Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Superlative Day: Gone Fishing

I’ve had some great and memorable days in my life, and this is one of them. My good friend said “Hey, you want to go fishing Friday?” and I said “Yes!” I had to go get a one-day fishing license, and I could add crab for a mere 50 cents, so I did.

We met up at 6:30 a.m. and were on the water by 7 a.m. on one of the hottest day’s in Seattle’s summer. As we left the marina, we passed an Eagle. (We thought of you, AdventureMan!)

AdventureMan must have heard us talking about him, because as the sun rises, he calls from Kuwait, eating Felafel sandwiches and ice cream as we watch the sun rise:

And set the crab traps – this is what an empty crab trap looks like. We put turkey legs and old fish heads in the bait box to attract the crabs:

It is a gorgeous morning. As my friends dig out the fishing polls, I admire the mountains and the sparkles on the waters of Puget Sound:

My friend has baited my hook and hands the rod to me. I lower the weight to the bottom, pull it up just a little and – an immediate nibble:

He’s a good size and he’s a keeper. My friend grabs my camera to take my photo with my first fish of the day, I hold the fish up – and just as she is snapping the shot, the fish does a little flip right off the hook and back into the water!

It doesn’t matter – the fish are biting and we are hauling them in. Some are too small; we take them off the hooks and throw them back, telling them to have a good life, grow big and we will see them again, we hope!

After about an hour of superlative fishing, we go back to check the crab pots. They are HEAVY with crab!

You can’t keep any female crab, or any male under a certain size, so any crab you think you might want to keep, you have to measure. You get a HUGE fine if you are caught with undersize crab. As we bring in the crab and the fish, my friend notes them down on our licence records, which have to be sent in to the state at the end of the season, listing fish we have caught, crab we have caught, and how many we threw back.

We catch a couple rock crab – those you don’t have to measure, and you can keep. Most of what we catch is the sweet and delectable Dungeness Crab – my very favorite after Alaska King Crab.

We had just decided to quit for the day – it was getting really, really HOT for Seattle, like 90°F/33°C (and there is an advisory for hot weather, and air stagnation) and we have nearly our limit for crab, and a respectable amount of fish, and we are happy, happy fisherpeople! Just as I am about to raise my line, I get a big bite, and catch the last fish!

Here is our bucket, full of fish. The cooler is full of crab. What a great day to be alive.

August 16, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Bureaucracy, Community, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Kuwait, Law and Order, Living Conditions, Seattle, sunrise series, Travel, Weather | | 25 Comments

Hard Times

I noticed it right away, driving home on the Seattle freeway – a significantly reduced number of cars, and NO one is speeding. Seattle has outgrown it’s freeways – even early mornings the roads are packed. Or they were – they aren’t now.

At first, I thought I might be imagining it, but the trip down to the ocean cabin in Oregon and back up and through and into Seattle several times have only driven the point home – there are fewer cars on the road.

The Starbuck’s have fewer customers. This is mid-summer, normally a carefree, free-spending time, but not this summer.

There are also fewer shoppers in the stores – and, in downtown Seattle, many of the shoppers were foreigners, here to take advantage of the bargains provided by the weakened dollar. I have to admit, it’s humbling to be a bargain destination. I know many Kuwaitis headed for the USA this summer, enjoying an improved exchange rate.

Sitting in Barnes and Noble with a friend, we heard a very plummy voice giving directions to friends who were to meet them there.

“We drove through the most amazing rural area,” she trilled, “SO picturesque, you must try to find it, it is called Bothell.”

Bothell picturesque? Bothell rural? Bothell is a bedroom community to Seattle, full of sub-divisions where there used to be farms. I wanted to give her a dirty look, but I remember saying the same things – glowing about the desert and camels or sweet little French villages, and I just figure what goes around comes around and I am just getting a little payback.

It’s also scary seeing how much prices have gone up – eggs! The same problem Kuwait is having – eggs are more expensive. Rice is more expensive. My Mother thinks some merchants are just marking things up because they can, and they can blame it on oil and it’s all just GREED.

I think all this has a lot to do with perception. Right now, people are feeling insecure and are trying not to spend too much money, not knowing what is around the corner. Americans have an irrepressible sends of optimism, and I suspect that a more positive approach will take hold in the next few months. Once it does, markets will rise, people will be spending again . . . and I wonder if the prices will go down, or just keep going up?

August 14, 2008 Posted by | Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Financial Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Seattle, Shopping, Social Issues | 24 Comments

Pacific Northwest Signs and Sights

August 13, 2008 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Communication, Community, Cultural, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Photos, Travel | 6 Comments

Geraldine Brooks: March

Geraldine Brooks knocks my socks off. If she writes a book, fiction or non-fiction, I will buy it and read it. The first one I read by her was Nine Parts Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic Women, and the second most memorable book was her Year of Wonders, a book about how the plague comes to a 17th century English village and how the villagers cope with it – how some survive. She has a knack for keen observations, and for writing so as to place you squarely in the scene she is describing.

So when she came out with a new book extrapolating from the experiences protrayed in Louisa May Alcott’s classic favorite Little Women, why didn’t I rush to buy it? March is described by Publisher’s Weekly as “the Civil War experiences of Mr. March, the absent father in Louisa May Alcott’s Little Women.”

Didn’t you love Little Women when you read it? What’s not to love? Those wonderful sisters, their saintly mother, working together, suffering together, prevailing through sheer grit and determination – we can read that book over and over again, loving it every time.

Geraldine Brooks takes us with Mr. March into the grim realities of the American Civil War, the “war to free the slaves,” the war to keep the United States united, or the war between the states. This is not the idealized world of Little Women, this is not the memory we have of the nice letters he writes home from the field, this is the reality of war and all it’s ugliness. As the book opens, Mr. March is fleeing a massacre, struggling to survive, he is surrounded by the dead and seriously wounded, bullets are flying past him and he has to cross a deep, rushing river. A man grabs him who can’t swim, and he has to push him away to gasp for air. The man drowns, March survives, feeling deep guilt. When he finally finds a group of his men, drying out by the side of the river, he sits down and writes to his girls about the sweet breeze in the air. Not a word about the horrors he has witnessed, not his personal despair about having failed a wounded comrade.

As we experience the horrors of this war with Mr. March, we experience with him the brutality, cruelty, and crudity of all conflict. There are no good guys. There is no “just cause,” just winners and losers, and it’s very hard to tell what they are fighting for. Seeing this war from the point of view of the combatants, we realize that no-one will remain untouched; that this experience will resonate through the rest of their lives.

Geraldine Brooks knows how to grab us and keep us gripped. Every chapter reveals a new facet – how March and Marnee met and married, how they built a life together, how, in their idealism, they lost everything. Most discouraging of all is how, below the surface, they understand themselves and one another and their relationship so little.

I dare you to read this book. It isn’t an easy book, and at the same time, it is a book with timeless qualities, and a book that will get you thinking and keep you thinking for a long time. Isn’t that the definition of a good book?

August 13, 2008 Posted by | Books, Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Family Issues, Fiction, Living Conditions, Marriage, Mating Behavior, Political Issues, Relationships, Social Issues | , | 4 Comments

Summer Sunday at the Pike Place Market

We have a great favorite tradition – hit the early service, 0800 – what my friend calls “speed church”, the one hour service instead of the longer family services – and then head straight for the Pike Place Market. Things get started there slowly on a summer Sunday morning, and we even found a free parking space – totally amazing.

First stop is breakfast at Campagne. We don’t have reservations, but they find a place for us:


The sun breaks forth and the market is teeming with people by the time we are finishing up:

In the 1970’s, the market was a little run-down and shabby, and many business people wanted to raze it and use the space for office buildings. Seattle residents said “NO!” and instead, the market was revitalized. It is one of the major tourist destinations in the city, and a lively spot every day of the week.

A long time ago, before the big Seattle fire, my family lived just up the street from this market.

August 11, 2008 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Bureaucracy, Community, Cross Cultural, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Living Conditions, Seattle, Social Issues | 8 Comments

Let’s Go Fly a Kite

There is so much to do!

There is a long walking promenade along the beach, wide enough for bicycles, moms with strollers, people skating, people walking their dogs, and people just walking or jogging.

On the beach, people are swimming, sunning, building magnificent sand castles, fishing, and . . . flying kites.

Some of the kites are purely magnificent. Here is my favorite – a pirate ship!

August 4, 2008 Posted by | Adventure, Community, Cross Cultural, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Living Conditions, Relationships, Seattle | , | 5 Comments

Seattle OKs Bag Fee

From the Seattle Post Intelligencer:

City OKs 20-cent fee on plastic, paper bags
Council also outlaws foam food and drink containers

By KATHY MULADY
P-I REPORTER

Move over, baseball caps and T-shirts.

Logo-emblazoned cloth grocery bags could soon become the most popular company freebie in the Puget Sound region.

Seattle became on Monday one of the first major American cities to discourage the use of paper and plastic shopping bags by requiring grocery, drug and convenience stores to charge 20 cents per bag. In a related action, the City Council also banned plastic foam food and drink containers.

Both laws will go into effect Jan. 1.

People can avoid the fees by bringing their own reusable bags when they shop. The city of Seattle will launch a 90-day education effort to help people figure out the best ways to use cloth bags, and remember to take them when they go shopping. The city also plans to provide residents with a couple of free bags.

One of my favorite stores, Trader Joe’s, has been selling reusable bags forever. They now have a display with many sizes and designs to choose from:

I’m really trying hard. I have a friend who is so conscientious about recycling, she always carries her own bags, and her actions have influenced me greatly. She believes even one person makes a difference, and I believe her – I can see that her behavior has already changed mine! I am trying to carry my own reusable bags now, too.

Especially for my Kuwait/Gulf/Middle East readers, I got a big grin when I saw this in the prepared food section:

A ready-to-go lunch, with felafel, hummous, tabouli and a little bit of flat bread.

August 1, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Character, Community, Cross Cultural, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Financial Issues, Living Conditions, Middle East, Seattle, Shopping, Social Issues | 10 Comments

Off the Banned Driver List

When I got to the car rental counter, the polite man behind the counter typed in all the information and then blanched.

“Ummm, ” he started off, very embarrassed, “there is a problem . . . . ”

I knew, I just knew what was coming. I had even sent the car rental agency an e-mail asking them to check to make sure everything was straight.

“You’re on our banned driver list.” he finished up.

If it hadn’t happened before – TWICE – I would have been a lot more embarrassed. Now, I am just annoyed.

When I came in here last time, I didn’t know my license had expired. Fortunately, I have another driver’s license, so they let me use that one – it is the license that is banned, not the driver (yeh, go figure). The very next day, I was the first one in line at the driver’s license place and renewed my license in less than five minutes. It’s easy. I just explain that I live in Kuwait and don’t always have access to registration facilities! They understand.

But when I got to California and went to rent again – same problem. Again, they let me drive on my other license.

So third time is the charm. Once again, they give me a car based on the second license (I mean, isn’t that funny in itself; you have this BANNED person and you give her a car because she can show you another license???)

The counter guy gave me a sheet of paper with an intimidating list of the possible reasons I was banned, including expired license, but also things like fleeing the scene of an accident, or felony warrants and things like that. (If you could see me, you would know how dyingly funny this is.) Before I even took the car, I called their security people. It took a total of 30 seconds. I told them I renewed the license, they checked, found out I was not lying and BINGO! I am no longer a BANNED person.

I knew what the problem was, but being BANNED made me feel terrible. It was so unfair. It made me think about labels, and how even though they are just words, words can make you feel really really BAD. I truly hated being a BANNED person.

July 31, 2008 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Community, Customer Service, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Seattle | 6 Comments

Ivar’s Customer Service

In all the world, the restaurant I love above all others is Ivar’s, and the good news for me is that Ivar’s has branches all over Seattle. They have big, full service restaurants, they have counters in the food courts in all the malls, they have branches all over the city, sort of like fast-food Ivar’s, and then they have a couple branches by the ferry-boat lines, so people taking the ferries to the islands can just grab some fish and chips to go. Or clam chowder. Yummm.

You all think I come to Seattle and just sit back and eat bonbons, but you are SO wrong. I do all my medical check ups, and get new glasses, and try to take care of all kinds of business. So I am waiting for my glasses to be ready in one hour, and I go to the nearby food court where I know there is an Ivar’s. I was having blood tests this morning, so I have fasted since midnight the night before and I am HUNGRY.

When I get to the Ivar’s, I order the Salmon Ceasar, which the big sign says is $8.69.

“Is that the lunch special Salmon Ceasar?” the counter guy asks.

I am desperately looking for a sign and I don’t see one, so I say “yes.”

The price is WAYYYYY less than a dinner Salmon Ceasar, and the salmon is almost the same size, just a little less lettuce, or so it looks to me.

How often to restaurants ask you if you would like LESS instead of more? Often, when we order, the server asks “is that all?” and my usual answer is “isn’t that enough?” Like we are not supposed to be in the restaurant unless we are going to order more?

When my lunch comes, there is also a form – you will see it below. It is a very brave form – I always admire restaurants that genuinely ask for feedback.

(At one restaurant in Kuwait, I wrote I would never be back because they didn’t have the kind of pizza I like, and AdventureMan said “the home office will never see that one!” because he believes that the bad ones are probably tossed away.)

I’m only sharing this with you because I really love Ivar’s food, and I really love their approach to the customer.

July 30, 2008 Posted by | Community, Customer Service, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions | 12 Comments

Paid Their Dues and Deported

From today’s Kuwait Times:

KUWAIT: The government reached an agreement with Asian workers yesterday to end a three-day strike over pay and conditions, state news agency KUNA said. Three hundred protesters were also deported after being paid their dues, Kuwait Times has learned. Earlier, hundreds of mainly Bangladeshi workers went on strike for a third day, seeking better pay and improved working conditions, with some overturning cars and ransacking offices.

This all started back a couple weeks ago – remember the hospital worker’s strike? The gas station attendant’s strike? And then the Kuwait Times wrote an article that the company had agreed to pay wages and the workers were going back to work.

The next day, the workers said there had never been any agreement, and no one had been paid! They lied, and hoped the problem would go away.

So my question today is – I believe 300 were deported – maybe more. Do you believe they were paid all their wages?

Several citizens were angry these people had chosen to demonstrate, riot, strike, etc and suggested they should take their case to the Kuwait courts. Do they have eyes to see? These are the little guys you see at the street corners, they don’t speak English or Arabic, they don’t have enough to eat, they don’t even have privacy or clothing or their wages. Go to court? How do they go to court?

I have always loved the verse in the Qur’an that talks about paying the laborer for his work before the sweat has dried on his back. I think there are some very guilty employers out there, and some very slimy recruiters, who bring people in with a whiff of hope for a better tomorrow, and then cheat them. It will be on their heads.

July 29, 2008 Posted by | Community, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Social Issues | | 17 Comments