Here There and Everywhere

Expat wanderer

Widad Kawar’s Passion

Many years ago, in another life, I was honored to visit the collection of Widad Kawar in Amman, Jordan. I was so young, and so completely in awe of Widad, who had made it a life mission to collect traditional clothing of the area, Palestinian, which was her own heritage, and nomadic.

It was like being a little girl and getting to play dress up as we oooohed and aahhhed over these gorgeous old dresses and head dresses. I had no idea she had become an institution, until I began to research a style of hijab I had seen there which I found very elegant.

LIttle Diamond, these are for you. They are from several sources, including The Arab Heritage site on Widad Kawar which I urge you to peruse when you have a spare hour or half a day or . . . a lifetime. She has created a monumental body of work with her passion for preserving these fabulous textiles.

From Widad Kawar’s collection: North Jordan
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Shows a little of the glitz – this one is from Salt, photo from Widad Kawar’s collection:salt_headcover.jpg

I love this photo. The woman has a plain version of the headdress, and is wearing a double dress . . . and her husband is holding her hand!
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June 1, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Biography, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Family Issues, Friends & Friendship, Jordan, Living Conditions, Photos | 7 Comments

Blog Complaints

My family and friends outside Kuwait tell me I don’t publish enough Kuwait photos. These two are for you, and I will try to work on this. 😉 These are from a recent trip to the Al Kout mall in Fehaheel, just south of Kuwait.

Ladies leaving the Al Kout Mall
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I think this mosque is one of the most beautiful I have seen:
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Is this not one of the most beautiful Starbucks you have seen? It sits on overlooking a small marina. Greetings to all my Seattle friends.
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June 1, 2007 Posted by | Blogging, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Lumix, Middle East, Photos | 8 Comments

Palestinian Embroidery

There is a richness in the textile heritage of this region, the clothing, the embellishments, the techniques . . . influences from Africa, from India, from Europe all meeting and blending in the most spectacular ways. This is textile heaven!

Today I was trying to find an example of a traditional Jordanian head-dress so I could show Little Diamond but instead I found this blog Arabesque Rhapsody and her beautiful article on everyday Palestinian embroidery. When you look at these women, wearing dresses that took hours, days and months to create, it is a feast for the eyes.

May 31, 2007 Posted by | Arts & Handicrafts, Blogging, Communication, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Middle East, Uncategorized, Women's Issues | Leave a comment

Rare Case of Lying

In today’s Kuwait Times is an article I found utterly hilarious – WHAT WAS HE THINKING????

Exam Fraud Discovered

Kuwait: The director of a secondary school in Khaitan discovered a first of a kind cheating case wehre an unidentified young man sat for a Quran exam instead of one of the school students, reported Alam Alyawm, noting that being unable to identify the young man and suspecting him, the director requested an ID to verify his true identity.

Sources said that the examined young man confusingly showed a driving license belonging to the student he had substituted. Realizing his fraud had been discovered, the young man fled the school leaving his exam paper and driving license behind.

Upon contacting the real student, he told the police that his driving license had been missing and that he had lodged a report with the police in this regard. Further investigations are in progress.

Uh . . . yeh, I bet they are. 🙂

I am sorry, this just gives me such a giggle. Cheating on a Quran exam? ? ?

Before I wrote the above, I had to do a lot of thinking . . . like the bible, our book, does not say “thou shalt not lie” as one of the 10 commandments, neither is it one of the two great commandments in our New Testament (love the one true God before all others, love your neighbor as yourself), so what does the bible say about lying? Fortuntately for us, there is Google, and the internet, and you can click on What the Bible has to say about lying if you want the specifics. It reminded me that Satan is called “The Father of All Lies.” *shiver* That’s good enough for me.

There are several places in the bible, however, when even good people lie, like because they are scared or because they don’t want to face the wrath of God. One is Sarah, when the messengers tell her she is going to have a baby and she is something like 80 or 100 years old and she laughs, she can’t help it, Sarah laughs. And God says “Sarah! Are you laughing at me! I can do anything!” and Sarah lies and says “oh no, Lord, I wasn’t laughing.”

Since the Bible and the Quran spring from the same spiritual source, I am willing to bet the Quran also has a few things to say about lying and dishonesty, and fraud, and how you can’t fool Allah or cheat him.

Anyone out there willing to step up and educate us?

May 31, 2007 Posted by | Community, Crime, Cross Cultural, Family Issues, Humor, Kuwait, Lies, News, Social Issues, Uncategorized | 5 Comments

Al Qaeda Fed Up With Ground Zero Construction Delays

If I knew how to embed video replays in my blog, I wouldn’t have to make you click on Al Qaeda Fed Up with Ground Zero Construction Delay to watch a video interview with two critics of the Ground Zero construction so far, saying almost identical things, but with a twist, oh what a twist.

The video interview is hysterically funny. Give yourself a grin for the day. It’s from one of my favorite websites: The Onion.

May 30, 2007 Posted by | Communication, Community, Counter-terrorism, Crime, Cross Cultural, Fiction, Humor, Joke, Language, Lies, News, Political Issues, Social Issues | Leave a comment

Heat Lagging

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The heat has hit me like a building crashing down around me. It changes everything I do. Somehow I don’t remember last year being so hot, but I know it was, and I think I just didn’t go out very often. Now that I am driving all over town, man, the heat KILLS me.

I just checked Weather Underground for Kuwait and the temperatures (Fahrenheit for my US readers) is going to be between 107 and 114 for the next five days. Kuwait DOES cool down at night more than Doha, but if you are outside after nine in the morning, you feel like a steak thrown into a hot frying pan to sear. It is sizzling hot!

I find myself trying to get everything done I need to get done early in the day. Sometimes when I get home, get the groceries put away – I need a NAP! I feel like I’ve run a marathon! It’s embarrassing to be so effected by the heat, but I am.

If I have had things going on and don’t get a nap, then by nine my head is nodding. I can be in the middle of a great book, a thrilling movie or a nail biting tv program . . . it doesn’t matter. Sleep calls me like a siren; I can’t resist, I crash. Around three in the morning, having had six hours of great sleep – Hey! here I am! wide awake!

Even my husband, born in the heat of the south, who gets cold easily, even my husband who never complains about the heat – told me this morning he hated the thought of having to walk today from here to there because of the heat. I can hear him wheezing a little at night. We no longer have the dust storm of earlier this week, but the residual dust has made breathing a little harder. I hear a lot of my friends wheezing mildly, too.

It’s just like jet lagging. I’ve got to get it under control, and I’m at a loss. I think most of my friends cope with the heat – by leaving! Others stay inside most of the summer – even the thought of meeting up with a friend for coffee during the day just seems like too much trouble, when I think of the hot hot hot walk from car to air conditioned mall or restaurant!

How do you cope with the heat?

Does your life change?

Do your hours change?

May 30, 2007 Posted by | Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Middle East, Relationships, Weather | 7 Comments

Cat Meat Rumors Refuted (Ho ho ho ho ho)

Front page of todays Kuwait Times is this article:

KUWAIT: A ministry of Commerce official denied rumors that a local restaurant has been closed for selling cat meat. According to Ali Baghli, assistant undersecretary for commercial supervision affairs at the Ministry of Commerce, no violation has been registered against the Arabic restaurant in the Jahra governate as of yet. . . .

My comment – So here is what we know for sure:

A ministry official says the restaurant has not been closed for selling cat meat.
He says no violations has been registered AS YET.

He does not say the restaurant was not selling cat meat; he is saying the restaurant was not closed for selling cat meat.

What was interesting, is that both the Kuwait Times and Arab Times, when they reported this cat meat restaurant closing, said that because of connections in the government, this restaurant was unlikely to stay closed.

It is not unlike Make This Case Go Away where two youths are caught with a maid they have abducted and raped, they fight the arresting officer and bite him on the hand, they confess to what they have done . . . and no violation is registered, because the police officer is pressured by his superiors to drop the case.

It’s not like your next schwarma is guaranteed not to contain fresh cat meat. It’s only guaranteed not prosecuted.

If I sound angry, I am. Police and law enforcement officials are supposed to protect the public – that’s you and me. When the system is broken so badly that laws are not enforced against the transgressors, and worse, when courageous policement are punished for doing their job, it is a very very sorry state of affairs.

And I am convinced that God has a very special place in hell for those who abuse the trust the public places in them.

I sure wouldn’t eat any schwarma in Jahra.

May 28, 2007 Posted by | Bureaucracy, Communication, Community, Cooking, Crime, Cross Cultural, Customer Service, Eating Out, ExPat Life, Health Issues, Hygiene, Kuwait, Language, Lies, Living Conditions, Locard Exchange Principal, Middle East, News, Shopping, Social Issues | Leave a comment

“How’s That Working For You?”

I love watching language shift and segue like the waves at sea. One moment there will be a gust of adjectives (“cool” “hot!” “baaaadddd!” “fly”) and another there will be typhoon of localisms, like the Valley Gal phenomenon, and from time time time, apparently quiet times. If you are watching closely, however, you will see the waters twitch and a new word or phrase surface, create a few ripples, and then most of the time, fade away.

“How’s that working for you?” is a phrase that doesn’t mean what it seems to mean. Yes, it is a very neutral way of asking how a person is doing.

Underneath, however, it implies disbelief.

Language is so subtle. It’s one of the reasons I will never be fluent in French, or German, or Arabic – I can skim the surface, I can even dive beneath the surface, but there are depths that you have to be a native to plumb.

“How’s that working for you?” keeps the conversation going when an addict defends his addiction.

“How’s that working for you?” keeps the door open when your daughter defends an inappropriate relationship.

“How’s that working for you?” is the response to someone with big talk of big dreams who never gets organized enough to put the dreams into action, but wants credit, although nothing was accomplished.

“How’s that working for you?” is a compassionate response to someone who is lying to herself about an important issue and you don’t want to burst her balloon.

Most people ask the question when there are clear signs that it is NOT working. It returns the ball the the court of the person who needs to deal with the problem.

A person who is not willing to face the problem will respond “Great!” The appropriate response to “great” is “Glad to hear it!”

(“Glad to hear it!” used in this context means “I don’t believe a word of it.”)

If someone asks you “how’s that working for you?” they have sent you a signal that it’s time to re-examine what you’re doing.

May 23, 2007 Posted by | Communication, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Language, Lies, Words | 4 Comments

Speaking English

A few months ago I made a mistake. When the complex management asked for suggestions, I told them that it did not make me feel secure that the guards on duty did not, as promised, speak English.

Ever since, I have been the focus of a lot of attention.

“Oh Madam, I am so happy to see you!” gushes one guard, and when I ask about his family, he looks at me blankly.

“Good morning, madame, yes fine, thank you” greets the guard before I have asked him how he is.

Someone is teaching them, and they are actually very happy to be learning some phrases, and they all want to be sure I know they are speaking English.

So yesterday, when a series of bulbs were replaced, when the hariss showed me the brilliant results, I said “Cool!”

And under his breath, the Nepali assistant said, with my exact inflection, “Cool!”

And I could hear him practicing, as he left. I am wondering if I will be greeted with a chorus of “cool!”s as I leave this morning.

May 21, 2007 Posted by | Communication, Community, Cross Cultural, ExPat Life, Humor, Kuwait, Language, Living Conditions | 5 Comments

Retro Metro

Getting ready to open at Villagio is one of my favorite places – Paul’s. When you can’t get to France, you can at least get to Paul’s. No, no little pichet of good wine with your salad, but truly great croissants, tartes and salads, and I am a great fan of their salmon fettucine.

And look what they are doing at Villagio! Look at the Art Nouveau wrought-iron trim on the shade! It looks like the Sacre Coeur metro stop! When it opens, it will be out in the open, a la Marina Mall, very French sidewalk cafe/restaurant. Unlike Al Kout Mall, this one has no outside area, tant pis!

When the weather outside is blistering hot, these malls are the only comfortable place to be. Thank God they are done with so much imagination.

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May 20, 2007 Posted by | Cross Cultural, Customer Service, Doha, Eating Out, ExPat Life, France, Kuwait, Living Conditions, Lumix, Middle East, Photos, Qatar, Shopping, Social Issues, Weather | Leave a comment