Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Souk al Waqif: Men’s Souks

AdventureMan and I have a tradition, and that is we like to go shopping together before Christmas, helps him help Santa Clause with things to put in my Christmas stocking, and gives us precious time together in a relaxed setting.

So of course, we headed to our favorite place, the Souk al Waqif, where I discovered that the place I love the most to buy scarves – he always has things no one else has – was totally out of scarves! Well, he had six hanging up, but they were not special. I said “Where are the scarves??” and he laughed and said “Sold out!” and I said “Well that is good for you but not so good for me!” and we both laughed. He said he will be getting more early in January, but that is no help to Santa!

Then we wandered over into the older area of the souks, closest to Grand Hamad street. There is a new shop with beautiful misbah (worry beads) and unusual treasures. We wandered further, and came upon the falcon souk.

OK, I get it, the rest of you knew all about it, but I think because I usually go early in the morning, maybe this area isn’t open when I go – I have seen the seats outside, the majlis area, but I never saw the falcons before, not in the new souks. What fun! But aside from tourist women, there are no women in this area – the falcon souk, the camping souk, the hunting souk – these are very masculine domains, Guy Souks.

And they are equally lovely:

In this hallway, everything is giant. Hanging up above is a giant falcon glove, a giant falcon hood, and at the end of the hall, where the men with falcons are entering, are two gigantic falcon stands.

Look at this beautiful space! I think there are some offices around this space, as well as shops:

The camping and hunting souks have all kinds of tentings, bedrolls, washing up fixtures, etc, not so good for camping in the Pacific Northwest, but great for desert camping and hunting:

When the hardware souks and shoe repair souks were cleared out of the main street, I wondered where they had gone, and last night we found them. To my joy, I also found the scribes! I had been told they dispersed, went to various police stations to do their translations, fingerprints, etc. but last night I found them here! Right next to the police station! How have I missed them, all these evenings in the souks? I didn’t see them!

When first in Doha, where there is not one single modern hardware store, and before I had discovered my neighborhood hardware area, (remember, my secret vice is that I love hardware? and hardware stores?) I would go to the Souk al Waqif and start at one store saying “I need 3/4 inch masonry nails” and I would show them one. The man would leave his shop and take me to whichever of his buddies carried those nails. Or chains. Or bungee cords – they always had what I needed, or something close I could use. I’m glad to see the hardware shops are still there, along with the fishing and boating supply stores, and those huge pot and griddle stores.

Did you know Souk al Waqif had it’s own fire truck? Neither did we!

December 24, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Christmas, Community, Cultural, Doha, Entertainment, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Shopping | 11 Comments

Shaking Things Up

Away In a Manger,Animated

First, you have to understand how quietly AdventureMan and I live. He works long hard hours. He gets home, we eat dinner. Most nights we watch some TV together, usually some season of a program we enjoy.

But after dinner last night, we decided to take a walk, instead. While our family in the states is braving out a variety of winter storms, the weather here has become – WONDERFUL! There is a hint of freshness in the morning and evening, and while days are warm, they are comfortable. We walked our compound, enjoying ourselves thoroughly, looking at all the Christmas decorations, and Eid decorations still up. It was a great walk.

Once we came home, we settled in – or so we thought. We were about 15 minutes into the newest season of Lost when our doorbell rang, and a group arrived to give us a very special caroling session. It was so much fun – and thank goodness, I had some cookies on hand to share with the people who came caroling! It was a delightful and moving evening.

We settled down once again, and once again the doorbell rang, neighbors coming to tell us some very good news, a miracle, really, something we had all prayed for, and that they were going home briefly, and would see us in a week or so. We had a wonderful visit with them, were able to send them off with joy.

We looked at each other and grinned. All this was so totally out of the ordinary for our usual week-day nights, but wonderfully out of the ordinary. We like it when things get shaken up a little bit. 🙂

December 23, 2009 Posted by | Christmas, Community, Doha, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Living Conditions, Work Related Issues | Leave a comment

Anglican Christmas Services in Doha, Qatar

Children’s Service:
Crib and Christingle Thursday, 24 December 5 pm DESS

Family Services:
Christmas Day Service Friday, 25 December 10:30 am DESS

Christmas Evening Service Friday, 25 December 7:30 pm DESS

If you need additional information, you can email:
epiphany@qatar.net.qa

The church website is:
http://www.epiphany-qatar.org

December 21, 2009 Posted by | Christmas, Cultural, Events, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Spiritual | Leave a comment

Ritz Carlton Doha Christmas Tree Disappearing Act

I love the Ritz at Christmas time. They decorate so beautifully, and I especially love the huge, tall Christmas tree in the main lobby as you enter – it’s always a great spot for photos with friends and family, before brunch or after afternoon tea.

But when we went to the Ritz for brunch on Friday, Qatar National Day, the tree had disappeared! I guess it was too incongruous to have a huge, gorgeous Christmas tree inserted in all the special activities of Qatar National Day.

Here is what the tree looked like, LLLOOOOLLLLL!

December 20, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Cultural, Doha, Entertainment, Events, ExPat Life, Humor, Living Conditions, Qatar | 11 Comments

Qatar National Day Fireworks Video

So my friends, this is the very first video I have ever uploaded to YouTube, three minutes of the twenty minute spectacular fireworks display on the Corniche last night for Qatar National Day:

December 19, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Cultural, Doha, Events, ExPat Life, Living Conditions | , | 8 Comments

New Doha Details

Once I shot the skyline, that perfect morning last week, I had to drive down the Corniche and pick up some details. If Doha were more stop-friendly, there would be more. Sometimes, I am holding up the camera and shooting and not even able to see what exactly I am shooting because I am really focused on driving.

The good news is, for some reason, there isn’t a lot of traffic in the “business” section of Doha. Most buildings are still under construction, still unoccupied. But there are some spectacular buildings.

Some of the new buildings are breathtaking:

December 19, 2009 Posted by | Building, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Photos | 8 Comments

Qatar National Day Fireworks Spectacular

The problem is, even with the most amazing situation in the world, my wonderful little hand held Lumix can’t begin to capture the awe-inspiring grandeur of the 20 minute Qatar National Day Fireworks spectacular.

Another amazing thing – the fireworks started ON TIME. Suddenly the entire length of the Corniche erupted in white waterfalls. The fireworks were kept relatively close to the ground, and compact, but spread along a couple miles – it was an amazing feat, and the timing was to the second.

Caught in traffic, we decided to try something different. Like the Robert Frost poem, we took a road less travelled by, and it made all the difference. We lucked into a fantastic vantage point.

I have to add a special thanks here to AdventureMan. He knows how much I love fireworks, and I knew he has to work tomorrow, and still, he took me to see the fireworks. We were stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic until we took a chance, and by a miracle, found this fantastic, uncrowded vantage point. He love the fireworks as much as I did, but he did it for me, and my heart is full of gratitude. 🙂

December 18, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Cultural, Doha, Events, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Marriage, Qatar, Relationships | , | 14 Comments

Beautiful Day for a Parade

Friday morning, the sleep-in morning, but not today. It is a sweet, beautiful, morning and a perfect day for a parade:

I have my Qatar flags displayed in front of my house for Qatar National Day:

I used to fly Kuwait flags on Kuwait National Day, but the wind was so strong, they sometimes blew away!

There is a lot going on today – the parade, children’s activities, displays of all the military equipment, heritage sites – it’s a grand day to be in Qatar, especially – the fireworks tonight!

December 18, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Cultural, Doha, Events, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Qatar | 1 Comment

It’s Good To Be The Amir :-)

One of the first things visitors say when I take them around Doha is “It’s so clean!” said in a voice of total wonder. Doha IS clean, noticeably clean. Along the Corniche, everything is clean – and manicured. Doha is beautiful. The roads are beautiful, and getting beautifuller – er . . . more beautiful.

Qatar is not a democracy. It has a monarch, the Amir. The Amir has huge resources, and he channels much of his resources into infrastructure – highways, water treatment, electricity, parks (along the Corniche, wireless internet is provided to the community, totally FREE, miles of free internet), education – and serious work is being done to raise the level of education and educational possibilities continually – planning for future food and water, trying to insure that if and when the gas runs out, Qatar will have a sustainable economy.

It’s not a job I would want. It’s a lot of hard work, and who do you trust to share your vision and help you get the job done? Every day must have its frustrations, and the triumphs take a lot of work and perseverance. Building a country’s infrastructure is not for the faint-hearted.

But the job has its perks, and one of them is that you can create your own viewing stand for the 0800 Friday morning military review parade. This reviewing stand makes me grin. This Amir has some Events people with a flair for the dramatic and a tip of the hat to the traditional at the same time. While some complain that the new souks are like Disney Does Doha, anyone who used to go there and goes there now will tell you that there is new life in the souks. They are clean and safe and light and well cared for.

Anyway, I digress.

Here is where the Amir gets to sit to review his military at the parade tomorrow morning at 0800:

I was afraid to go any closer, as people were practicing for the parade, security might not like me taking photos, but how cool is this? They used original beit as-shar (house of hair, i.e. wool) fabric for the inner lining of the review tent. I totally love it. This fabric was originally made mostly from goat hair, but also stripes of sheep and camel hair. I have some. It’s tough and strong, and in panels, woven by the women. I don’t think they make tent bodies like this any more.

December 17, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Generational, Leadership, Living Conditions, Political Issues, Qatar, Social Issues, Work Related Issues | 7 Comments

Doha: The Best Time of the Year

We have the windows open and the A/C off, well, most of the time. Some times it gets humid, and we have to turn the AC on to keep our carpets and textiles from molding. Aarrgh!

Yesterday dawned a crisp 60+°F, clear, sunny, the birds are singing and I have errands to do but . . . it’s also a great day for taking photos. I decide maybe I can do both, but I give the photos a priority and get myself down to the Corniche.

There is also a part of me that wanted to see if I COULD drive on the Corniche; it has been on-again-off-again as people prepare for the grand parade at – oh yes, 0800 Friday morning.

0800 Friday morning? No one in Qatar is up at 0800 on Friday morning. You are going to START a parade at 0800 on Friday morning? Like soldiers will have to be up early? Pilots flying those cool fast little planes – up before dawn? This is Qatar – no one is up at 0800 on a Friday morning!

The weather is gorgeous and the photos take themselves. There has been so much building on the Corniche and over in the West Bay Business district:

Off in the distance, glimmering like Shangri-La, are the buildings going up on The Pearl:

And look at the minaret on the new National Mosque! It’s as tall as many of the taller buildings! Do you think they will have an elevator? Will the muezzins be able to call out the call to prayer after climbing 37 stories?

December 17, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Building, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Photos, Qatar, Weather | 5 Comments