John Lockerbie, Catnaps and Islamic / Arabic Design
One of the reasons I love going to museums over and over again is because I can only absorb so much at one time. Every time I see an exhibit, I learn something new. The next time I go to the Doha Islamic Museum I am going to go by myself, get the headsets, and get an overview. It will be my seventh trip to the museum. I am ready to go a little deeper.
You know you have read a good book – even if you didn’t like it when you read it – when your mind keeps going back there, time after time, mulling over questions, thinking of alternative endings, thinking even about what you didn’t like – a book that troubles you enough to make you THINK is a good book.
John Lockerbie’s website, Catnaps does the same thing for me. As I drive around Kuwait and Doha, I see things and get the great “aha” because I have read articles he writes about Islamic / Arabic houses, their origins, how the earliest houses were constructed, problems with modern constructions. I can’t absorb it all at once, so I visit again and again. I look for window shadings, and I look for air conditioning. Because of his website, I am more aware when I take in the architecture.
Here, for example, is a relatively new building, but look what they did for air conditioning. I was in the building next door; the offices are air conditioned but the hall is hot and breathless.
As I went to the site today to get the reference, I got lost once again in the boat section. Now, I do know my shuw’i from my booms! I’m still working on the others. The very cool thing is John Lockerbie is always learning new stuff, too, and often updates what he has written, so there is always something new to learn on this site.
Don’t try to take it in all at once. Go often to visit and peruse. There is so much there that will enrich your stay in the Gulf if you understand a little more about what you are seeing.
Mr. Lockerbie used one of my photos to show a shaded garden. I haven’t the heart to tell him that the very next week they came and took off the tops of all my trees so the lawn would grow, but now my garden has harsh sunlight like the rest of Doha. The trees grow really fast – several feet per year – so it won’t be long before I have some shade once again.
Amjad Thai Snack on Merqab al Jedeed
AdventueMan and I have different preferences dining out. Actually, I don’t even care that much to go out, I totally loved Kuwait’s system, everything and anything can be delivered. That worked for me! AdventureMan likes to go out, sit, enjoy his dinner, have a relaxing experience.
He doesn’t like Amjad Thai Snack, but he does agree with me that the food is outstanding. Our agreement is this – If I go get the food, he will gladly eat it, but he doesn’t want to go there.
The food is amazing. The place is a dive.
Six years ago, Thai Snack was just that – a few tables and chairs outside a Thai Massage Parlor on Merqab, closer to the C Ring Circle than the D Ring. It used to be you always knew where it was because they had these neon signs of massages. One of the massage signs started out slow and got faster and faster and then when WOW! POP! Sparkles-all-over! We would take people down to watch the signs at night, they were so funny. Finally, I am guessing someone else figured out that they had ambiguous sexual overtones, and the neon signs are no longer there.
I think the massage parlor is still there, but the success of Amjad Thai Snack has just grown and grown. It grew to one inside serving room, then two, then three. It’s nothing fancy. No tablecloths, you get your own flatware from bins on the table. Your waiter takes your order and then you take a chit that has your table number on it to the cashier to pay before you leave. They really have an efficient, high tech system for a very low tech kinda joint.
Did I mention the food is amazing?
The first night AdventureMan agreed to take me there, we had to wait about 45 minutes to get in, on a hot, steamy night in Doha, crowded in with all the other people waiting to get in, crowded more by those coming in to pick up their orders. Amjad Thai Snack does BIG business.
The noodle soups are easily enough for a meal for two people, and enough for a first course for four.
Shrimp Noodle soup:
Fish with Spicy Basil:
Fish with Spicy Basil served over rice:
Other dishes can be split and shared. It’s part of my family tradition – growing up on the West Coast of the USA, great and authentic Chinese / Japanese / Vietnamese /Korean cuisines available everywhere, it was the fast-food I grew up on. Our extended family would get together in a restaurant and everyone would order one dish – maybe 26 – 30 dishes coming around the table, and you were encouraged to try anything. One of my joker cousins would order something gross and we would all try it.
It’s not AdventureMan’s thing, although he likes it well enough. His preference would be to eat Chinese in a nice hotel where he can get a beer with his dinner, but most of the hotel Chinese food is too dumbed-down for me.
Amjad Thai Snack is not dumbed down. The Fish (or Chicken, or beef, or seafood, if you prefer) in spicy basil sauce is delicious. Their curries are delicious. They have wonderful appetizers, wontons and buns. They do hot pots that serve a table of four to eight. Their noodle soups are divine. They are so well packed that not a drop gets spilled on the trip home.
You can call your order ahead and it will be waiting for you when you get there. Parking can be a problem, but if you get there before 7:30 pm, you should be OK. You can often find parking across the street, too.
Last , but not least, if you can read the menu, and I apologize that it is small, you will notice it is all correctly spelled and grammatically correct. This is an amazing advancement in six years. We used to find things on menus in Doha that totally mystified us, and when we would ask, the answers would also mystify us. Not anymore. 🙂
Mixed Message: Doha Dressing
With all the advisories going out, to both men and women but seemingly especially pointed at women, telling us to cover up, and be respectful of local culture and traditions, and especially not to dress disturbingly during Ramadan, I had to smile today in the mall (no not The Mall, another mall) when I saw these darling dresses in the window. OK, so we buy the dresses – who could resist? WHERE can we wear these dresses?
(They really are adorable dresses, and the Ramadan sales are already cranking up, Wooo HOOOO!)
Doha Roadwork
You think you know your way around, but in Doha, that can all change from day to day due to the roadwork. I was in that position this last week, found myself not wanting to re-do a 2 kilometer detour, so figured I could find my way through the back streets, which I did.
I didn’t know there were still streets in Doha I had never seen, but these were such streets, and oh what fun. I found this unusual and delicate mosque:
While lost, I also discovered a traffic roundabout I had been looking for. Expats have different names for many of the roundabouts, and those names are totally different from the real, local names, like The Mall roundabout, Green Steps roundabout – we know what they are, but those aren’t the real names.
The roundabout I had been looking for was Kotub, but I found it – Qutub – also called Library roundabout. Nearby is supposed to be a take-away place called Felasteen; someone told me they have the best felafel in the city. We used to go to place on Najma called Al Quds, but now he doesn’t do felafel any more, only sweets. We especially liked his bread, thin but with toasted sesame seeds embedded in the bread – oh YUM. We are hoping the Felasteen measures up to the old Al Quds felafel.
New Parking Souq Al Waqif
When I moved to Doha, in 2003, I did a panorama shot of the Doha skyline from the-spit-where-the-Bandar-restaurants-used-to-be. Unfortunately, I wasn’t into digital yet, so all I have is prints from film. In 2003, parking at the airport was free. I was told Doha meant sleepy, and then, it seemed pretty sleepy, even with the Iraqi invasion about to take place.
The Souq al Waqif was off limits to the military, a dark and dangerous place. I don’t believe it was dangerous for the same reasons they thought it was dangerous – the authorities thought that because it was a very traditional shopping area, incidents could happen. The real danger was from the uneven walking areas, with unexpected pits here and there or slick spots, or changes of elevation.
The last night I was recently down at the Souq al Waqif for dinner, I saw a small bus load of people arrive from the military base (the haircuts, duh) and it just made me grin. The Souq al Waqif is still a traditional place – and it is also a place that welcomes tourists, and welcomes expats. I am so thankful it is no longer, evidently, off-limits.
But oh, the parking. They have marked spaces. No, I am not so traditional that I insist on chaotic parking, marked spaces are fine. The marked spaces are fine, that is, when they give drivers enough space to park and to pull out. The new marked spaces at the Souq al Waqif are too small, and the driving lane between them has to weave between the Yukons on the left, the Denalis on the right and the delivery truck in front who just hit the Hummer trying to back out.
I am not exaggerating. Traffic was snarled for a half an hour while the police tried to sort out not one – but two accidents in the time I was trying to find a parking spot. On what felt like the hottest day of the year, you can imagine, it wasn’t even prime time at the Souq al Waqif. I can imagine the nights are a nightmare.
This is what I saw for half an hour while we didn’t move, except for people on the left who kept trying to edge in front of me:
But – where else but at the Souk al Waqif while you are stuck in a parking lot jam will you see a man cross in front of you with a pigeon in a cage?
And while the official temperature may have been 43°C or 44°C, this is what my gauge said:
Whoever designed the parking at Souq al Waqif should have to park there every day until it gets fixed.
Qatar Government Schools to Open September 27
Government schools to reopen on September 27
Web posted at: 8/6/2009 2:31:6
Source ::: THE PENINSULA
DOHA: Qatar is to witness its usual post-summer hustle and bustle from the end of next month as the numerically sizeable government and Independent schools open for a fresh academic year on September 27, a little less than a week after Eid Al Fitr.
The Minister of Education and Higher Education, H E Saad bin Ibrahim Al Mahmoud, yesterday announced the schedule for both the morning and evening government educational institutions for the new academic year.
Being the Secretary-General of the Supreme Education Council (SEC), the regulatory body for Independent Schools, the minister also declared the schedule of the Independent Schools for the entire year (2009-10).
The administrative staff of these schools is required to report for duty on September 13, during the holy month of Ramadan.
The first semester examinations of schools from the elementary to the preparatory level are to be held from January 31 next year, while high school students will sit for their exams from January 21.
The winter vacation of these schools will start on February 14 and end a fortnight later, while their annual exams are to be held by June-end 2010.
The schools will reopen after the summer break on September 21, 2010.
Google Earth Updates Doha Imagery
Every now and then I think “wasta” is a good thing. (Wasta is connection, wasta is knowing someone who can help you out. It can be good when you need a favor. It can be bad when it gets you out of a situation for which you are responsible.) I have wasta with Google Earth. When I moved to Kuwait, I complained that my area was all blurry and within a week – WOW. High resolution.
I got word this morning from my connection, Earthling, that new imagery for Doha is up and any blurriness is being cleaned up. Thank you, Earthling! You have no idea – Doha really doesn’t have street addresses that you can figure out, so Google Earth helps me get to where I need to go.
If you are not a GoogleEarth user – yet – I urge you to download and give it a try. It’s free, and it is awesome.
(Earthling, can you call it work when you love what you do and where you work so much?) 😉
The Fingerprint Factory
Drama Drama Drama. It used to be the last dreaded event before getting your residence. You had to have fingerprints taken and it was in this big mob-scene, huge mobs of people and hot hot hot, no air, and the ink was HORRIBLE, and even if you brought your own soap and washed right away, you still had ink under your fingernails for days. It was a hellish experience.
Today was the day. It started with drama – when I got to where I was supposed to be at 10:10, the receptionist told me I was supposed to be there at 9:30, I had missed my appointment. I was really sure my husband had told me my appointment was at 10:30, so I waited while she called, and it was one of those experiences where she was NOT happy being wrong, and I got to sit out in the not-air-conditioned hall to wait for my group to go.
When my group got to the fingerprint place, there was no mob. There WAS more drama. There was only a very nice be-thobed gentleman who said that the fingerprint computer was broken. It was broken yesterday, and they got it working again this morning until 9 o’clock, but now it is broken. I asked “how long until it is fixed?” but it was one of those insh’allah things, no one knows how long it will take to get the system up again. We would have to come back tomorrow.
And then, just as we were walking out the gate back to the van, he called to us “Come back! Come back!” The fingerprint machine was working again.
Inside, it was orderly and air conditioned. Take a number, take a seat. Wait your turn. Very cool, watching people’s fingerprints, handprints, etc show up in huge prints. If there was any blur, the machine showed red – like a red thumb – and it had to be done over again.
For some reason, I had to have several done over again. I don’t know if it was me, or if the machine was just finicky. All I know is that the system was up long enough for me to get my fingerprints taken, and there was NO mess. None. Wooo HOOOO.
I still have my old Qateri driving licence. I am praying – please keep me in your prayers – that they will just renew it and I won’t have to take a road test on the roads of Qatar. Although – after driving in Kuwait – I can drive anywhere. 😀
Shopping Rush Begins as Ramadan Nears
“What happened??” AdventureMan asks me on the phone from a nearby roundabout. “All of a sudden, it is traffic madness!”
I laughed.
The day before, Saturday, a day off coupled with a dust storm – the roads were empty, I found “rock star parking” at the Souq al Waqif, and breezed around town doing my errands in record time.
“I think it has to do with Ramadan coming,” I said. Ramadan will start on or about August 20, and the beginning of the month is payday for many people. My best guess is that a lot of people are beginning to prepare now.
Sure enough, today’s Peninsula is saying the same thing:
Ramadan shopping rush begins
Web posted at: 8/3/2009 2:54:31
Source ::: THE PENINSULA
People crowd at Souq Waqif for buying provisions and other things yesterday. ABDUL BASIT
DOHA: Despite the spiralling prices of basic commodities as the Ramadan season nears sales in shops selling essential food items are brisk as people prepare for the coming Holy Month, The Peninsula has learnt.
The long strip of shops in Souq Waqif selling spices, pulses and rice were yesterday abuzz with shoppers filling their shopping bags with basic food items in anticipation for the 30-day fasting period.
“Definitely there had been an increase in some food items specially spices and pulses,” said Mohammad Robel, one of the shopkeepers in the traditional souq.
Robel said price increase between 30 to 40 percent was recently witnessed, though he claimed the rise in prices varies from one company supplier to another.
“The company determines the increase in prices but fluctuation in the price rise from one company to another is not that significant,” he maintained.
Cardamom, which is popularly used here as spice for sweet dishes and traditional flavouring for coffee and tea, is currently priced at QR380 per five kilos.
“Previously five kilos of cardamom was QR290,” Robel said.
In the same way price of beans has increased from QR96 to QR115 per five kilos. A 20-kilo sack of staple food Indian basmati rice costs QR150.
Rice, beans, curry, sugar and salt are among the items in great demand these days and prices of these and other items are expected to increase further with just less than three weeks before Ramadan commences.
For those of you who don’t know what Ramadan is, it is the holy month celebrated by Moslems as the time during which the Qu’ran was related to the Prophet Mohammad. The rules are strictly enforced in Qatar – no eating, drinking, smoking or physical contact with the opposite sex from dawn to sunset. There are heavy fines – even prison time – for violators.
Non-Moslem women and men are being reminded to wear modest clothing that does not reveal the shape of your body, to avoid distracting those focused on religious thoughts.
Although a period of fasting, it is also a time of feasting, as the fast is broken when the sun goes down, and every night for the lunar month of Ramadan, special dishes are served, and parties are held. It is a month of religious contemplation, and also a month of religious celebration.
Here is what it says at Islam101:
Ramadan -a month of obligatory daily fasting in Islam is the ninth month in the Islamic lunar calendar. Daily fasts begin at dawn and end with sunset. Special nightly prayers called, Taraweeh prayers are held. The entire Quran is recited in these prayers in Mosques all around the world. This month provides an opportunity for Muslims to get closer to God. This is a month when a Muslim should try to:
See not what displeases Allah
Speak no evil
Hear no evil
Do no evil
Look to Allah with fear and hope
“O you who believe! Fasting is prescribed for you as it was prescribed for those before you, that you may become God-fearing.” (The Quran, 2:183)
The Prophet (peace and blessings be upon him) said: Whoever fasts during Ramadan with faith and seeking his reward from Allah will have his past sins forgiven. Whoever prays during the nights in Ramadan with faith and seeking his reward from Allah will have his past sins forgiven. And he who passes Lailat al-Qadr in prayer with faith and seeking his reward from Allah will have his past sins forgiven (Bukhari, Muslim).
Ramadan ends with a day long celebration known as Eidul-Fitr. Eidul-Fitr begins with a special morning prayer in grand Mosques and open grounds of towns and cities of the world. the prayer is attended by men, women and children with their new or best clothes. A special charity, known as Zakatul-Fitr is given out prior to the prayer. The rest of the day is spent in visiting relatives and friends, giving gifts to children and eating.
Seattle Copes With Record Temperatures
Last week, Seattle, that rainy-city-by-the-sea, had higher temperatures than Doha (we were covered by a dust storm, which held the temperatures down). The Seattle Times printed these hints on how to cope with the high temperatures.
Staying healthy in hot weather
Public Health — Seattle & King County provides these tips to stay healthy in the hot weather.
Public Health — Seattle & King County provides these tips to stay healthy in hot weather.
At home:
• Spend more time in air-conditioned places. If you don’t have air conditioning, consider visiting a library, mall, movie theater or other cool public places.
• Cover windows that receive morning or afternoon sun.
• Dress in lightweight clothing.
• Check up on your elderly neighbors and relatives.
• Drink plenty of water or nonalcoholic beverages.
• Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink.
If you go outside
• Limit your direct exposure to the sun.
*• Do not leave infants, children, people with mobility challenges or pets in a parked car, even with the window rolled down.
• Avoid or reduce strenuous activity.
• Limit outdoor activity to morning and evening hours.
• Avoid sunburn. Use a sunscreen lotion with a high SPF (sun protection factor) rating.
• Check with your physician if you are concerned about heat and the specific medications you are taking. Certain medications may increase sensitivity to the heat. Do not take salt tablets unless directed to by a physician.
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