Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

St. Patrick and the Wearing of the Green

Growing up in the USA, everyone knows, as a kid, that on St. Patrick’s Day you wear green. It doesn’t mean you are Catholic, or Christian, it means you don’t want to get a pinch, because that is what happens to kids who don’t wear green. (You know how mean kids can be!)

Later on, maybe in high school, a few people will wear orange and explain that they are Irish protestants. Most of us, as kids, don’t really know a whole lot about St. Patrick other than that he went to Ireland to convert the heathens to believe in the church, and that he cast the snakes out of Ireland.

When you get older, St. Patrick’s Day is often a rollicking night in local taverns with Irish names, where they serve stew, and soda bread, and potatoes, and lots of green beer and live music singing old Irish songs.

There are references below to the short version of St. Patrick’s life, and a longer version. The longer version is the Catholic version and, while less documented, is longer and more interesting.

This is from Wikipedia, and is a short summary of the life of St. Patrick:

Saint Patrick (Latin: Patricius[2], Irish: Naomh Pádraig) was a Christian missionary and is the patron saint of Ireland along with Brigid of Kildare and Columba. Patrick was born in Roman Britain. When he was about sixteen he was captured by Irish raiders and taken as a slave to Ireland, where he lived for six years before escaping and returning to his family. He entered the church, as his father and grandfather had before him, becoming a deacon and a bishop. He later returned to Ireland as a missionary, working in the north and west of the island, but little is known about the places where he actually worked and no link can be made with Patrick and any church. By the eighth century he had become the patron saint of Ireland. The Irish monastery system evolved after the time of Patrick and the Irish church did not develop the diocesan model that Patrick and the other early missionaries had tried to establish.

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(From Who Was St. Patrick?)

The available body of evidence does not allow the dates of Patrick’s life to be fixed with certainty, but it appears that he was active as a missionary in Ireland during the second half of the fifth century. Two letters from him survive, along with later hagiographies from the seventh century onwards. Many of these works cannot be taken as authentic traditions. Uncritical acceptance of the Annals of Ulster (see below) would imply that he lived from 378 to 493, and ministered in modern day northern Ireland from 433 onwards.

The Catholic Encyclopedia has a long and detailed but easy-to-read description of the life of St. Patrick, who gave up a life of riches to serve the church in the wilds of Ireland.

March 17, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Biography, Character, ExPat Life, Ireland, Spiritual | , | 6 Comments

Pet Import and Export Service

Many people write asking about how we got the Qatteri cat into Kuwait, and I have to tell them that the woman who helped us is no longer here. Recently a friend passed along a card to me – there is a new woman providing the import/export help, and for those of you with people coming to work with your companies who have pets, this woman helps get the paperwork for either bringing a pet into the country or getting your pet out. She knows the bureaucracy and she knows how to get the job done.

She is also well connected with all services involved with animals; as well as import/export, she can arrange grooming and boarding, and will meet you at the airport with the papers necessary for bringing your animal into Kuwait – assuming you have arranged this with her in advance.

Here is her e-mail address – please share it with your HR departments for their resources:

petpassage@yahoo.com

March 15, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Pets | 4 Comments

More Mubarakiya Sights

It seems to be heating up quickly. The months when perusing the souks in daylight hours are coming to an end. We are trying to make the most of it while we can. A few more quick snaps from the Mubarakiyya Market on a quiet Friday:

Vegetable market public art I hadn’t spotted before:

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Traditional clothing-seller:

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Bath supplies:

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Foodstuffs:

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Those of you who live here walk right by these stalls all the time, and never notice that they are disappearing. I have been perusing old books about Kuwait, even some not so old, and Kuwait is changing so rapidly that even books only 10 years old or so have become outdated by the rapid passage of time.

For those of you not in Kuwait, there are malls. There are SO many modern malls. As in other countries, some are more upscale than others, but they are malls. In most, you are not supposed to take photos. In most, you will see the same stores you will see in any other country. Mubarakiyya is special because it is still an active market in the old style.

March 15, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Building, Character, Community, Cultural, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Shopping | 5 Comments

Lazy Mubarakiyya Friday

For our non-Kuwaiti friends, Friday is the day off in Kuwait if you only have one day off, Friday and Saturday for a few. It’s the perfect time of the year to visit the Mubarakiyya Souks – not too hot, not too cold and always something interesting to see. Grab your friends and family, and have lunch in the square where all the restaurants are.

In our two years of visiting the restaurant, we never realized the menu was on the bottom of the kleenex box:
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Bread making:
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So good!
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Kebab making:
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Busy in the tea stall:
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The tea stays HOT on the table tea-grill:

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March 14, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Community, Cooking, Cultural, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Hot drinks, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Weather | 11 Comments

Something Stupid

I had a birthday a while back, and decided that I was no longer going to mourn my Cuisinart, stuck in storage lo, these last ten years while my husband and I vagabond around the earth. I had bought a cheap food processor in Germany, and left it behind (whew! bought it when the dollar was $1.20 to the Euro, those were the days!) and then I bought a cheap food processor in Doha and brought it with me, but it doesn’t grate Parmesan, and . . . well, it isn’t a Cuisinart, and I really loved working with my Cuisinart. Isn’t it wonderful when they invent a piece of machinery that truly decreases labor, and is a pleasure to use?

I just bought a little one, knowing I will get rid of it when I leave. It is 110 volts, so I could even take it back with me if I wanted. The very first thing I grated was Parmesan cheese, and it was good. And then I grated cheddar, and it was good. And then I chopped onions and parsley, and it was very very good. I used it three times.

Yesterday, I went to grind some sausages and it only worked for one second, then quit. I checked all the plugs, checked the fuse box, checked everything I could. I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t working.

Then I figured it out. I had fried my beautiful new Cuisinart. Can you figure out what I did?

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I will show you a close-up of the transformer, maybe that will help:

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Yes, I plugged my sweet little 110 brand new Cuisinart into the 220/240 output plug instead of the 110 output plug.

Do you think it can be fixed? Is there somewhere in Kuwait I can take it and get it re-wired? (Sigh.)

March 14, 2008 Posted by | Cooking, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Technical Issue, Tools | 6 Comments

Kuwait Plumbing/Bathrooms

This is one of those “sometimes you don’t even know what you don’t know” kind of posts.

We were sitting around after book club, and the topic turned to oddities in our housing. I mentioned that sometimes, my bathrooms just STINK and I don’t know why. People were quick to explain that when they put plumbing in, they don’t exhaust the sewer gases the same way as in Europe and America, and sometimes the gases back up and make a bad smell.

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I know that my bathroom sometimes smells like someone has just dumped a diaper pail, sometimes I can smell hair dye, and sometimes I can smell men’s perfume! Sometimes it smells like the sea at low tide – none of these smells has anything to do with me, and I have wondered why my bathroom smells that way. We keep candles and perfumes in our bathrooms, so that when the stench is overwhelming, we can burn or spray it away.

The management’s suggestion, when we complained, was to run a lot of water, that made the smell go away. Run a lot of water? In a country like Kuwait where there is no rain this year, and water is precious?

“If only they would air condition the bathrooms!” one friend added and suddenly the light went on in my head! I had always thought it was me! I do my hair and make up in the bathroom, and often I end up sweating and wondering what I did to make me so HOT (not as the like “she’s so HOT!” sense, in the sweat-rolling-down-my-forehead sense.)

When I got home, I checked out all my bathrooms. My friend was absolutely right, there is no air conditioning in the bathrooms. We love our bathrooms, they are about the size of a small bedroom in the US, or a spacious walk-in closet, they have windows, they have beautiful tiling, they are nice!

And no, there is no air conditioning in the bathrooms. I have lived here for two years and never figured that out.

(No, that is not my bathroom in the photo. I love bathrooms, and found that photo HERE at Tessera Tile where they have glass tiles and I am dreaming of doing a bathroom with glass tiles and glass brick.)

March 13, 2008 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Building, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Technical Issue | 12 Comments

Al Mohaleb Restaurant

My friend called me, all excited.

“Kareem took me to the most wonderful restaurant for my birthday last night!” she exclaimed, and I could just hear the delight in her voice. “We just know you and AdventureMan will just love it! It’s Kuwaiti! They only serve fish and related things like appetizers and rice, but the fish is out of this world, and the atmosphere is lovely; gracious and refined. When can the four of us go together?”

We quickly compared calendars and came up with the soonest compatible date. I rarely hear my friend wax enthusiastic about a Kuwaiti restaurant.

The night arrived, and as we picked up our friends, we sat in the garden, which for some unknown reason is flourishing this year in spite of the drought. At her house, you can see stars in the sky, the air is perfumed with growing things, and the night is so sweet, with just a light breeze, that we are almost reluctant to go.

Who would know where this restaurant is? There is no sign at The Palms Hotel, next door to the SAS Radisson, that this restaurant exists. I remember when they had a “Wasabi” sign up for nearly a year, and no Wasabi ever showed up there – but this restaurant exists, and there is no signage. I am a little concerned because the front parking lot is packed, with people waiting to find a spot, but Kareem tells us to drive to the end of the dirt parking lot. There, at the very end of the Palms hotel, next to their highly publicized new Tajine restaurant, is Al Mohaleb, overlooking the sand and sea.

This is what you see at the entrance, the huge Dallah (coffee pot) and in the background, the sign for Al Muhaleb, which, AdventureMan tells me, is the biggest dhow, the one used for trading in days of old, across the seas. Suddenly the light goes on, and I remember my friend taking me to a mall of the same name, and . . . the Mall is shaped like a great, huge ship!

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As you enter, there is a diwaniyya-like area for meeting up or waiting for a table, and then you go up three steps to the restaurant:

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It’s already a little magical. The restaurant is decorated with old fishing equipment, nicely displayed, nicely framed old photos and memorabilia. It has a beam and woven palm leaf ceiling (I am a sucker for those) and a spacious dining room, with an outer area for smokers and shisha. The waiter brings tiny cups, and pours the coffee with cardomon for us, and welcomes us. Another waiter brings Kuwaiti nibbles, simply cut lettuce and vegetables, Kuwaiti pickles and a green mabooch, which I happily recognize because you, my readers, have told me.

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This is not fast food, and it is a good thing, because when you are with good friends, there is always so much to talk about. We don’t just catch up, we have to discuss all the politics, the US election, the Kuwait demonstrations, recent editorials, my friend’s garden, my current projects, our children . . . the evenings are always too short. No matter how much we chat, there is always so much more to discuss.

The kitchen at Al Muhaleb is glassed in. We spot our fish coming out of the oven, and oh, it looks magnificent. As good as it looks, it tastes even better:

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I didn’t even look at the menu, I just ordered what my friends recommended, but they also said you can’t order anything wrong there, it is all good. I had the zubaidi cooked flat; it is served with rice and a green marag (sauce) that was delicious. Because it was so delicious, we all ate too much, and sat looking at all the food we couldn’t finish in dismay. Next time we go, I think we will share one fish to every two people – I hate wasting such exquisitely prepared food.

Kareem has told us many times about the words of Mohammed that a good Moslem should only eat to the point of “enough,” not to the point of “full” but I think we all violated it that evening. We meant to stop, we really did, but it was so delicious we kept nibbling.

Thank God, this is not a fast food restaurant. There is a man playing Al oud live in the background, as we continue to chat, but with less animation as our bellies groan . . .

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We are finished eating, truly finished, but then they bring a plate of beautiful fresh fruit, every piece perfect, and we continue our evening together, refreshed by the fruit, drinking hot tea, relaxing – there is no pressure to leave, they are not hurrying us out of the restaurant.

I’ve been looking for a Kuwaiti restaurant, and I just love it that when they found it, our friends shared their find with me. It’s a great place to take visitors who come to Kuwait. It is expensive – so AdventureMan tells me (I didn’t look at the menu, remember?) and so worth it. The menu is mostly limited to fresh fish and fresh salad/appetizers – hummous, mutable, etc. and everything is prepared with thoughtful care.

If there are any drawbacks, it is that with all the hard surfaces, once the restaurant fills up and the music starts, it is harder to make conversation. Also, the smokers get the best part of the restaurant, out near the beach. Having said that, when it is dark, it hardly matters and you can see the city lights of Kuwait from any part of the restaurant. Service is excellent and the food is memorable for its excellence.

March 13, 2008 Posted by | Cooking, Cultural, Customer Service, Eating Out, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Local Lore | 13 Comments

Photography Contest

I received this in the e-mail this morning – I wonder if there is any requirement to BE Muslim? I like the idea of the contest and thought I would pass it along to you, which is (I am guessing) the reason someone sent it to me:


Audio Visual & Cinematic Department of Culture in the East Azerbaijan provience in cooperation with the E-A Society for Artistic Photography is going to plan the “First International Artistic Photography Contest on Islamic Unity”.The organizers belive that there are many symbolic – abstractor real subjects around the world of Islam & Muslems that can be artisticly photographed – exhibited and saved to show the next generatins as well as gathering all muslems in one community.

The Contest will be held with the regulations as below:

1. All photographers form all over the world can participate.

2. Both B&W and Colour photos are accepted (up to 10 photos)

3. A copy of photos(1000 pixel) must be sent for judging and the accepted works will be asked to be sent or printed

in large size in full resolution after the first selections by the jury. (negatives and slide films can be scanned or printed in small size 13*18 cm to send)

4. Selected photos will not be returned. and will be exhibited in galleries. and will not be returned.

5. All selected photos will be published in a book and will be sent to the winners and those whose works are selected.

6. There will be 10 prize winners who wil be invited to attend the exhibition and the Winners Award Ceremony.

7. All rights of accepted photos belong to the photographers and organizers will only use photos to publish a catalogue and hold exhibitions.

8. All other unpredicted terms will be decided by the organizer.

9. Workshops will be held by the organizers during the contest.

10. Attach your name, address and the title of the work on the rear of each work.

Prizes:

Winners will receive An honorary diploma and prizes in cash as below:

1 st Prize (1000 euros in cash(

2 nd Prize (800 euros in cash)

‌3 rd Prize (500 euros in cash(

And From 4th to 10th selected by the jury (300 euros for each(

Closing date for arrivals of entries: 3/April/2008

Judging and announcement to the winners / selected works: 4/ May/2008

Exhibition: winners award ceremony 23/May/2008

http://www.akseensejam.ir

All entries must be sent to:

info@akseensejam.ir

March 12, 2008 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Photos, Public Art | , , | 3 Comments

Fuzzy Sunrise

When I got up this morning and saw all the clouds, I didn’t think we were going to get much of a sunrise. Then I had to run and grab the camera as signs of light started to appear – and it all turned out gloriously. The sun has once again hidden behind the heavy clouds (I keep hoping for rain) but – we had a moment. . .

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It is 73°F / 23°C at 0700, temperatures expected to go up to 87°F / 31°C today.

March 12, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Lumix, Photos, sunrise series, Weather | 4 Comments

93°F / 34°C

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The forecast for today was 84°F/ 29°C, but my place is heating up; it feels a little STEAMY. Weather Underground: Kuwait says it is 93°F / 34°C – and it is only March 11. Isn’t this a little early to be having this kind of weather? Doesn’t Spring last just a little longer? I remember back in October/November when it would get below 100°F and we would all start to talk about how much cooler it was feeling. This just isn’t right!

March 11, 2008 Posted by | ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Weather | 9 Comments