Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Glorious View in Qatar

Yesterday I was invited to an all-gals party, and normally, I don’t accept any outside invitations on Friday, which is AdventureMan’s only day off the entire week, but this date was special, and I went, and I had a wonderful afternoon, full of laughs and good friendships.

When I walked in, I had a moment’s nostalgia for Kuwait, and my endless view from my mustard colored tower – this woman had the Qatar equivalent – the view that goes forever.

The windows were open, the breezes were blowing, the laughter was infectious and the food was delicious – what is not to love?

Only six years ago, when I first came to Qatar (almost seven years now) the building from which I took these photos didn’t exist. Looking north, only a few low buildings, the Intercon and the Ritz Carleton existed – and now, it’s almost like another Corniche in the making out at The Pearl. The speed with which this has happened is breathtaking.

November 21, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Beauty, Building, Doha, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Living Conditions, Photos, Qatar | 4 Comments

He turns a desert into pools of water

One of today’s readings in The Lectionary are these verses from a much longer reading, Psalm 107. When I read these lines, I can’t help thinking how this very dull and flat land, Qatar, this little thumb sticking up into the Gulf, has greened, how the oil and gas have served to green this land, to change its face, and how much money is flowing out from this country to many other countries of the world.

All those of us from far away countries who labor here are benefitting from these springs of wealth, sending money home.

33He turns rivers into a desert,
springs of water into thirsty ground,
34a fruitful land into a salty waste,
because of the wickedness of its inhabitants.
35He turns a desert into pools of water,
a parched land into springs of water.
36And there he lets the hungry live,
and they establish a town to live in;
37they sow fields, and plant vineyards,
and get a fruitful yield.
38By his blessing they multiply greatly,
and he does not let their cattle decrease.

39When they are diminished and brought low
through oppression, trouble, and sorrow,
40he pours contempt on princes
and makes them wander in trackless wastes;
41but he raises up the needy out of distress,
and makes their families like flocks.
42The upright see it and are glad;
and all wickedness stops its mouth.
43Let those who are wise give heed to these things,
and consider the steadfast love of the Lord.

For my Christian readers, Muslims also use the Psalms as holy readings –

“The Qur’an (Surah An-Nisa 4:163) states “and to David We gave the Psalms”. Therefore, Islam confirms the Psalms as being inspired of God.”

Did you know that?

November 21, 2009 Posted by | Blogging, Cross Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Interconnected, Random Musings, Spiritual | Leave a comment

Who Knew? Pumpkin Shortage, Pumpkin Pie

“Have you heard about the great pumpkin shortage?” asked my friend Grammy. I think I snorted. I thought she was kidding.

No. No, she was not kidding. Today I found this on AOL News where you can read the whole story by clicking on the blue type.

Pumpkin Shortage Means No Pie for Thanksgiving
Posted Nov 18th 2009 2:30PM by Susan Wagner

Planning on serving pumpkin pie next week for Thanksgiving? You might want to find a back up — maybe pecan pie, or some spicy gingerbread. What’s wrong with pumpkin pie? Nothing — except that there aren’t any pumpkins available this year.

Rainy conditions in the midwest this fall have washed out the pumpkin crop, leaving retailers at a loss for canned pie filling. This week, the LA Times reported that Nestlé, which controls 85% of the pumpkin crop for canning, was all out of pumpkins. The company issued a surprise apology, saying that the rain had destroyed the remains of an already-small crop. Nestlé plans to stop shipping canned pumpkin after Thanksgiving, and the company says that once this season’s supply is gone, there won’t be any more pumpkins available for canning until August 2010.

Don’t lose hope!

For one thing, here in Qatar, there doesn’t appear to be any shortage of pumpkin – or, well, squash. It tastes like pumpkin, but looks more like old fashioned pumpkins, not like the generic vanilla USA sugar pumpkin.

My beautiful French friend’s nose got that pinched French look when she heard about pumpkin pies made with canned pumpkin.

“Why would you do that?” she asked in genuine bewilderment. “All you have to do is to cook the pumpkin pieces until they are soft, then use them as you would canned pumpkin, except that it’s fresh, and has no added chemicals.”

HER pumpkin pie was out of this world, made with fresh pumpkins and her special spice mix:

2 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 1/2 tablespoon ground ginger ( or1 tablespoon of grated fresh ginger)
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon mace (or ground nutmeg)
1 pinch anis seeds ground
1 cup dark brown sugar

Ground all the pieces together than add the sugar, keep it in a closed lid jar.

Her filling : 2 pounds fresh pumpkin flesh, steamed, mashed and cooled down, 1 cup of packed brown sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, half a cup of the spice mix.

Her pie was amazing. I would bake at 350F/180C for about an hour; it makes a big pie.

November 20, 2009 Posted by | Doha, ExPat Life, Food, Living Conditions, Qatar, Recipes, Relationships | 7 Comments

Brass Band Concert Tomorrow, Suq Al Waqif

Thanks, Grammy! If you have ever had an interest in exploring the Souqs, now is the time. The weather is perfect, nights are breezy and warm but not hot, there are a zillion good restaurants to choose from, AND tomorrow night is a very cool concert:

November 18, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Arts & Handicrafts, Community, Doha, Eating Out, Entertainment, Events, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Public Art, Qatar | Leave a comment

Only Ten Generations

We were talking about marriage prospects, and I mentioned one young man.

She hesitated, then told me “we don’t marry with this family.”

“Why not?” I asked her. “He’s handsome, and kind, and I am told that they are the richest family in Qatar.”

“They are Iranian,” she said shortly.

“Iranian?” I asked. “They are Qatteri! They have been here more than ten generations!”

She grinned at me.

“It’s not enough,” she said. “They are still Iranian.”

November 18, 2009 Posted by | Cross Cultural, Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Humor, Interconnected, Iran, Living Conditions, Marriage, Mating Behavior, Qatar, Relationships, Women's Issues | 19 Comments

Breakfast in the Souks

“I need a hundred camel spoons,” my friend said, and since we all sort of think on the same track, no one looked at me like I was crazy when I said “let’s all meet for breakfast, shop when the souks open and leave.”

In fact, they didn’t look at me like I was crazy for two reasons. One was that we really sort of think alike, and meeting for breakfast is just the kind of thing we don’t do often, but it is a good time to grab some time together in lives that get very busy later in the day.

The second reason is that we are all introverts, and three of us were doing most of this arranging by e-mail. We’re not really phone chatters, although every now and then we will dial, but it tends to be the exception rather than the rule.

The weather is perfect. You would be amazed how lovely and peaceful the souks are early in the morning. There are customers in the restaurants, but it is a very laid back time of the day.

For a significant sum – I can’t remember how much, but I think I remember like 80 QR – you can park in VIP parking. Me, I was there an hour, and paid QR4 (just a little over a dollar) I just wanted you to see the difference from plain old everyday common folk parking and the VIP parking (above.) (Those signs in front of the stores straight ahead say VIP Parking, and at night they are roped off with red velvet ropes)

We find a shady table and order breakfast, across the street guys are into their early morning hubbly bubbly, there are people sweeping up to be sure everything is Disney-tidy, and it really is. As we are sipping at our coffee, the mounted police come by. Their horses are gorgeous, with high bushy tails and beautiful dressings in Qatar’s blood red and white colors.

What I like even better is the police-riders. They are handsomely dressed, and they ride like cowboys – look at that posture, the way real horsemen ride, with that cowboy slump and the weight firm in the saddle. The horses aren’t big horses, but they have beautiful bones. I wonder where they stable these horses in the souqs?

On to find the Yemeni Honey Man, relocated from Karabaa / Electricity Street. The police help us find him, hidden back next to a metal kitchen crafter, and we see he has other old customers who have also found him. His new shop is shiny and clean, with great shelves for displaying his beautiful baskets from the Asir.

“Big troubles” he says, and I know he is right, many people are being evacuated from that area while the Saudis and Yemenis have problems near the border. One of his customers communicates to us with gestures that in our new baskets, we must pack our jewelry in the bottom, then our abayas, and then food, oud or honey on top, so people won’t know where we are hiding our jewelry.

My Kuwaiti friend told me that in his memory, before oil, people kept all their clothes in baskets like this, folded neatly. They didn’t have a lot of clothes, he told me, and then there were other baskets specially woven to hold food stuffs, and to keep the insects off the food. Those baskets are not the same as these sturdy baskets, the more local Kuwait and Qatteri baskets are woven from palm fronds, I believe, and you can still find them in the more traditional stores at the Souq al Waqef, behind where the Bedouin women sell foods on Thursday night and sometimes on Fridays.

November 17, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Beauty, Community, Doha, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Friends & Friendship, Kuwait, Law and Order, Living Conditions, Local Lore, Shopping | 7 Comments

Mom’s Fruit Cake in Qatar

Life has gotten busy, and somehow November is here and I haven’t made my fruitcakes. I need to fix that! For those of you who think fruitcakes are a joke – my Mom’s fruitcake has a secret ingredient – chocolate. Even people who don’t like fruitcake love this fruitcake.

I am in Qatar – I have brandy. I have rum. No, I don’t drink hard liquor, but oh, they do make my fruitcakes tastier. Today, I will soak the raisins in brandy overnight, so they will be ready to go tomorrow!

I am reprinting this recipe for those of you who would like to give fruitcake a try.

Mom’s Fruit Cake

This is the original recipe. I remember cutting the dates and prunes with scissors when I was little; now you can buy dates and prunes without pits and chop them in the food processor – a piece of cake!

1 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup lard or butter
1 T. cinnamon
1 t. cloves
3 Tablespoons chocolate powder
1/4 cup jelly
1 cup seeded raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup candied citron
1/2 cup cut prunes
1/2 cup cut dates

Put all in a pan on stove and bring to a boil. Boil for three minutes. Let cool. Add:

2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
Flavor with lemon

Bake at 350° in loaf pans for one hour. Makes 2 normal bread loaf sized cakes.

My variations: I put in about three times the fruit, the difference primarily in the candied citron – I prefer using whole candied cherries, because they are so pretty when the loafs are cut. This recipe doubles, or quadruples with no problems.

Pans: Mom used to line all the pans with brown paper and grease the paper. I grease the pans, then dust with more of the chocolate powder. Use a good quality chocolate, not cocoa. When the cakes come out of the oven, let them cool for ten minutes, loosen them with a knife, then they will shake out easily. Let continue to cool until they are totally cool, then wrap in plastic wrap, with several layers, then foil, then seal in a sealable plastic bag. Let them age a couple months in a corner of your refrigerator. I make mine around Halloween, and serve the first one at Thanksgiving.

I never make these the same any two years in a row.

You know how raisins get all dried out and taste yucky in fruitcakes? The night before you intend to make the fruitcakes, take all the raisins you intend to use (depending on how many fruitcakes you intend to make) and put them in a glass container. Pour brandy over them, to cover. Microwave just to the boiling point. Let stand in the microwave overnight.

The next day, you can drain that brandy and use it in a stew or something, and in the meanwhile, you now have plump, juicy raisins to use in your fruitcake, and just a hint of brandy flavor. Yummmm!

November 16, 2009 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Christmas, Cultural, Doha, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Food, Living Conditions, Recipes | 2 Comments

Big Change; No Smoking

Sometimes change happens, and it happens so slowly or so subtly that you don’t really realize it has happened until something draws it to your attention.

Kuwait blogger Touche, one of my old virtual-blogging-buddies commented on a driving post, wondering about the baby steps it takes to change a mentality. The subject was driving, and I know he was right, I am writing “endlessly” about how annoyed I get by the lack of civility in driving here.

What I am not writing about, I noticed, is how annoying it is to be breathing other people’s smoke while I am eating.

Because it is not happening.

Who knew?

When we lived in Qatar before, people would sit right under the NO SMOKING signs and light up.

I saw things change in Kuwait. From the time we got there to the time we left, there were fewer and fewer times someone would light up in a restaurant.

Things CHANGED.

Expectations changed. I am guessing the smokers felt pressure, not just from the community, but also from family members. I don’t know if there are fewer smokers; I am inclined to think not, because I can see them smoking in their own cars. Hey – as long as I do not have to breathe their smoke, it’s fine with me, it’s their choice.

But the significant thing is – I didn’t believe it could ever change. And it did change, and it changed faster than I would have thought possible.

So I have hope for the driving issue. I think it starts with seat belts. I think if Mothers and wives start buckling up, and buckling up their children, that will be a first step. I think if there is an emphasis on driving manners, things could change. It’s a mind-shift before a behavior shift, an awareness of safety and an awareness of our interconnectedness. One thing I have seen in the Gulf is that parents raise their children to have good manners; manners are an important consideration also when considering a mate. If you take the driving problem as a manners problem, and emphasize the need for good manners on the road, maybe there is a possibility of change . . .

There is another area where I think change can happen – throwing things out the car window. If it becomes a commonly held value that throwing trash / cigarette butts / food wrappers out the window is bad behavior, I think it will stop. Maybe hand out car trash bags to raise awareness?

Have you seen the change in smoking? What I am noticing is that my dinners are no longer ruined by someone nearby lighting up. I don’t smell smoke in the malls. I don’t smell smoke in the airports. Pretty amazing, don’t you think?

November 16, 2009 Posted by | Blogging, Civility, Community, Doha, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Interconnected, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Social Issues, Values | 5 Comments

Open Window

For the last few nights, AdventureMan and I have been sleeping without the air conditioner – it has cooled enough that we can do that.

This morning, for the first time, I have the window open in the upstairs lounge where I do my computer things first thing every morning.

When we lived in Kuwait, I missed the open windows. We lived on the tenth floor, and there were no screens. I couldn’t trust the Qatteri Cat not to jump out the window. He is smart in a lot of ways, but not so smart when it comes to windows and being ten stories up.

It is migration time, and our gardens are full of birds. I remember seeing flocks of parakeets, wild bright green parakeets one time, it totally thrilled my heart. Just being able to sit here with the windows open – it doesn’t take much to make me happy. 🙂

Nov 16, 2009

November 16, 2009 Posted by | Beauty, Doha, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Qatar | 4 Comments

Parking Mayhem

This is a view trying to leave the Souq al Waqef around nine o’clock on a date-night Thursday evening. There are two exit booths. Maybe one of the cashiers needed to go drink tea and never came back; only one booth is open. Those who are too important (or think they are) to wait in line edge, edge, edge slowly in front of you. It took forever to get out.
00ParkingMayhem

You will note that there are two lines formed to exit – through one booth!

Some of these guys are so important that in trying to get into your line, they block traffic in the oncoming lanes, too, so then things really get gridlocked.

The good news is that parking is relatively inexpensive – less than a dollar for an hour, maybe up to a buck fifty, two bucks for four – five hours. The drawback is that the system really isn’t working smoothly yet.

November 15, 2009 Posted by | Adventure, Doha, ExPat Life, Living Conditions, Qatar | Leave a comment