Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Underwear Uproar in Saudi Arabia

There is an article today on BBC News (you can read the entire article by clicking here) on the underwear uproar in Saudi Arabia – that to buy underwear, women have to deal with male clerks. And more – there is nowhere to try on a bra to make sure you get the right fit! You have to pay, go to the public restroom, try it on and bring it back if it is not right.

One of the most amazing things to me, besides having only men selling underwear in Saudi Arabia, was the fact that the most amazing lingerie was in the most public windows. My favorite I-would-love-to-take-this-photo moments was watching abayed and niqabed women standing next to some of the tiniest, most sexy underwear you could imagine.

i know you think we are looser in the west, but you would laugh to know how restrained we really are. For the most part, we just don’t discuss underwear.

And have you noticed – in the United States, the mannekins don’t have nipples? I was shocked the first time I saw mannekins in Europe and the Middle East – the females had nipples! I had to look away! We are prudish in funny ways, in ways you can’t begin to imagine, and in ways we don’t even realize until we are confronted with our own what-we-think-is-normal.

I cannot imagine men in the ladies lingerie section. I buy all my underwear back in the US; I am too shy to buy underwear from a man! In Kuwait, they have females selling La Perla, very nice underwear, but most of the really good ready-made clothing in Kuwait is for size 00 – 2 girls – not for grown up women. It’s just easier buying my “unmentionables” discreetly on my trips back home. I carry a list. Most of us do. 😉

Here is the article:

Saudi lingerie trade in a twist

By Stephanie Hancock
BBC News, Jeddah

It would be bizarre in any country to find that its lingerie shops are staffed entirely by men.
But in Saudi Arabia – an ultra-conservative nation where unmarried men and women cannot even be alone in a room together if they are not related – it is strange in the extreme.
Women, forced to negotiate their most intimate of purchases with male strangers, call the situation appalling and are demanding the system be changed.

“The way that underwear is being sold in Saudi Arabia is simply not acceptable to any population living anywhere in the modern world,” says Reem Asaad, a finance lecturer at Dar al-Hikma Women’s College in Jeddah, who is leading a campaign to get women working in lingerie shops rather than men.

“This is a sensitive part of women’s bodies,” adds Ms Asaad. “You need to have some discussions regarding size, colour and attractive choices and you definitely don’t want to get into such a discussion with a stranger, let alone a male stranger. I mean this is something I wouldn’t even talk to my friends about.”

In theory, it should be easy enough to get women to staff lingerie shops, but parts of Saudi society are still very traditional and don’t like the idea of women working – even if it’s just to sell underwear to each other.

Rana Jad is a 20-year-old student at Dar al-Hikma Women’s College, and one of Reem Asaad’s pupils and campaign supporters.

“Girls don’t feel very comfortable when males are selling them lingerie, telling them what size they need, and saying ‘I think this is small on you, I think this is large on you’,” she says.
“He’s totally checking the girls out! It’s just not appropriate, especially here in our culture.”

February 25, 2009 Posted by | Cross Cultural, Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Saudi Arabia, Shopping | 7 Comments

Mubarakiyya Souk Magic

These are not part of The Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge. (If you haven’t voted, please go there and vote for your favorite.) These are photos I take to document what places “used to look like.” In Germany, I took photos, but twenty years later I could take the same exact photo. Most of the buildings built a couple hundred years ago are still standing – even some built three or four hundred years ago still have the same foundations (and problems with seepage, etc. )

Not so in places like Kuwait and Doha. You look away for a second and something is gone. Can anyone tell me where the Tarek Rajab Museum store has gone? Do they have a new location? It used to be in Salmiyya; the last time I took people there – it was gone. Just gone! And entire block of stores has disappeared.

So here, for posterity, are some photos I have taken of Mubarakiyya Market, because I love the quirkiness of the place and because there is some really interesting public art there. Also, because so many of my readers are in schools across the US and Europe, and they are hungry to see what different places look like.

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Delicious olives, every one different!
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I am totally addicted to these dried pomegranate seeds, which are also called anardana:
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These portraits of two different butchers show such individuality. These are not some stylized ideographs; these portraits give the impression of being real butchers. I wonder if I could find the originals and stand them next to their portraits?
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Look at these painted carpets! They lift the entire mood of this utilitarian area. Look how bright and clean this area is, easily washed down, entirely of tiles and washable surfaces:
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Look how this artist extended his painting to include the store on the right:
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Where does anyone else sell slingshots these days? I fear for the poor market cats, when young men get their hands on these.
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February 5, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Blogging, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, Public Art, Shopping | , | 4 Comments

TeaGirl – Final Entry in the Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

. . . Just under the wire, Teagirl sends in five spectacular entries from her archives. These are wonderful photos, TeaGirl:

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Look at the composition on these photos – TeaGirl has the eye of a painter. I would love to know how you got that poster-effect in the second photo. Every face is beautiful in these shots; I would call the collection The Dignity of Work. Lovely photos, TeaGirl.

February 1, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | | 4 Comments

Wooo HOOO, ShoSho! The Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

Watch out! Ya’ll have some serious competition! ShoSho sent these in, and she blew me out of the water. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wait till you see:

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How does she do it? Look at those colors, look how saturated they are!

My friends, I remind you, the deadline in January 31st. You still have this one week to get your entries in.

I am heartened by the number of cameras I see down in the market – whether you enter or not, you are down there, taking photos and enjoying the sights and sounds and smells and tastes of a Kuwait national treasure.

Even the way the vegetables and fish are arranged shows artistry and an eye for beauty and composition. Look how ShoSho captures the colors and textures of the Sadu woven goods and carpets. Wow. Wow. Wow.

Send your photos to Intlxpatr@aol.com. If you send them, I will print them. 🙂

(ShoSho, you set a very high standard to beat!)

January 24, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Photos, Shopping | , , | 7 Comments

Mubarakiyya Food Court

Several people have asked where the Fatayer Man is in Mubarakiyya.

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Here is what the area looks like:
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Here is a GoogleMap of the area (isn’t this amazing? Isn’t GoogleEarth amazing? I can’t believe such great technology is give to us for free. I wish I were smarter, I wish I could put arrows on the map, and stars, but I can’t figure out how to do that . . . yet!

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You will see three lines of white running parallel – those are covers over the walkways in the main part of the souks. There are others, but this is the heart, where they sell vegetables, meat and fish. You walk straight down one of them until you get to the open court – you will see a mosque. In the GoogleEarth photo, you will see a round gold circle – that is the dome.

Just below the mosque, in the photo, you will see restaurant seating areas. The one closest to the entrance to the “food court” is the Malik al Saj, or King of (a particular type of) Bread; it is written on a great big blue Pepsi sign, and there are lots of waiters there eager to seat you. The food is fresh, and very good.

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Now look at the map again. You will see more seating lower in the photo, over to the left. It is just around the corner from the other restaurant areas. This second area is where the fatayer man is. Just go down around that corner, peek into the restaurant areas until you see him hard at work, and then sit in the area just in front of where he is working. If you order tea, in this cold weather, they will bring you a pot with a charcoal heater, to savor while your fatayer is baking.

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You can find these tea-heaters in the souks, too, but don’t use them inside, because they need charcoal, and using charcoal inside is a really bad (as in fatal) idea.

Words you need to know if you are not an Arabic speaker:

Chai – tea
fatayer – a breakfast bread filled with “jibn” (cheese), Halloumi (salty cheese) zatar (thyme-sumak spice mix) or jibn/halloumi wa zatar (cheese/salty cheese with thyme-sumak mix)
shish taouk – marinated, grilled chicken on a skewer
semak – fish (some of the fish served is amazing)
mixed grill – mixed grill 🙂

Happy eating! Go while the weather is cool and wonderful!

January 19, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Food, Hot drinks, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Shopping, Weather | , , | 7 Comments

Villa Moda Sale

I was out goofing off with a bunch of girlfriends when one said “Let’s go to the Villa Moda sale and see what they’ve got in today.”

These are my bestest friends. I’m the driver. They are all excited. We go.

It is in a building I have always been curious about, that great big building on Gulf Road in Salwa, south of Bida’a circle, the one that has palm trees growing out of it. I have always figured it was a wedding hall or something, and wondered what it looked like inside, so once I got my friends all OOhing and aahing and arms loaded with things to try on and all the Manolo Blahniks, I snuck off and took some photos of the interior, which is sort of Middle-Eastern done by Disney:

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All this was just the basement! Literally, a bargain basement, some items marked 90% off. Women were leaving with armloads of clothes, shoes and accessories.

I would love to get a glimpse of the upstairs. 🙂

January 18, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | 9 Comments

Bu Yousef: Fancy a Date? Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

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Woo HOO, Bu Yousef! This is one great photo! I can almost taste the date, but even better – I love the gleam on the vendor’s face! More, please, Bu Yousef!

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Character, ExPat Life, Food, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Photos, Shopping | | 8 Comments

DaisyMae: Number 1 Entry in the Great Kuwait Market Magic Challenge

DaisyMae is our first challenger, with recent photos from the souks. Woo Hoooo on you, DaisyMae! Thank you for showing us the markets through your eyes.

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WHO is next? Is it YOU? 🙂

January 13, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Cross Cultural, Cultural, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | 3 Comments

The Great Kuwait Market Magic Photo Challenge

OK my friends. You know how this works. There is no great prize, except the thrill of the hunt, and the sharing with those who share your passion. And before we go on, I want to give credit to Yousef, at Some Contrast who took some truly fabulous photos at the Souk Mubarakiyya last week and wrote up a delightful article about it.

Today, the Great Kuwait Market Magic Photo Challenge kicks off. I would limit it to Mubarakiyya, but if I did, I might miss the magic YOU see in the Sharq market, or one of the fish markets or . . .

The weather is gorgeous. The lighting is fabulous. Go forth and capture the magic of the market. Send your photo to me and I will publish it here. Or you can publish it on your blog and tell us in the comments section of this blog entry, if that is your preference. The deadline will be January 31st, and I will post a poll so we can all vote on our favorites.

WOO HOO on you, Kuwait photographers.

I have a thing about bread, so here is what inspired this post:

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This man, in the Mubarakiyya food court near the mosque, makes fatayer that I think are to die for. You can sit outside in the warmth of the Kuwaiti morning, and sip a little tea with mint and one of these fatayer (we like halloumi and zatar) will more than take care of your morning treat. 🙂

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For about one month of the year, being the man who puts the bread in the oven – it’s done by hand, for those of you who don’t live here – must be a joy. The rest of the year, I can’t begin to imagine . . .

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This is a more modern oven, but it still looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel, doesn’t it? (Hansel and Gretel is one of many particularly gruesome “fairytales” children in the West are raised with. There are many horrifying tales – read the Grimm brothers. Wicked parents, wicked stepparents, a horror filled life for children.)

Back to the topic – go forth, Kuwait, and show us what you see in the markets!

January 12, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Photos, Shopping | , | 16 Comments

The Apple Store Christmas

Just before leaving, we make one last stop at the Apple store; AdventureMan needs a tune-up. All the Apple employees have on shirts with Christmas related sayings, very clever, wish I could remember a few to share with you.

In an instant, AdventureMan has an appointment, and with another instant, the glitch is fixed and we are on our way.

Love their display windows:
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The other stores at the mall may look a little ghost-town-y, but not the Apple store (although this is NOT busy for the Apple store):
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The air is crisp, to say the least, and no relief is in sight. Guess it’s time to get on back to Kuwait, where the temperatures are above zero F. 🙂

December 17, 2008 Posted by | Cultural, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Kuwait, Seattle, Shopping, Technical Issue | 5 Comments