Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Walking Old Damascus (3)

I can never get enough of Old Damascus, but for those of you who are bored already, I will only do one more after this one. And my friends, I am only skimming the surface – Damascus can keep you busy and happy for a long time. Along one of our favorite streets, Al Qamariyya, we saw a sign that said Calligraphy and Lute instruction, and we looked at each other with a grin – we could be happy for weeks learning lute and calligraphy!

We had met up with an old friend who loves Damascus as we do, and he suggested a walk OUTSIDE the walls, from Bab Thouma (Thomas’ gate) to the Bab Es Salaam, which we did. The Bab Thouma is only a five minute walk from our hotel, straight up al Hijari, crossing Street Called Straight where it becomes Sharia Bab Thouma – how easy can it be?

The walk along the northern outside walls in this section is spectacular. For one thing, look at the differing levels of construction in this, one of the remaining walls of Old Damascus:




From outside the northern wall, looking north toward the mountains:


Then you come to the Gate of Peace/ Bab es Salaam:


There is a whirl of reconstruction going on in the old city. Some fear modernizations which will change the character of the old town, but others say that the restrictions won’t allow that to happen – we shall see:



Here is what we love – in every country, you will find volunteer supervisors where construction or reconstruction are going on:


One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to Ananias’ chapel. This is not the actual spot where Ananias baptized Paul, a mosque has been built over that site (It is called the Jakmak Mosque and you can see it in the long covered souk at the beginning of the Street Called Straight) but this is the church/chapel which commemorates that baptism, and it is very beautiful.


Time for a cup of coffee, and to plan the next walking expedition, and we find this wonderful cafe next to the church at Bab Sharqi:


We think there is a museum for the Hijaz Railway, which fascinates AdventureMan, but this is all we can find:


At our friend’s recommendation, we also try the Old Town restaurant, and we like it so much we go there twice:


Nice to have some pasta for a change, and the pasta here is really good!


Interesting old balcony:


I keep looking for the Issa/Jesus spire of the Umayyad mosque, and I think this might be it, but I am not sure. Legend has it that this is where Jesus will prevail over the forces of darkness and evil on the Last Day.


We are told you MUST make a stop at Leila’s, near the Ummayad Mosque, near the Hamadiyya Souks, and so we do. It is very conveniently located when you are shopping for visiting the mosque:


They had a Baba Ghannoush there unlike any I have had before, but very much like something we used to eat in Tunisia, called mechoia – grilled eggplant and peppers and garlic, with a very smokey taste. Yummmmy!


You know me and light fixtures – this is one of the Leila lamps:


Tomorrow I will take you to our absolute favorite restaurant in Damascus, and finish up the trip, I promise, as much as I hate to leave!

(Happy Islamic New Year!)

January 10, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Building, Cold Drinks, Cultural, Education, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Lumix, Photos, Travel | , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Salary Belongs to Husband?

Muna al-Fuzai had a column yesterday in the Kuwait Times entitled Kuwaiti Women Accept Discrimination. (You can read the whole article by clicking on the blue type.)

In this article is one small paragraph that sends shivers down my spine:

A religious Islamic ruling was made recently to approve the husband’s right to take his wife’s salary because the time she spent outside was his own and thus he is entitled to take her salary, which she has worked so hard to earn.

It doesn’t sound to me as if it has the weight of law – like the first question I ask is:

• “do all Islamic religious rulers believe this to be true, or is this one guy’s opinion?”

• is it possible for this ruling to receive enough support to make it law?

• if it becomes law in Kuwait, does this law apply to all people living in Kuwait, or just to Kuwaitis?

This, to me, is a very scary ruling.

I’ve been married to AdventureMan for a long time. We’ve always discussed finances together, and we’ve both agreed on how to allocate our money and salaries. Sharing is very different from my earnings being controlled by someone else, no discussion. Or maybe discussion, but not necessarily.

But I am not Kuwaiti. If you are working, have ever worked, or intend to work, how does this ruling strike you?

January 10, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Community, Cross Cultural, Education, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, News, Political Issues, Relationships, Social Issues, Women's Issues | 18 Comments

Naughty or Nice?

Blogger N. at One or the Other asks readers and visitors to vote on whether they are naughty or Nice? Blogger Fourme, rightly comments that we don’t have any definition of naughty or nice by which to define ourselves and that she will refrain from voting.

Most of the voters are naughty, by the way.

It gave me a big grin.

Isn’t “naughty” or “nice” greatly in the mind of the beholder?

Once, when I was the young wife of a young army officer, I got up my courage and wrote a letter to the editor. It turned out to be a controversial letter; I got one very sarcastic response from the authority I questioned, and then, a week later, all hell broke loose as readers from all over Europe bombed the one who replied. I felt scared, but a little proud to have raised the issue.

I was working in the library. THE COLONEL’S WIFE (that is how we thought of her) walked in and said to me “we don’t get our names in newspapers. It isn’t done.” And then she walked out.

Then I really felt scared. And I really felt naughty. And at the same time, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Sometimes, don’t you have to say something? When you see something that is not right? And is that really naughty?

January 10, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Biography, Bureaucracy, Communication, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Generational, Germany, Relationships, Social Issues, Women's Issues | , , | 5 Comments