed marriages may have “mixed loyalties”. So are they Emirati enough?

Well, let us take a look at some of these Emiratis to find out. Ali Mostafa, the director behind City of Life, is the product of a mixed marriage. City of Life, which depicts contemporary life in Dubai in a powerful and realistic fashion, has become an international ambassador for the UAE after opening in Australia and Canada with a screening scheduled in Washington DC. Is its director Emirati enough?

Omar Saif Ghobash and Yousef al Otaiba, the UAE ambassadors to Russia and the United States respectively, both have foreign-born mothers and yet they serve the UAE with as much attention and dedication as any other Emirati ambassador. I have written before about how Mr al Otaiba has worked tirelessly on behalf of the country, in particular on the nuclear 123 agreement with the United States. Mr Ghobash speaks six languages and was heavily involved in bringing New York University to the UAE’s capital. Are they Emirati enough?

Razan al Mubarak is also a product of a mixed marriage. Her late father, like Ambassador Ghobash’s, gave his life for the country. Ms al Mubarak, in her roles as assistant secretary general of the Environment Agency – Abu Dhabi and managing director of the Emirates Wildlife Society, is busy protecting the country’s wildlife on both land and sea. Is she Emirati enough?

At Abu Dhabi’s strategic investment arm Mubadala, the chief operations officer, Waleed al Mokarrab al Muhairi, also happens to be chairman of Yahsat, Advance Technology Investment Company and Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi. But perhaps most importantly, he is credited with being “one of the principal architects behind the Abu Dhabi 2030 Economic vision”. And yes, Mr al Mokarrab comes from a mixed family.

Wael Al Sayegh is a writer, poet, translator and founder of the consultancy firm Al Ghaf, which delivers “inter-cultural induction programmes to multinational organisations serving the region”. Mr Al Sayegh has spoken to many multinational corporations about UAE culture and offered a Dubai perspective to foreign news outlets, including the BBC, during recent high-profile criminal cases. Is he Emirati enough?

Sarah Shaw, an Emirati whose biological father is English, currently works at the General Secretariat of the Abu Dhabi Executive Council and is a huge supporter of Emiratisation. Is she Emirati enough?

Other Emiratis from mixed families who have made substantial contributions include the director general of the Dubai World Trade Centre, Helal Saeed al Marri, the film director Nawaf Janahi and the columnist Mishaal al Gergawi, among many others.

There are examples in my immediate circle of Emirati friends who genuinely care about this country, not despite one of their parents being foreign born but perhaps because of it.

Should the UAE, and specifically Dubai, known for being hospitable and welcoming to people of all ethnicities, backgrounds and cultures, make our very own citizens feel unwelcome?

The truth is the UAE is a richer country because of these individuals of mixed backgrounds. What we should concentrate on is strengthening the ties that people have to this great nation. I have previously suggested military service for Emirati high school graduates, cultural immersion and social volunteering as ways to build civic participation.

Frankly, it would be insulting to question the loyalty of Emiratis who are born to a foreign parent. It is also unfair, un-Islamic and ultimately in this case un-Emirati to generalise about people of any background. The Emirates is a vibrant country of many colours – only seeing a single shade excludes too many of its strengths.

(The author, Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi is a non-resident fellow at the Dubai School of Government)

August 29, 2010 Posted by | Civility, Community, Cultural, Family Issues, Generational, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Marriage, Mating Behavior, Middle East, Relationships | 6 Comments

‘Some Just Like to Hate’

I am receiving hateful e-mails; e-mails claiming Barack Obama is really Muslim, and that Muslims are trying to take over America. Sometimes I wonder how well my friends really know me? Sometimes I wonder how well I know my friends, that they would be so nice and kind as I know them to be, and so rabid in their hate-filled beliefs?

When I found this article today in AOL News it comforted me . . . that this round of Anti-Islam is no where near so mindless and destructive as the hatred of the Catholics, of the Mormons, of the Jews. I can only hope that this too, shall pass.

I work at changing perceptions one person at a time. The most common question I get about living in Jordan, Tunisia, Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Kuwait is “Weren’t you scared?” and I laugh, and point out that the crime rate in Pensacola is much higher, and that the risks of my walking alone in any of those countries was much less than here.

I tell them about my time with women in those countries, the many kindnesses I received, the fun we had working and playing together. They know I am religious. It puzzles them that I can find being around people so different from me comfortable. I tell them how we share values, how being around religious women from Qatar is easier than being around non-believing American women. It’s the stories that make the difference. I can understand why Jesus spoke so often in metaphors. You have to find some way to explain that people can understand, some way they can visualize and connect to what may seem alien and strange.

Andrea Stone
Senior Washington Correspondent

WASHINGTON (Aug. 19) — Are Muslims the new Jews? Or Irish Catholics? Perhaps Mormons? Or are they really the war on terror’s Japanese?

Religious experts and historians say: all of the above.

The still-unfolding controversy over plans to build an Islamic center near ground zero is just the latest chapter in a long saga of religious and ethnic misunderstanding that experts say goes back to the nation’s earliest days.

Fear of foreigners dates to the Alien and Sedition Acts of 1798, which were aimed at French immigrants suspected of disloyalty, said American University historian Allan Lichtman. “Then it was the Irish, the Germans, and the Catholics, and the Jews,” he said. “These waves of xenophobia are as American as apple pie unfortunately.”

Despite the appeal of blaming the overheated rhetoric over the dispute in lower Manhattan on the still raw emotions left over from the Sept. 11 attacks, antipathy toward Muslims predates the furor around the proposed Park51 Islamic center.

A Gallup Poll conducted late last year found 43 percent of Americans admit to feeling some prejudice toward followers of Islam. That’s more than twice the number who feel that way about Christians, Jews or Buddhists.

Acts of vandalism against mosques are rising. Plans to build new ones sprout not-in-my-backyard protests and even calls to outlaw them. Muslim women complain that bans on head scarfs trample their religious rights. In Florida, congressional candidate Allen West, who has been endorsed by Sarah Palin, has said Islam is not a religion but “a totalitarian theocratic political ideology.”

Blogs such as Stop Islamization of America and Creeping Sharia have helped lay the foundation for the controversy. And the culture war promises to grow even hotter. A fundamentalist Christian pastor who describes Islam as “of the devil” has called for an “International Burn a Quran Day” to mark the ninth anniversary of 9/11 next month. A more mainstream minister, Franklin Graham, was booted from a prayer service at the Pentagon, where Muslim prayer is welcome, after he called Islam “evil.”

Yet is any of this new? While nearly one in five believe, incorrectly, that Barack Obama is a Muslim, this is not the first time a president has been suspected of lying about his religion. Anti-Semites and Nazi sympathizers spread false rumors in the 1930s that Franklin Delano Roosevelt, a mainline Episcopalian, was Jewish.

The latest debate reveals “the dark underbelly of the American psyche,” said Boston University religion professor Stephen Prothero, author of “God Is Not One: The Eight Rival Religions That Run the World–and Why Their Differences Matter.” “We keep imagining that we’ve outgrown our religious bigotry and we haven’t. It keeps getting tested for each new religious group.”

Everything old is new again

Scholars liken today’s Muslim bashing to similar episodes in American history. In the 19th century, the nativist Know-Nothing Party wanted to prevent immigrants, especially Irish Catholics, from coming to America. Prejudice against Mormons forced them to flee west to Utah. Anti-Semitism spawned lynchings as, of course, did racism.

In 1924, Congress clamped down on immigration from eastern and southern Europe — home to such “undesirables” as Italians and Jews — as well as all of Asia. And after the attack on Pearl Harbor, more than 110,000 Japanese-Americans living on the West Coast were forced into internment camps for the duration of World War II.

Today’s debate over the mosque “is very mild compared to some of these previous episodes,” said John Green, a University of Akron political scientist who studies religion and politics. He notes that religion, ethnicity and race are often conflated to produce a conflict between new groups and old groups.

“Each of these episodes has its unique circumstances,” he said, “but they appear to be most severe when the unpopular group is linked to national security and the definition of the nation. 9/11 is a good example and many of these episodes were associated with wars. Other were linked to other crises like state rights, civil rights, immigration and communism.”

Louise Cainkar, a Marquette University sociologist, sees similarities to anti-German sentiment during World War I and against the Japanese in World War II but says neither were as “strong or pervasive” as the feelings about Muslims. The only thing that comes close, she said, was the anti-Catholic movement of the 19th century that lingered in a less-virulent form until 1960, when presidential candidate John F. Kennedy had to affirm publicly that he would take no orders from the pope.

Religion and politics have often mixed in America, with uneven results. After 9/11, President George W. Bush rejected the formula that Islam equaled terrorism and spoke out loudly in favor of religious tolerance. In the current debate, political rhetoric has ranged from far right to moderate middle to wishy-washy to impassioned.

But Prothero was struck by two reactions “by politicians who should know better” — Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid and Republican presidential hopeful Mitt Romney. Both men oppose the proposed Islamic center in lower Manhattan and both are Mormons.

“It’s unconscionable and frankly shocking that any Mormon would speak on this issue the way Romney and Reid have spoken. Don’t they remember that the founder of their religion was assassinated by an anti-Mormon mob?” said Prothero, who also wrote “Religious Literacy: What Every American Needs to Know — And Doesn’t.”

Yet he said the men are typical of Americans who live in one of the most religious countries on earth but are “astonishingly ignorant” about religion. He noted that Imam Faisal Abdul Rauf, who heads the Cordoba Initiative behind the proposed Islamic center, is a Sufi. Sufism is a tolerant strain of Islam that Osama bin Laden and al-Qaida consider an infidel religion and whose shrine in Pakistan was recently the target of a double suicide bombing.

“I find the lack of memory frightening,” Prothero said. “This is a classic moment when it helps to remember something about American history – that our freedoms have been hard won.”

Muslims in America

Akbar Ahmed, chairman of the Islamic studies department at American University and a former Pakistani diplomat, visited 100 mosques in 75 cities over the last year for his new book, “Journey Into America: The Challenge of Islam.” What he found in interviews with Muslims and non-Muslims, native-born and immigrant, was a common feeling of being under siege from a faltering economy, natural disasters and two wars at a time when the first non-white president in history “has become a lightening rod for everything that is going on in America.”

But he said the controversy “is not just about one mosque, although that is a very special and sensitive one because of 9/11. It is much more.”

Ahmed said Muslims haven’t had the chance to go through “the process of Americanization that successive waves of immigrants” did before them.

When the Immigration Act of 1965 opened the door for the first time to people from Third World countries — many of them Muslims — the doctors, lawyers and engineers who came “flew straight into the American dream,” Ahmed said. “Nobody challenged them. They didn’t go through the century-long process that Italians and Jews did” to be accepted. But when 9/11 happened, “People said, ‘Who are these Muslims? We don’t know anything about them’ ” and some quickly equated the 19 hijackers with all Muslims in America.

“Some Muslims have been here five generations,” Ahmed said, “but today they are all under a cloud.”

Cainkar, author of “Homeland Insecurity: The Arab American and Muslim American Experience after 9/11,” noted that Arabs have lived in America for more than a century but anti-Arab feelings intensified only after the Six-Day War in 1967 and have since combined to inflame ill will toward Muslims. Today, she said, those speaking out against the proposed mosque are motivated by more than just religious beliefs.

“Some have foreign policy interests. Some think a strong America means controlling Muslim movements and countries. Some support Israel and so understand that to mean opposing Muslims. Some have a conservative view of American society and think it should be Euro-American. Some don’t like people of color. Some believe Jesus is our savior and other religions are false. Some just like to hate,” she said.

“It is not really about Muslims at all — they actually know very little about them.”

August 20, 2010 Posted by | Charity, Civility, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Pensacola, Relationships, Safety, Spiritual | 8 Comments

Zeitoun by Dave Eggers

Do you remember being in university, and how when it came time to buy textbooks, the new ones were really, really expensive, and sometimes you couldn’t find it used and you just had to bite the bullet? Especially in political science and international relations, it didn’t take me long to figure out that many of the authors had one little idea, and they stretched it, kneaded it, elaborated upon it, made each different iteration a new chapter – but essentially, they took this one little idea, stretched it into a book and charged $30-$40 bucks for what might have made a good essay in Foreign Affairs or the New Yorker.

I often felt so cheated. I often find that when I look at the New York Times list of Best selling Non Fiction, most of the books look just like that.

When I bought Zeitoun, that day I just needed an escape, I didn’t know it was non-fiction. I had seen Zeitoun mentioned, even advertised in my very favorite magazine, The New Yorker. I fell in love with The New Yorker when I was a kid, even though I didn’t understand half of the comics, I thought they were hilarious. I still do. 🙂 When my New Yorker arrives, I read it cover to cover, and I often order books reviewed or recommended there.

I started Zeitoun shortly after watching the HBO series Treme´ about life just after Hurricane Katrina, so this book was timely and relevant. Zeitoun, a Syrian immigrant to the US whose wife is a Moslem convert, has a thriving painting and contracting business. When Katrina threatens, his wife and kids leave town, but he stays to watch over his multiple properties and businesses.

He survives the hurricane, and actually finds the change of pace enjoyable. He has a canoe he bought at a yard sale, and he rows around the neighborhood feeding dogs locked inside his neighbors houses, checking on his friends, rescuing stranded people or notifying rescue services where people need their help – he has a feeling he is exactly where he is meant to be, that he stayed on in New Orleans as part of God’s purpose for his life. He feels valuable and useful.

Then, one day, as he is checking on one of his rental properties, he is arrested, along with three friends, in the one house they know has water for showers and a working land line, which they all use to call their families. It is Zeitoun’s property. They are arrested by the National Guard.

One of Zeitoun’s friends, Nassar, has ten thousand dollars with him. Any of us who are expats can laugh – every expat has his cache of emergency escape money. Nassar, on hearing the hurricane was coming, withdrew his savings from the bank so it would be safe. The National Guard arrests them and takes all their money, wallets, identification and sends them off to jail, and in the chaos of post-Katrina New Orleans/ Louisiana bureaucracy, there is no paperwork and their families have no idea where they are.

Nassar and Zeitoun come into the worst of it, because they have Arab names, because of the large amount of cash Nassar has, and Homeland Security advisory that terrorist organizations could try to take advantage of the post-disaster confusion. It is seriously Kafka-esque; they are good men who are just in the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong last names. Most of the meals served in the prison contain ham or bacon or pork. The system just stops working, and they never even get to telephone people who could clear their names and get them out.

I couldn’t stop reading. Eggers captures the sensual aftermath, the sewage, the foul water, the stink of rotting food and rotting bodies, and the bureaucratic nightmare of trying to prove you are innocent when you don’t even know the charges against you, and people are being picked up on mere suspicions.

While Zeitoun is eventually released from prison, and his construction and painting business flourishes, his family is not left untouched by the post-traumatic stresses the events surrounding Katrina. Every life resounds with the impact of Katrina and the damage inflicted on New Orleans. His friend Nassar never got his ten thousand dollars back.

I love books about people who come to America, create a business, and make a go of it. Zeitoun is one of the best – he isn’t afraid of hard work, and he loves his life and family. His story is well worth a read.

Zeitoun is available from Amazon.com for a mere $10.85 plus shipping, and while I own stock in Amazon, I don’t get any kind of payment for mentioning them in reviews. 🙂

August 2, 2010 Posted by | Adventure, Books, Bureaucracy, Character, Civility, Community, Counter-terrorism, Cultural, Environment, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Hurricanes, Law and Order, Living Conditions, Social Issues, Weather | 7 Comments

The Edmonds Bakery

I found it. I found the perfect cake. It was nothing like the cakes I auditioned. I found it in my hometown, Edmonds, Washington.

Edmonds is a quiet town, once the sun goes down. On weekends, it can be crowded and lively, and yesterday the sign telling cars lined up for the ferry said the wait would be about two hours. There is a movie theatre, which is small and homey, but plays first run films. It is playing Inception now. Edmonds is full of cool stores – a cheesemonger, several travel stores, home / kitchen wares, and is also home to Rick Steve’s Europe Through the Back Door.

My very first stop is The Edmonds Bakery.

I love this place. I even love that it is closed on Sundays, even when other stores are open, even if it inconveniences me, I love it that they take their day of rest.

Mom is coming home from rehab today. No, no, I know how that sounds, but she has been recuperating from breaking her wrist. It is also her birthday tomorrow, so it is a double celebration, and Mom loves Maple Bars. The Edmonds Bakery makes great maple bars. In fact, they bake all kinds of wonderful treats, cinnamon rolls, pecan rolls, apple danish, snails, twists – every good thing baked with sugar and fat, they make it.

And there in the window, advertising wedding cakes, I found it. I found the perfect cake for September 6th, the blogging anniversary. It’s the one in back, the white one with the black filigree decor. Sort of Spanish looking – it’s the Arab influence. 🙂 I like them both, black and white, whoda thunk, but the filigree wins my heart.

There are booths and tables in the Edmonds Bakery, so if you are exploring Edmonds, or planning to take the ferry over to the Olympic Peninsula, take a minute to go in for a sweet and a cup of coffee. It’s the true taste of Edmonds. 🙂

By the way, if you go early, you will easily find a parking place, even on Saturdays. I went around 8:30, just as the Edmonds Market was cranking up. The weather was foggy and hazy and a mere 70° F / 20°, so take hoodie or a wrap with you. Seattle mornings can be refreshing (AdventureMan might call them chilly.)

August 1, 2010 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Civility, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Food, Living Conditions, Local Lore | 2 Comments

February Barnacles

I rarely miss a water aerobics class. The Y makes it easy, even if I oversleep, there is also a 0930 class, or if I’m feeling bad, there are also classes on Tuesday and Thursday. Since I’m going to have to make it up anyway, I just go. I rarely feel bad enough to stay home, and most things I can schedule for after my class.

Any kind of aerobics class is funny. I try to be friendly to everyone, because these classes can be a real pain in the patootie if there are cliques or snobs, it starts to feel like junior high all over again, and God knows, that was bad enough the first time. Life is too short.

But there is one spot I really like. I like to be in the back of the class, so I can exercise harder or differently and not confuse anyone else. I’ve been doing water aerobics for a while and sometimes while the rest of the class is doing cross-country, for example, I will do it off the floor of the pool, or do an extra kick on the jacks, things like that, so it just works better for me to be at the back of the class. I also like to be at a certain depth, not too deep and not too shallow. So . . . regrettably . . . I am one of those people who have a spot.

Sometimes if I am a little late someone else stands in “my” spot and I have to stand somewhere else. I don’t worry about it, people in these classes come and go, and I usually get to stand there. If I don’t, I am still OK.

There are two other women on the back wall with me, who are pretty much always in their same places, and we really do have a good time. I joke that we are the barnacles, stuck to the back wall. This morning, I complimented one of them on her earrings, and she said they were amethysts for February, and as it turns out, we all have birthdays within one week of one another in February – all three of us, within one week. What an amazing coincidence.

She worked us hard this morning, and it is a good thing, as I fly this afternoon for Seattle. Keep me in your prayers for safe travels, and travel mercies, please!

July 30, 2010 Posted by | Adventure, Civility, Community, Exercise, Pensacola, Random Musings, Relationships, Seattle, Statistics, Travel, Venice | Leave a comment

Panhandle Politicians

One of the things I liked best about living in Kuwait was the lively press. When the press has freedom – and freedom is always relative – people have to be more careful about what they do. Here, on a daily basis, the Pensacola News Journal has a crime section where they run crime news AND they list the daily felony arrests – who, what and where. I love it that they name names.

When I opened the paper this week, I thought I was back in Kuwait. There is a race for an open seat in the House of Representatives, and one candidate has just been arrested for trafficking drugs. Another candidate and his wife were videotaped sneaking out and stealing their opponent’s campaign signs. LLLOOOLLL. This is hilarious:

People think there are such huge differences between our countries. . . and yet we breed the same politicians, the religious fundamentalists, the ‘get-rich-quicks-by-lining-my-pockets’ kind of guys, the developers . . . it’s almost as if when you run for office, there has to be something wrong with you. It’s a sad day for democracy when these are our candidates. What a difference technology is making – it can help keep us honest.

July 29, 2010 Posted by | Adventure, Character, Civility, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Florida, Kuwait, Law and Order, Leadership, Political Issues | 2 Comments

When Royalty Comes to Dine

I know I dream, but most of the time I can’t remember. Most of the dreams I can remember are the equivalent to university exam dreams, you know, the dreams you have for years after you graduate about missing the class and having to take the exam? Most of the dreams I remember are packing dreams – it’s time to go, and I haven’t finished packing. Oh aarrgh!

Recently I had a different dream. This is so hilarious I can’t begin to figure out what it is about. Royalty is visiting in our town. Like English royalty, and I vaguely recognize Princess “Fergie” and Elizabeth I, they are all dressed in period costume and are sort of posed around looking royal.

I realize that no one has taken care of making sure they have events scheduled that honor them, so I invite them to dinner, and then for the rest of the dream, I am so busy trying to make sure that they are sufficiently ‘honored’ that I keep worrying about what I am going to do about dinner. No one seems to be at all concerned except me. The royals are all just looking royal, very good sports, but how am I going to be a good hostess – taking care of them now – and still get dinner on the table? I could order out, but I think they are expecting a home cooked meal? I am not living overseas anymore, where I might have hired help; this one is on me.

Fortunately, I wake up.

I don’t know why I can even remember this dream, most of all I remember the feeling that I have offered up something and I don’t really have the resources to keep my promises. Oh aaarrgh!

July 20, 2010 Posted by | Character, Civility | 7 Comments

OOops! Ops!

The silence tipped him off.

He had just finished referring to his study as “The Command Center.”

The silence continued, then I broke it, quietly asking “and just whom would you be commanding?”

“Ummm. . . err . . . Ops Center! Operations Center!” he corrected himself.

We both laughed.

We’ve been married 37 years. 🙂

June 6, 2010 Posted by | Adventure, Aging, Biography, Civility, Communication, Cultural, Family Issues, Humor, Marriage, Relationships | 9 Comments

The Alabama Muttawa

As we were driving into Alabama this morning (not such a big deal as it sounds, as we live right on the border of Alabama) we passed through Foley, where we found a large group of Alabama members of the committee to prevent vice and promote virtue:

They find a busy corner and parade their signs, hold up their Bibles, and read aloud from the bible to passing motorists. No switches to hit women in shorts or sundresses or swimming suits, no authority to tell people how to behave, only armed with conviction. It’s a very gentle kind of moral authority, encouraging people to make the right choice.

May 22, 2010 Posted by | Character, Civility, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Spiritual | 7 Comments