Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Donna Leon Crossing Cultures

I’m in the middle of a Donna Leon read-fest. When I wrote the reviews the last time, I saw three books by her I had never seen – and I comb the aisles of Barnes and Noble when I am in the US, and Half Price Books, looking for titles by her. I am guessing some of her books haven’t been printed in the US, but I was able to find them from the UK Amazon.com.

The two latest books I have read by Donna Leon are timely. The first, Fatal Remedies, starts out being about Commissario Guido Brunetti’s wife, Paola’s crusade against the sex tours to undeveloped countries, her outrage against trips that allow grown men to exploit the poverty and need that the poorest of families will sell their own daughters and even young children to satisfy these men’s uncontrolled lusts. Her outrage leads her to a jail cell in her own husband’s precinct.

But just when you think you know where this story is going, it turns, as many of Leon’s books do, and tackles another subject, one very much in the eye of the news – falsified medications. There is a huge profit to be made, and huge wrongdoings in the medical supplies field, as expired medications are shipped to the most needy countries, and prescription and over-the-counter medications contain ingredients that are at best, harmless, and at worst – poisonous!

Guido Brunetti follows the money, and exposes the cheats.

In the second book, The Death of Faith, the issue – corruption in the church – comes close to home, as Brunetti’s daughter gets a low grade from her religious education instructor for asking questions, logical questions, about the dogma of the Catholic faith. Leon also tackles the issue of the order of Opus Dei, the same mysterious order featured in The DaVinci Code, an order that does exist, but about which solid knowledge is murky. What is known is that the order, in jihadist fashion, seeks to establish the Catholic church as the supreme guide to behavior on earth, it’s own version of sharia law to be the ruling principle in every country.

This is an anethema to Commissario Brunetti, and to all thinking Italians who savor the separation of church and state. He asks the eternal question – who decides? Who decides what behavior is acceptable, what questions are allowable? Religious belief, or the lack of it, is so very personal – this is a very timely issue that all nations are struggling with. Religious rule? Secular rule?

Underlying all the Donna Leon books is the sweetness of daily life with Brunetti’s family, his beautiful and principled wife, his teenaged children, the food they eat, the family discussions they have, the flowers he brings home and the strength of the connection they have with one another. The Venetian setting weaves its own magical thread through every novel, as we ride with Brunetti in the vaporetto on the canals, as we sit with him in a local bar for a quick coffee – or something stronger – and as he walks the streets from home to office, or to talk with a witness.

And last, but not least, the utter corruption in the Venetian system reminds us that veniality is not restricted to the United States, or to Kuwait, or to Nigeria, or Italy, or to any one country, but wherever man seeks to impose order, the chaos of corruption must be slowly and surely overcome by the building of an honest bureaucracy, people like you and me, serving in seemingly hopeless situations, but doing our best, day by day, like Guido Brunetti, to build a better world for our children.

June 20, 2007 Posted by | Books, Bureaucracy, Community, Crime, Cross Cultural, Detective/Mystery, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Generational, Health Issues, Italy, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Political Issues, Relationships, Social Issues, Venice, Women's Issues | 5 Comments

Blarney Blarney Blarney

There is a two syllable word that starts with “b” and has to do with bulls and excrement and you use it to imply that someone is saying something that is not true. It is not a polite word, but there is a perfectly good two syllable word that also starts with a “b” and that is “blarney.”

When Adventure Man is chatting me up about something, and I can see where it is going, him spinning all these illusions and wanting my buy-in and this is the perfect “b” word to use: Blarney, Blarney, Blarney. We always end up laughing.

And Blarney is the word-a-day for today:

This week’s theme: toponyms coined after places in Ireland.

blarney (BLAHR-nee) noun

1. Flattery.

2. Misleading talk.

[After the Blarney stone, a stone in Blarney Castle in Blarney village,
near Cork, Ireland which, according to legend, gives the gift of the gab
to anyone who kisses it.]

A Word a Day is in the blogroll to the right, or you can subscribe to A Word a Day here.

June 20, 2007 Posted by | Blogroll, Communication, Cross Cultural, Language, Lies, Marriage, Mating Behavior, Tools, Words | 5 Comments

The Good Husband of Zebra Drive

In Alexander McCall Smith’s newest book about Mma Ramotswe, it is a time of transition and unease. Unthinkable things happen. Mma Makutsi quits her job as Mma Ramotswe’s assistant detective, and Charlie, the apprentice, quits to start his own taxi service. Mr. J.L.B. Matekoni feels a restless urge to try out his detecting skills and everything is in turmoil.

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And underneath, amazing things happen. When you think differently, there is room for change, and forgiveness.

With Mma Makutsi back in her usual place, the heavy atmosphere that had prevailed that morning lifted. The emotional reunion, as demonstrative and effusive as if Mma Makutsi had been away for months, or even years, had embarrassed the men, who had exchanged glances and then looked away, as if in guilt at an intrusion into essentially female mysteries. But when the ululating from Mma Ramotswe had died down and the tea had been made, everything returned to normal.

“Why did she bother to leave if she was going to be back in five minutes?” asked the younger apprentice.

“It’s because she doesn’t think like anybody else,” said Charlie. “She thinks backwards.”

Mr. J.L.B. Matekoni, who overheard this, shook his head. “It’s a sign of maturity to be able to change your mind when you realize that you’re wrong,” he explained. “It’s the same with fixing a car. If you find out that you’re going along the wrong lines then don’t hesitate to stop and correct yourself. If, for example, you’re changing the oil seal at the back of a gearbox, you might try to save time by doing this without taking the gearbox out. But it’s always quicker to take the gearbox out. If you don’t, you end up taking the floor out and anyway, you have to take the top of the gearbox off, and the prop shaft too. So it’s best to stop and admit your mistake before you go any further and damage things.”

Charlie listened to this – it was a long speech for Mr. J.L.B. Matekoni – and then looked away. He wondered if this was a random example siezed upon by Mr. J.L.B. Matekoni, or if he knew about the seal he had tried to install in the old rear-wheel-drive Ford. Could he have found out somehow?

In another place, Charlie has just told Mma Ramotswe of his plans to start the No. 1 Ladies Taxi Service:

For a minute or two, nobody spoke. Mma Ramotswe was aware of the sound of Charlie’s breathing, which was shallow, from excitement. We must remember, she thought, what it is like to be young and enthusiastic, to have a plan, a dream. There is always a danger that as we went on in life we forget about that; caution – even fear – replaced optimism and courage. When you were young, like Charlie, you believed that you could do anything, and, in some circumstances at least, you could. . . . .

“I will tell all my friends to use your taxi,” she said. “I am sure you will be very busy.”

And oh yes, in the midst of all this, three mysteries get solved – a case of inventory gone missing, a case of a string of inexplicable hospital deaths, and a case of a husband potentialy gone astray.

GREAT summer reading, deceptively simple. You find yourself mulling over the situations, the responses and the outcomes, and trying out new ways of thinking. Give it a try – you don’t have to read the whole series to enjoy each volume.

This eighth book in the series is available from Amazon.com for a mere $12.70. It makes great summer reading.

June 20, 2007 Posted by | Adventure, Africa, Books, Botswana, Community, Crime, Cross Cultural, Detective/Mystery, Family Issues, Friends & Friendship, Generational, Locard Exchange Principal, Marriage, Poetry/Literature, Relationships, Social Issues, Women's Issues | Leave a comment

Today in History

First, congratulations to all our Kuwaiti friends on their Independance Day. 46 years. I hope you have a great celebration.

There is a wonderful website Today in History where you choose any date and you can see all the births, deaths and major events in history. Pretty cool!

Isn’t it amazing what is out there? People have taken so much time and energy to offer information and services to the world community.

June 19, 2007 Posted by | Blogging, Communication, Community, Cross Cultural, Kuwait, Random Musings | 8 Comments

Kinan’s Tag

1. Last movie you saw in a theater?
Pirates of the Caribbean 2

2. What book are you reading?
Currently: Donna Leon, Through a Glass Darkly

3. Favorite board game?
Board games are too slow. Hearts. Bridge. Poker!

4.Favorite magazine?
New Yorker

5. Favorite smell?
Jet fuel

6. Favorite food?
Italian and Japanese

7. Favorite sound?
Call to prayer

8. Worst feeling in the world?
Making a careless decision that causes harm to others

9. What is the first thing you think of when you wake up?
Gahwa!

10. Favorite fast food place?
Ivar’s (seafood chain in the Pacific Northwest)

11. Future child’s name?
Morgan. Douglas. Megan.

12. Finish this statement. If I had a lot of money:
I’d join Bill Gates Foundation and find ways to make the money work hard making the world a better place.

13. Do you drive fast?
Yeh.

14. Do you sleep with a stuffed animal?
Husband? Cat?

15. Storms cool or scary?
Very cool.

16. What was your first car?
An ancient Mercedes

17. Favorite drink?
Bordeaux

18. Finish this statement, “If I had the time I would…”:
I have the time . . .

19. Do you eat the stems on broccoli?
In soup.

20. If you could dye your hair any color, what would be your choice?
Red
21. Name all the different cities/ towns you have lived in?
Alaska, Seattle, Heidelberg, Kaiserslautern, Mannheim, Wiesbaden, Tampa, Tunis, Monterey, Amman, Riyadh, Leavenworth, Doha, Kuwait

22. Half empty or half full?
Mostly Full

23. Favorite sports to watch?
College football

25. Morning person, or night owl?
Morning

26. Over easy, or sunny side-up?
3 minute

27. Favorite place to relax?
Zanzibar

28. Favorite pie?
Blueberry or rhubarb

I tag Fluent Thoughts, Magical Droplets, Skunk, Swair and Little Diamond.

June 18, 2007 Posted by | Biography, Blogging, Community, Cross Cultural, Friends & Friendship, Tag | 14 Comments

No Accounting for Taste

My Mother once joked that the definition of good taste was someone whose taste agreed with your own. Her house is all smooth, modern, elegant lines, while mine is all old, antique and semi-antique. She has clean lines and clear surfaces, and I am guessing that to her, my decor is cluttered. (Not that she criticizes me.) We just have different tastes.

My husband and I also have different tastes. Often, his eye will alight on something, say like a Masai shield 7 feet long, and he will say “wouldn’t that be great in our house?” and my response is “yes! In your den!” He calls his den The Adventure Man Museum, and says that the only thing the Tarek Rejab has on him is that they have had a couple more decades of collecting. But he is still working on it!

He LOVES these trees. He keeps threatening to buy a couple for our yards back home. I mention little things like shipping expenses. . . . or maybe he is pulling my leg – ya think?

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So far, we agree that they look great in context. I am not so sure they would do so sell in a rainy climate.

And this is what I love:

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You used to find these everywhere in the Gulf, even in the cities you would find them in the diwaniyyas. This is the only one I have seen since I came to Kuwait, and it is in a museum. I remember being out in the beit-as-shar in the desert (for my non-Arabic speaking friends: tents, literally, House of Hair because the tenting was woven of goat and camel hair.) I remember the sound of the metal clanging as the coffee was ground in the morter, I remember the smell of the wood fire when the coffee was brewing, and I remember the coffee being poured through branches that kept (some of) the grounds out. I miss that ceremony; I miss the sounds and smells and taste, because out in the desert coffee tastes different. It wasn’t that long ago – but I never see them anymore.

Do you?

June 18, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Cooking, Cross Cultural, Eating Out, Events, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Jordan, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Lumix, Photos, Public Art, Travel | 11 Comments

Souk Mubarakiyya Art Fun

It’s no secret. I love the Souk Mubarakiyya, and I love all the handicrafts shops, the jewelry shops (it’s no sin! It’s also a handicraft!) and the food stalls. I even love the fish market, and the dark, seedy shisha place that looks like it is out of some bad movie.

Here is one of my favorite pieces of public art in the market. Not because it’s good, it isn’t. but it is a lot of fun. When you take guests to the souk, you can position one of your guests in front of the woman, and it looks like he/she is part of the market scene.

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Magical Droplets says she is inspired, and has grabbed her camera to start shooting.

It’s summer. Not a lot going on . . . so here is my challenge to you, Kuwait Bloggers. Grap your camera. Show us the beauty you see, the beauty of your community, show us the beauty of Kuwait, even in the scorching, crispy heat of a Kuwait summer.

And please come back here and tell us when you’ve posted, so my non-Kuwaiti readers can also click through to take a look at what you see. Keep your camera handy – you never know when a perfect photo will come up.

June 17, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Blogging, Communication, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Generational, Kuwait, Lumix, Photos, Public Art | 5 Comments

Kuwait Beauty (2)

Public art in the Souk Mubarakiyya parking:

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Mubarakiyya Market:

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The Marina Crescent:

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June 16, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Public Art, Shopping | 11 Comments

Kuwait Beauty

“If you but have the eyes to see . . .”

There is great beauty in Kuwait. Here is the spire of a mosque I found in Hawalli when I got lost. (Yes, people look at me like I am out of my mind when I stop and take photos of these things they see everyday.)

Here is detail from the spire:
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Here is an old-fashioned meshrabiyya window at the home standing over the Tarek Rajab Museum. Who can believe that such a museum treasure is open to the public for free, thanks to the graciousness of a private family, who sees the beauty in the Gulf Heritage, collects and preserves it.
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Here is the globe near the entrance to Kuwait University, reminding us always that we are all connected in this world:
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Dusk is my favorite time in Kuwait – the glare of the sun softens, and the colors glow:
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June 14, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Cross Cultural, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Geography / Maps, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Lumix, Middle East, Photos, Public Art, Random Musings, Social Issues, Uncategorized | 14 Comments

Just another reason to love Q8

Kuwait Times, 10 June 2007

Camel Found
A Kuwaiti man reported to Naeem police that when he got out of his house, he saw a camel lying before his car and he tried to move the camel but it did not move. Police moved to the scene and discovered that the camel belonged to another Kuwaiti man and it fled its den recently.

My comment: I used to see camels all the time in Qatar. I have NEVER seen a single camel in Kuwait. I know they are around, just not in any of the places I have been. I haven’t even been to the camel races here!

But camels are BIG, and they are nasty-tempered. You gotta love a guy who sees a camel “before his car” and tries to move the camel. I am guessing the paper meant to say that he tried to MAKE the camel move, but the vision I have is this be-thobed, be-gutra’d guy trying to shove a camel away from his car. It just gives me a huge grin. Very brave man!

June 11, 2007 Posted by | Adventure, Communication, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Humor, Kuwait, Language, Living Conditions, Middle East, News | 10 Comments